Photon
Active Member
Not necessarily. I easily mounted the speaker to the keypad without using the flush mount adapter; just the standard back and #4 screws. I was a bit disappointed to discover the speaker didn't fit into the Carlon old work ring I installed. I don't know the product number, but it is orange in color, no back; just a mounting frame like a mud ring. It is slightly narrower than the "standard" new work electrical switch box just below it. I visited Home Depot this noon and discovered they have two different models of old work single gang electrical boxes. One is slightly wider than the other, and both are wider than the empty ring in my wall. They each have the expanding "ears" like the ring which clamps it to the drywall. I'll test fit the KP2/speaker combo tonight. If it fits either of them, I'll cut the back off the box and try to see if it all fits.
The only other problem I have with these plastic old work devices is the flange that stands proud of the wall after it is clamped in place. The gap is tolerable on outlet plates I installed near the floor for network and coax cables, but the keypad is right up at eye level. Worse yet, the keypad can rock from side to side since it is wider than the box. I'm going to try some little rubber feet to prevent the rocking.
Why didn't I use the flush mount backplate I bought for the keypad? It mounts directly above a single-gang light switch. Since the KP2 is wider than the switch, and the switch's box is nailed directly to a stud, it would be difficult to center the keypad over the switch without carving some clearance in the stud. Besides, two runs of Romex go straight up the side of the stud from the box.
On a related issue, I intend to have another KP2 & speaker on top of my nightstand connected to a network jack with a standard Ethernet cable. Has anyone left a keypad loose like this? If so, what did you mount it in? I planned to refresh my woodworking skills and build a box for it, but that will take time I don't have just now. The electrical box I used temporarily has an unusually low WAF.
Regards. . . .John
The only other problem I have with these plastic old work devices is the flange that stands proud of the wall after it is clamped in place. The gap is tolerable on outlet plates I installed near the floor for network and coax cables, but the keypad is right up at eye level. Worse yet, the keypad can rock from side to side since it is wider than the box. I'm going to try some little rubber feet to prevent the rocking.
Why didn't I use the flush mount backplate I bought for the keypad? It mounts directly above a single-gang light switch. Since the KP2 is wider than the switch, and the switch's box is nailed directly to a stud, it would be difficult to center the keypad over the switch without carving some clearance in the stud. Besides, two runs of Romex go straight up the side of the stud from the box.
On a related issue, I intend to have another KP2 & speaker on top of my nightstand connected to a network jack with a standard Ethernet cable. Has anyone left a keypad loose like this? If so, what did you mount it in? I planned to refresh my woodworking skills and build a box for it, but that will take time I don't have just now. The electrical box I used temporarily has an unusually low WAF.
Regards. . . .John