Best way to mount this Wiznet ethernet->serial board?

S

signal15

Senior Member
I bought one of these:
 
http://www.wiznet.co.kr/sub_modules/en/product/Product_Detail.asp?cate1=5&cate2=8&cate3=0&pid=1104
 
I can't use the rails that you slide the card into in my Elk cabinet, because it has ports on both sides, and the serial plugs would stick up too high anyway.
 
Any ideas for mounting this?  I will probably have to mount it outside my Elk cabinet because I don't have enough room to lay it flat.  Does someone make some nice universal enclosures for things like this?
 
BraveSirRobbin said:
Things like this are what the original enclosure are good for.  Can you mount it near your Elk?
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/blog/41/entry-392-wiring-closet/
Click to expand...
 
I can mount it near the Elk cabinet, but not in it.  I have the big Elk cabinet, but it's full.  I don't really want to get another because this would probably be the only thing going into it.  
 
Although, I just realized that I have a bunch of old network gear and embedded devices that I'm no longer going to use.  I might be able to find one with the right size case and just gut it for this board instead.
 
It looks like it could fit in an ELK PB1 project box.
 
pb1.jpg
 
RAL said:
It looks like it could fit in an ELK PB1 project box.
 
pb1.jpg
Click to expand...
 
 
Hah!  I have one of those.  It fits, but just barely.  It covers the holes on the sides for the mounting screws, but just a little.  I still might be able to squeeze a small screw by it for mounting.  
 
Thanks for the idea!
 
That looks like a convenient, low cost box for lots of small items.  The elk site description is:
 
White, general purpose, paintable box for housing wire splices, relay modules, etc. Mounts to a single gang electrical box. Features 6 removable wire entry slide tabs which are compatible with surface raceway conduit. Mounting hardware included.
 
I wouldn't normally be mounting it on a electric box and would bring the (low voltage) wires out the sides without surface raceway.  I didn't find any detail of the "wire entry slide tabs".  Anyone have any better pictures?  I am thinking "slide" might be a typo for "side". 
 
> I didn't find any detail of the "wire entry slide tabs".
 
There are 2 rectangular breakout tabs on each of the long sides of the cover, and one breakout tab on each of the short sides (for a total of 6).
Each tab is 1" wide and 3/4" high.
 
The Elk doesn't have a 5V output.....
 
How about using a Mier instrument box? Even the plastic ones by Arlington would be an option. From the big box stores, something like a 6X6 box would also work.
 
DELInstallations said:
The Elk doesn't have a 5V output.....
 
How about using a Mier instrument box? Even the plastic ones by Arlington would be an option. From the big box stores, something like a 6X6 box would also work.
Click to expand...
 
 
I mounted it in the Elk project box with some double stick foam tape and cut out holes in the sides of the cover for the ports.  I'm have a camera power supply with 4 screw terminals on it which provides 5v, and I'm using that one power supply to power a mixer, an amp, the Elk ethernet expander, and this thing.
 
I have seen some creative electricians take and cut down expanding anchors like the yellow or blue ones sold at the big box stores and use the cut parts as a standoff with a screw in to the rear panel.
 
My personal preference is to avoid the sticky backed standoffs. In time, I usually come back to a can that has the circuit board floating in space because the sticky doesn't hold.
 
I've never had a problem with sticky backed stand offs, but then I clean the surface and buy from high volume distributors so I don't get product that has been sitting in someone's garage for 5 years.
 
I have the same concern with the sticky's as Gat.
 
I'm dealing in very high volume and distributors and give enough heat and time they usually end up failing about 9/10 times. Clean the cabinet(s) with alcohol...they fail. Stick them on normal painted surfaces, they fail. Stick them on paper or cardboard, they're ready for the second coming.
 
For a circuit board I'd go with metal or nylon standoffs, but it depends on what the unit is being mounted in/on.
 
DELInstallations said:
I have the same concern with the sticky's as Gat.
 
I'm dealing in very high volume and distributors and give enough heat and time they usually end up failing about 9/10 times. Clean the cabinet(s) with alcohol...they fail. Stick them on normal painted surfaces, they fail. Stick them on paper or cardboard, they're ready for the second coming.
 
For a circuit board I'd go with metal or nylon standoffs, but it depends on what the unit is being mounted in/on.
Click to expand...
 
I think it depends on what brand of standoffs you're getting.  I bought 3 huge Hoffman type 12 electrical disconnect enclosures to use for cabinets in my garage.  I got them from a company that had a design change on a project, and they were sick of staring at them on their shop floor for 5+ years.  They had a ton of these standoffs on the panels in the back of the enclosures.  Even after sitting 5+ years, I had a hell of a time getting them all off.  It was thin foam tape, but they were on there like concrete.  I had to chisel each one off using a big hammer and a couple of whacks.
 
As a side note, since I moved, they've been laying down on my garage floor since my new garage doors weren't tall enough to get them in without laying them down first.  I haven't had a chance to get enough guys over to set them up, they weigh around 1900lbs each.  :)
 
FWIW, you can get the nylon washers at Home Depot and use them as spacers. 
 
I've had decent results with the Elk double sided foam tape - i think one thing has fallen off - the others would rip the foam before the glue would come undone (not sure why the one XSP came off - it's still hanging; I haven't looked).
 
For the OP's question - this is another reason why we should all have 3D printers!
 
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