Connecting two different alarm systems to same zone

hgupta1

Active Member
I am slowly installing my own Elk panel to replace the ADT panel.   Due to time constraints, it would be difficult for me to knock it out all at once and os I need to move gradually as time permits.   Is it possible to have wired door sensors connected to both panels at the same time?  I assume that I would need resistors or diodes or something to isolate the two alarm panels.
 
Interesting concept.  Do you think the odds are high that you'll get burglarized that exact weekend you have things disconnected?  Or - run some zones on one, some on the other, and arm both?  That's me though - I wouldn't stress too much.
 
That said - it's a fun technical challenge...  I think the diode separation is an option - provided EOL resistors aren't in place. 
 
MANY years ago, I was installing clifford alarm systems and had to do this - tapping into the car's sensors for each door, while combining them into a single zone for the alarm without screwing up the factory computer.  I had to use diodes to isolate the zones and prevent the cross-feeding - but it worked like a champ.
 
I just thought of something.  Could I attach the sensors to the elk and then have the elk send that same open/close status to the ADT panel via output ports and rules?
 
hgupta1 said:
I just thought of something.  Could I attach the sensors to the elk and then have the elk send that same open/close status to the ADT panel via output ports and rules?
 
Most of the Elk's outputs (7 to 16) are voltage outputs, so you couldn't connect them directly to the zone inputs of the other panel.  To do what you suggest, you would need to use relay outputs, such as Output 3, or connect an M1RB relay board to the voltage outputs.  You could also use the 8 relay outputs on a M1XOVR, or standalone relays like the Elk 924 or 912 driven by the voltage outputs.
 
hgupta1 said:
OKay.. I do have an M1XOVR.   I'll see if that works.
 
The M1XOVR will work.  Just remember that the first 8 of its outputs are the relay outputs, while outputs 9-16 are voltage outputs.
 
To activate each relay, you'll need rules like this:
 
Whenever Area 1 Armed State Becomes Armed
   And Zone 1 is Not Secure
   Then Turn Output 17 On
 
Whenever Area 1 Armed State Becomes Armed
   And Zone 1 is Secure
   Then Turn Output 17 Off
 
Whenever Zone 1 becomes Not Secure
  Then Turn Output 17 On
 
Whenever Zone 1 becomes Secure
  Then Turn Output 17 Off
 
You would then use the N/C and Com terminals on the relay to connect to the other panel's zone input.
 
The first pair of rules serve the purpose of syncing up the relay with the true state of the contact when the system is armed in case the system was powered off before being armed.
 
The second pair of rules then change the state of the relay as the contact changes state.
 
I'm not trying to be sarcastic here, but if you think you will have time to install a additional relay board, configure with your Elk system, wire up all the relays to the ADT system, plus wire all the sensors to the Elk, plus take the time in writing all the rules, why not just bite the bullet and go with 'just' the Elk and spend your time configuring that?
 
Again, not sure if I'm missing something.
 
BSR, I see where you're coming from, and yes I left out part of the story.    The house that we moved into is an older historic home full of mysteries with decades of wiring from old alarm systems running through the house.  This thing is straight of an episode of scooby doo.    I've learned that nothing ever happens in this house like I  plan.   So far we have encountered phantom plumbing that goes into walls and disappears, a buried live electrical service line that the utility company said isnot theirs.   I even found a hidden room in the basement this beast!    There's a button in the master closet that says panic room, but I haven't found such a room yet.  There's even a walk-in bank vault.  I would have thought it was the panic room, but there's no air flow in the vault.
 
There are so many wires, that I want to take my time and figure out which run where and what they connect to.  There is no organization...just wires.   To give you a sense of amount of wiring: there's 13 doors, 4 floors..  Plus windows, motion sensors, glass break sensors. The last owner didn't bother hooking up most of the hardwired sensors because there are a trillion of them.  ADT instead just used a bunch of wireless modules (that are hideous in a old house).  I am trying to go back and do it right.
 
I do already have the relay board hooked up because I use the elk to monitor and close my gates.   I have 9 of the doors already wired, but it will really take a lot of time to figure out which wires are connected to the other doors.  This is why I am going slowly and trying to keep the ADT system operable as long as feasible.
 
hgupta1 said:
I have 9 of the doors already wired, but it will really take a lot of time to figure out which wires are connected to the other doors. 
If you don't have one already, get yourself a tone generator and probe kit, like the Fluke Pro 3000. It's invaluable for tracking down what wires go where.
 
yea, a tone generator and a good multimeter.  especially because of the age of the wiring, you really need to perform a leakage and continuity check.  look at my 'how to install a home security system how-to for further instructions.
 
I think you try your luck and replace your security system because it is costly to connect two systems to same zone and i would suggest to utilize your precious time in replacing your system rather than finding a solution to integrate both system in one zone.
 
MichaelHarris259 said:
I think you try your luck and replace your security system because it is costly to connect two systems to same zone and i would suggest to utilize your precious time in replacing your system rather than finding a solution to integrate both system in one zone.
 
 
I finally came to this conclusion as well.   I might have to get someone to help me though.  Anyone know any alarm installers in Memphis?
 
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