Door strike and Handleset

[Luvien]

Hello everyone.

I bought the HAI access card reader and I'm looking for a handleset that will work with a RCI door strike. The people at the store told me the Weiser lock wouldn't work since it's not always locked.

what kind of handleset are you using with an electrical door strike?

Thanks a lot,

 

[signal15]

I don't have door strikes yet, but I'm planning on using the Schlage electronic code locks with them. Then if there's a problem, I am still able to get in with the code.

 

[jaysonc]

I just use the old lock set that was on the door, but I leave it locked all of the time. My wife and I like how this works because combining this with my strike set to fail safe, the door continue to work "normally" for my non-technical family and friends.

However, we have also closely considered a "classroom lock". For these types of knobs the exterior portion stays locked at all times, and the interior side remains unlocked at all times. There is no locking switch.

A few items for you to consider:

Have you considered the loading issue with electronic strikes? There are several discussions on this board that touch on it. In short, almost all strikes on the market are unable to unlock if they are loaded. The slight pressure your door seals create is enough to prevent an unlock. This is why you always see big air gaps on commercial doors with electronic strikes.

I am only aware of one door strike manufacturer that makes a "loadable" strike. They are HES. There may be more if you search.

Two, read up on how door latches work. There are typically two pins. When installed properly and the door is closed, only the larger pin should be extended. The strike should keep the smaller pin depressed. This mechanism is used to prevent a credit card from opening the latch. If only the large latch is extended, then you will not be able to push it back into the door. If both the large latch and the smaller pin are extended you will be able to simply push them back into the door.

 

[Luvien]

Hello Jayson,

From what I see, the Weiser Avalon Handleset doesn't have 2 pins. Hummmm, this thing is starting to be complicated! It's not easy to find a handletset that will work with an electric strike :lol:

I just use the old lock set that was on the door, but I leave it locked all of the time. My wife and I like how this works because combining this with my strike set to fail safe, the door continue to work "normally" for my non-technical family and friends.

However, we have also closely considered a "classroom lock". For these types of knobs the exterior portion stays locked at all times, and the interior side remains unlocked at all times. There is no locking switch.

A few items for you to consider:

Have you considered the loading issue with electronic strikes? There are several discussions on this board that touch on it. In short, almost all strikes on the market are unable to unlock if they are loaded. The slight pressure your door seals create is enough to prevent an unlock. This is why you always see big air gaps on commercial doors with electronic strikes.

I am only aware of one door strike manufacturer that makes a "loadable" strike. They are HES. There may be more if you search.

Two, read up on how door latches work. There are typically two pins. When installed properly and the door is closed, only the larger pin should be extended. The strike should keep the smaller pin depressed. This mechanism is used to prevent a credit card from opening the latch. If only the large latch is extended, then you will not be able to push it back into the door. If both the large latch and the smaller pin are extended you will be able to simply push them back into the door.

 

[jaysonc]

I am sorry. I did not look up the lock you listed. I have never seen a handle set like that that did have 2 pins. It is because they all have deadbolts.

The knob/level styles where the key tumbler is in the handle/knob have 2 pins.

My wife and I have been speaking of making our front door electrically controlled as well. I have not found an acceptable solution yet. The basis of the problem is that the deadbolt is inherently not compatible with the way electronic strikes are designed to work.

 

[ano]

I am sorry. I did not look up the lock you listed. I have never seen a handle set like that that did have 2 pins. It is because they all have deadbolts.

The knob/level styles where the key tumbler is in the handle/knob have 2 pins.

My wife and I have been speaking of making our front door electrically controlled as well. I have not found an acceptable solution yet. The basis of the problem is that the deadbolt is inherently not compatible with the way electronic strikes are designed to work.

Go to e-bay and type electric deadbolt. I recommend on of the lower heat models. They have both fail-safe and fail-secure. I use fail-safe with a battery backup. I would never recommend fail-secure. I'd leave all the existing locks as a backup. Works great and virtually invisible. on the Inside I have an UNLOCK button but there are other solutions. On the outside I have a keypad with an RFID reader. My HAI controls it also.