Elk M1KPNAV Delayed Response

Installed my Elk M1KPNAV last night for the first time and it appears to be somewhat slow in response. When you press the Exit mode or Stay mode there seems to be about a two or three second delay before any action takes place. This does this on any button you press. Even the count down timers do not sound or appear that they are counting down at a one second pace. Is it normal for this type of a delay on the M1KPNAV? Kind of frustrating to have to wait once a button is pressed.
 
Mine does not do this.  I would make sure it is terminated properly with your bus wiring scheme, maybe delete and rediscover.
 
Bingo! It must be my wiring from the panel to the pad. Did a direct wire bench test with the NAV at the panel and it works fine although it does smell like it got hot.
 
Thanks!
 
Do you have a hub installed? I've heard of others here that didn't crimp their cabling properly for the RJ's having similar issues.
 
Don't get the hub...not needed if you understand how to wire the bus. Spend the money on something like a RB instead.
 
Adds another level of difficulty in terminating the cable, especially if you don't have category cable or solid conductors to the keypads or intend on using keypad inputs or outputs.
 
RJ45's have plenty of ways to NOT be crimped correctly or reliably.
 
I found i was pressing too hard when crimping on some rj45s and created some probs.
Why is the data bus hub adding complexity? Seemed a lot simpler and cleaner than daisy chaining imho.
 
Big517 said:
I found i was pressing too hard when crimping on some rj45s and created some probs. Why is the data bus hub adding complexity? Seemed a lot simpler and cleaner than daisy chaining imho.
 
Yes and no.  One more "thing" in the chain, the hub has a finite number of things that can be connected, etc.
 
I used the daisy chain method, its really easy to add stuff.....one set of wires from the last item connected are just taped off, I use those wires to "feed" the data connections of the new item, then tape the extra set off from the wire going to the new item. 
 
I believe the hub allows a max of 9 connections?  Im already very close or even past that.  I actually had purchased one of the hubs but returned when I realized I would end up close or past the initial 9 and would have to buy another hub too.
 
And as a few people mentioned, terminating RJ45 can be finicky at best and provides another possible point of issue/failure.
 
The problems I have with using DBH's (not to be confused with DBHR's) are:
 
No way to distribute aux load or loadshed power on larger installs.
 
No way to break out conductors used to "bring back" KP zones or triggers to the panel, short of omitting them from the RJ45, which adds more failure points or error potential for proper cable termination.
 
If cascading multiple hubs, you need to build your own custom cable....which in the event of troubleshooting, etc. has potential to cause further issues if cable is swapped for either an ethernet patch or ethernet crossover. Makes it very easy for a novice or even a tech not paying attention to smoke equipment.
 
Limits the cable that is able to be installed, or further adds to complexity if anything but solid conductors are used, adds the consideration to select appropriate RJ45's for other cable construction.
 
I deal with RJ45's almost daily and have easily made up thousands and I still have occasional issues, cross pinning, splits and shorts that happen. I see a lot of improperly terminated ends also. I can only imagine a DIY that has never made them or made a couple before.
 
We're not talking about getting ethernet to the keypads or very difficult connections that would need to be made to get a system functioning properly, IMHO adding the hub adds more labor and complexity just for the ability to click a plug in. You still need to provide a "bulk cable" jumper from the panel to the hub
 
If you have enough conductors installed, it's really not a big issue to install the terminating jumper at the last device and making sure additional components have at least 3 pairs to them when you're adding them. If you're worried about having to change the location of the terminating resistor jumper, just pick up a 120 ohm resistor and install it at the panel at the last pair that is the "return".  
 
darryl said:
Am I understanding right there is a case being made for no hubs whatsoever?
 
Looks like its more of a personal/installer preference.  DEL brought up a good point about not being able to loadshed power to things connected to the hub.  That becomes a big deal when you have a bunch of stuff connected, especially something like an XOVR that can potentially draw a lot of current. 
 
If you daisy chain, the browns (+/- 12V) can go wherever you want....to the +/- on the databus itself, to an external supply, a mix of both, etc.
 
I went without the databus, and put the $$ towards a RB just like DEL mentioned.  Plus I think you learn more about the databus itself by making the connections yourself, rather than just plugging things in.
 
darryl said:
Am I understanding right there is a case being made for no hubs whatsoever?
Yes! I also think that the hubs are a "cheater" wiring item that costs money that could be spent on other things. A little bit of planning and thinking and you can always add more data bus devices.
 
As I more or less stated, I don't see the benefit or ease...based on the items I posted.
 
If you pay attention to system design, pull enough conductors when installing and understand the data bus wiring, a hub is really not necessary and IMHO, the tick marks in the cons column outweigh the pros. The most common argument I hear is the location of the terminating resistor/jumper...which is solved just as easily by getting a 120 ohm resistor.
 
It may make for a slightly more asthetically pleasing install, but it would not be my first choice.
 
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