Better way to temporarily install EOL resistors

[signal15]

The ADT system I ripped out had all of the EOL resistors at the panel.  I know this isn't the way to go long term, they should be at the sensor end.  But, in order to get my Elk in and working, I put them at the panel side for now until I can get around to digging out all of the door and window sensors.
 
I crimped the resistor onto one wire for each zone using those little white crimp connectors that come with the Elk keypads.  It looks horrible, and it's pretty fragile with a bunch of them tangled together.  Is there a better way to get the resistor in there besides soldering inline and putting shrinktube on it?  Does anyone make something with the resistor built in that I can just crimp on?
 
Eventually I'll do it the right way.

 

[pete_c]

It wouldn't look as tangled if the little crimp connectors are on the sensors side of the wires.
 
Such that yes you can crimp the EOL's at the end of the line instead of soldering and using heat shrink tubing.
 
Personally here have used my little portable soldering torch inside and outside soldering the EOL's and heat shrink tubing them.
 
In 10 years I have had only one come apart on me and it was my fault for running the wires too tight around a door frame which settled a bit and stretched the leads until they broke.  It would have been a similiar thing if the wires / EOL were crimped.
 
It was a DIY here and I did baby steps doing one or two zones at a time.  In a new home post build with the prewire done; I did all of them in some 3-4 days.  The wires were labeled and alreay run to the alarm panel location.   I did the sliding glass doors (one sensor on each side) loops in the panel as everything was home run.  The ends were tight fits and the footprint was small with the soldered on EOLs (well in my mind).

 

[ano]

EOL resistors perform absolutely no function when in the panel, and the only reason I see that they would be used there is if the panel did not have a way to turn their use off.  But in the ELK you can turn the function off. 
 
Also, are you absolutely positive that the ADT alarm uses the exact EOL values as the Elk?  If they are close, it might not initially cause a false alarm, but over time, your just asking for trouble. 
 
Its best to NOT use an EOL to start and turn that function off in the ELK, then when you add them, you can turn it on.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I agree, just don't use EOL's.  I don't use them in my home with my Elk install.

 

[pete_c]

Yup; here initially with the HAI OPII panel I started to use the non EOL option on the board; then went back the first ones installed and put in EOLs.
 
I have had a similiar issue purchasing wrong values of EOL resistors with the HAI OPII panel. 
 
I have seen a "few" post alarm installs where the eols are in the panel.  Typically its never questioned because its a "professionally" installed alarm panel.
 
Its a counterproductive shortcut and nulls out the reason for the installation of EOLs in the first place.
 
The discussion of using EOLs or not using EOLs is similiar to a political or religous discussion and can / has illicited some interesting reading.

 

[signal15]

I didn't use them at all on some of the zones because I ran out of crimp connectors.  To be clear, I AM using the 2.2k resistors for the Elk, not the 2k resistors that were on the Ademco that was there.

 

[pete_c]

Thinking with the HAI OPII panel and relating to EOL's its an all or nothing thing. 
 
Personally here purchased a bunch and left them in the can in one little plastic bag mixing them and never looking at the color bands; which was a mistake.

 

[jpmargis]

I'm in "leave them out" camp at least for most residential installations.

 

[Neurorad]

I bought a Dolphin-branded ratcheting crimp tool, for $30, to be used with the Dolphin-brand gel-filled B-connectors.  I think that would be good.  B-connector solution to adding resistors was rec'd by DELInstallations, when I said I didn't want to solder, in another recent thread:
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/25470-eolr-wiring-details-water-sensor/?p=203593
 
DEL said he uses a different brand of ratcheting crimp tool: "I use a [Thomas and Betts] 112M, but Klein, Channelock, Dewalt, GB, Ideal, and almost all the big players make some variation of them."
 
I wanted to be sure the crimp dimension was appropriate, for the Dolphin-brand connectors, so I bought a Dolphin-branded crimper.
 
I haven't used it yet.

 

[Neurorad]

I bet the white crimp connectors supplied with the Elk keypads are the same, or close enough, to every other crimp connector, that you're probably OK with them.  
 
If you have enough cable slack, you could run your cable bundle through a single gang junction box, or other project box, mounted in the enclosure, but this would add another connection (and failure point) to each run.
 
I think you should remove the EOLRs, and re-program.

 

[signal15]

I bet the white crimp connectors supplied with the Elk keypads are the same, or close enough, to every other crimp connector, that you're probably OK with them.  
 
If you have enough cable slack, you could run your cable bundle through a single gang junction box, or other project box, mounted in the enclosure, but this would add another connection (and failure point) to each run.
 
I think you should remove the EOLRs, and re-program.

 
I will probably do this tonight.  Sick of looking at the messy crimps in my panel.  

 

[gizzmo]

To those that say EOLs are a waste and to program them out I offer one word, ground.

 

[signal15]

To those that say EOLs are a waste and to program them out I offer one word, ground.

 
To be clear, I'm just taking them out of the panel.  I'm going to add them back in where they should be at some point.  It's been hovering around zero degrees outside for the past couple of weeks, and I'm not looking forward to working on all of the windows and door sensors as there are a lot of them.

 

[Del91574]

The crimp tools sold as "dolphin" are simply a normal die for insulated terminals on a ratchet crimper. They do perform a dual stage crimp, but no worse than any of the quality hand crimpers as mentioned. I own a bunch of each type. B connectors are similar in OAL size irregardless of manufacturer, however those made 30-40 years ago were dimensionally thicker.
 
The tatchet die crimpers are best for the colored terminals (rings, spades, butts, etc).
 
If you must get into putting an EOLR in the panel and not negate them via programming, then you can get an appropriately valued GRI 6644 to either crimp or 6644T to use screw terminals, but in the panel, they do zero and you might as well just turn them off in programming.
 
In the case of putting them in after the fact, just disable in programming and then enable after they're installed permanently.

 

[gizzmo]

I disagree, while not preferred or recommended a resistor in the panel can still detect a ground if it is installed on the ground side of the loop. Not perfect but yes I will say it is better than nothing. If someone is inclined to program out supervision because its not pretty or they think its worthless then who am I to argue, rock on.