Elk and GE Glass Break 5812-RND

andygee

Member
I am having problems installing a new GE Glassbreak 5812-RND. I have it wired and upon powering on but no matter whether I add the resistor and put it as supervised or remove it and configure it as open it will not detect any change. Has anyone had any luck with these detectors and a M1?

Thanks,

Andy
 
I am having problems installing a new GE Glassbreak 5812-RND. I have it wired and upon powering on but no matter whether I add the resistor and put it as supervised or remove it and configure it as open it will not detect any change. Has anyone had any luck with these detectors and a M1?

Thanks,

Andy
It should work just fine with the M1. You need to do some basic troubleshooting.

1. Make sure the glassbreak has power. A light should be on to indicate this. Or check with a voltmeter.

2. Remove the contact wires from the glassbreak terminal strip. Hold them together then separate them. Do you get a status change then?

3. If step 2 proves nothing, then try at the M1 terminal strip. Hold a jumper across the zone input then remove it.


In this way you can isolate where the problem is. Is it at the glass break, in the wire, or in the M1.....
 
I am having problems installing a new GE Glassbreak 5812-RND. I have it wired and upon powering on but no matter whether I add the resistor and put it as supervised or remove it and configure it as open it will not detect any change. Has anyone had any luck with these detectors and a M1?

Thanks,

Andy
I installed one a few days ago. No problem here.

Two of the wires go to a zone input. The two others are for power (I used one of the VAUX on the M1G). Sensor is configured as N/C.

I think the red LED turns on only when it detects something. For example, if I clap my hands, the light will turn on.
 
I installed one a few days ago. No problem here.

Two of the wires go to a zone input. The two others are for power (I used one of the VAUX on the M1G). Sensor is configured as N/C.

I think the red LED turns on only when it detects something. For example, if I clap my hands, the light will turn on.

Yes this is what I have done and it reacts the same way. Did you put a resistor on it or is it just N/C unsupervised? I see no change in the panel side when clapping and the light turns red.

Andy
 
Yes this is what I have done and it reacts the same way. Did you put a resistor on it or is it just N/C unsupervised? I see no change in the panel side when clapping and the light turns red.

Andy
No resistor for me.

From the Installation Instructions: "The hand-clap test is intended as a functional test, does not open the relay, and is not an accurate indication of detector range."

Must be why you don't see any change at the panel side.
 
You have to setup the zone properly if you are not using an EOL resistor (EOL defeat or something like that in the zone panel's setup).

I would disconnect the glass break and just short the two screw terminals together with a piece of wire and get your panel to respond properly before trying to troubleshoot the sensor. IF you ARE using an EOL, short out the screw terminals with that resistor instead. Once you get your panel working properly in this fashion THEN trouble shoot the sensor(s).

Make sure you have 12 volt power going to the proper terminals and if possible measure that voltage AT the glass break with a meter (set the meter for DC voltage).

For a quick test of the wiring to the sensor, short it out at the sensor just like you did for the panel (the sensor contacts, not the voltage input of course ;) ).

Now if all worked, get two small blocks of wood (2 x 4) about six inches in length and take one in each hand and slap those puppies togehter. You want the resulting 'clap' to hurt BOTH your ears AND your hands in order for that glass break to trip! :D
 
I have found that some glass break detectors are really hard to get them to go into alarm.

I use a piece of metal about 15 inches square and a hammer. I suppose a metal pan would also work. Strike the metal hard with the hammer and if you are hitting the right frequencies, the detector will go into alarm. Some glass break detectors must have a thud before a ringing sound (glass break sound) to go into alarm. The striking with the hammer makes the thud.
 
Another alternative is to use PIR or other four-wire device as a temporary test device. Before doing this, you may want to double check the red/black power wires for 12vdc to ensure your temporary test device will not be harmed by bad voltage.

You can also drop a set of keys, box of Legos, or operate a circular saw. I changed my glass break from 24 hour to burglar interior due to false alarms.
 
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