2.2K EOL resistors in the walls, HAI needs 1K.

I concluded that for simple residential use the change of the famous 'nail in the wire' is not worth the effort of messing with the EOLs.

If it ever happens I'll see if i can easilly fix it, if not just replace the sensor with a wireless. Don't get me wrong, I don't like the idea of wirelss security, but hacking open your walls and spending hour is just not worth it IMHO.
 
Hi, As a prof. owner/installer, I can say eol's are a pain in the butt. We are getting ready for a large upgrade, and will have to locate and replace about 2000 eols. Trust me its not fun, It should take a few months. The last upgrade this size took myself and 4 others 4 months. The reason manf. of products don't offer adjustable eol values is they don't want there product removed without some cost, Thus hindering the replacement of there system. In large upgrades, The eol's are a major part of the labor cost(up to 100K) in some cases. My feeling is program them out or put them in the panel. Don't get me wrong, The money is good, But there are many other installs to complete. If there are senstive areas, Use them. At most sites, The guards get an alarm, clear it, and move on without ever checking on it. As for a trouble on a device, they just disable it because they are tired of looking at it. It takes a tech. to find it, reenable and then correct it, If he feels like it, because nobody ever reports it.

Just my thoughts.....

Mike

But as an installer, I would think using EOL reisistors that have been installed properly take a lot of liability away from the job. In the above scenerios where the users ignore or disable the system, at least they are to blame. On the other hand, if EOL resistors were not installed (or installed improperly) and there was a problem with the wiring that went unnoticed, I would think there could be some liability on the installing company should a loss occur. But I'm not an attorney or an installer, so perhaps my assumptions are off base.

Of course if you are DIYing your own system, then it's your liability either way, so not using them is fine. On the other hand, how many times are you going to be changing out a system that you DIY installed. I'm sure it happens sometimes, but most people are going to install a system that they plan on living with until they move. Then if the next owners want to change out the system, it's their decision.

I will be installing my ELK M1 soon (already have the unit), and I still haven't decided if I'm going to be using EOL resistors or not. I really want to, but haven't decided if it is worth all the extra work.
 
I concluded that for simple residential use the change of the famous 'nail in the wire' is not worth the effort of messing with the EOLs.

Fair enough but then how do you handle installing a NO device like a smoke/heat detector or drivway sensor? If you decide to disable the EOLs as I understand it you can no longer install any NO devices.

CB
 
Again, I haven't done this yet with my ELK, but I believe you can enable/disable the EOL resistors zone by zone. So you can disable them for all your zones with window and door contacts, and enable them on the zone(s) that have smoke detectors or other devices that require them.
 
Again, I haven't done this yet with my ELK, but I believe you can enable/disable the EOL resistors zone by zone. So you can disable them for all your zones with window and door contacts, and enable them on the zone(s) that have smoke detectors or other devices that require them.

I'm not sure if the HAI can do this - it seems to me from my reading it's all or none with HAI...
 
I concluded that for simple residential use the change of the famous 'nail in the wire' is not worth the effort of messing with the EOLs.

Fair enough but then how do you handle installing a NO device like a smoke/heat detector or drivway sensor? If you decide to disable the EOLs as I understand it you can no longer install any NO devices.

CB

I havent messed with driveway sensors, but generally for smokes you shoudl be able to access the unit and put the EOL in. When i said ' No mess with EOL' i really means for the window and door switches. Where is easy to do there is certainly no downside to using EOL at the end of the line.

Within the ELK you can definetely set each zone to NO, CO, EOL supervised, disabled. So using them some places but not all shouldnt be an issue. Don't know if the HAI can do the same.
 
Well, tonight I got the official reply from a technical support supervisor at HAI about my EOL situation, here it is below. I'm actually kind of relieved at this point as there is only one thing I can do to fix the problem now.

It appears that the Application Directory is incorrect. The addition of resistance to allow the zone to be reflected properly is not valid when using the LT - the application "should" actually omit the LT from the list.

The only way to allow the devices to report properly on the LT is to replace the existing resistors with specific 1K resistors.

Thank you for your interest and use of HAI and our award winning line of home automation products!
 
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