*** ELK-ELKM1XOVR or ELK-ELKM1RB?
- Thread starter Mp333
- Start date
The M1RB allows you to convert the voltage output of Outputs 9-16 of the M1, the outputs of an M1OV, or outputs 9-16 of the M1OVR to relay outputs. The M1OVR provides you with 8 additional voltage outputs and 8 relay outputs. So I don't view it as a question of one over the other, since they serve somewhat different purposes. The M1RB converts the output type, while the M1OVR expands the number of outputs.
Get the M1RB if you aren't using the voltage outputs of the M1 and you need a bunch of relays.
Get the M1OVR if you are already using most/all of the M1 voltage outputs for other purposes and need to expand.
If you are using some of the M1 voltage outputs, but still have at least one that is unused, consider using an ELK 912 or 924 relay. That will allow you to convert just the one voltage output to a relay output for your garage door.
If you need more outputs later, you can always add the M1OVR at that time.
Get the M1RB if you aren't using the voltage outputs of the M1 and you need a bunch of relays.
Get the M1OVR if you are already using most/all of the M1 voltage outputs for other purposes and need to expand.
If you are using some of the M1 voltage outputs, but still have at least one that is unused, consider using an ELK 912 or 924 relay. That will allow you to convert just the one voltage output to a relay output for your garage door.
If you need more outputs later, you can always add the M1OVR at that time.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
One consideration - the M1RB has to have the 10-pin or whatever cable connected to either the M1 or the XOVR; so if connecting to the M1 it has to be in the can with the M1. In contrast, the XOVR can be placed anywhere as long as you have a Cat5 back to the panel - so it can be remote.
I used the 14" can that came with the Elk and made it a sub-panel in my garage with an XOVR/RB combo and an XIN - and because the Databus is there, I can still add a keypad, wiegand reader, etc - all in the same panel over the same single cat5. Works great here because the sprinkler controls are in the same place - so it's easy to have control of each sprinkler zone, a few other LV automation items, contacts for the garage door sensors, etc - all separated out in the garage.
I used the 14" can that came with the Elk and made it a sub-panel in my garage with an XOVR/RB combo and an XIN - and because the Databus is there, I can still add a keypad, wiegand reader, etc - all in the same panel over the same single cat5. Works great here because the sprinkler controls are in the same place - so it's easy to have control of each sprinkler zone, a few other LV automation items, contacts for the garage door sensors, etc - all separated out in the garage.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
I just used the onboard OUT3 to connect/control my GDO.
I figured if/when I need to expand further, then I'd need to make that consideration.
I figured if/when I need to expand further, then I'd need to make that consideration.
RB if you're using dry contacts and don't have an issue running the outputs back to the panel.
XOVR if you're running remote. Keep in mind the XOVR is a power hog and can really push your panel over the edge. The M1's bus doesn't like to drop below 12V or funny things start happening.
Realistically, when providing outputs, it's typically a RB connected to the main board for the first 8, then an XOVR for the next 8, then cascade into another RB for the next 8....lather, rinse, repeat.
The voltage outputs are essentially useless unless you use low current TTL relays or LED's and are very power limited.
XOVR if you're running remote. Keep in mind the XOVR is a power hog and can really push your panel over the edge. The M1's bus doesn't like to drop below 12V or funny things start happening.
Realistically, when providing outputs, it's typically a RB connected to the main board for the first 8, then an XOVR for the next 8, then cascade into another RB for the next 8....lather, rinse, repeat.
The voltage outputs are essentially useless unless you use low current TTL relays or LED's and are very power limited.
I have been using the M1RB to control my garage doors. I have the ELK programming set to close the doors if they have been open for 10 minutes. I pulse the relay for 2 seconds to simulate pushing the buttons. If I need to keep the door open, I just place a small piece of cardboard in front of one of the safety sensors to cause the door to stay open.
