Home automation design review

[Shiltsy]

I've been working on system design and the structured wiring plan for home automation and security in our upcoming build.  As our plan comes together, it's becoming clear that we'll be tighter on our budget than I anticipated.  I love the home automation and security stuff, so I don't mind doing more of the leg work myself.  I may even see if the builder will let me handle structured wiring... as the plan comes together, I can see it easily being $5k or more.  
 
Anyway, the folks in the security forum helped me review the Elk security system design (I will DIY that entire system).  You can see what that design looks like here:
 
https://www.icloud.c...B3-737CF42DD69F
 
Over the past couple of days I started mapping out the structured wiring and high level design for the rest of the system.  Right now this includes everything except lighting (which will probably be wireless anyway).  Please take a look at the high level plan and let me know what I'm missing here.  One thing I'll need to address is 6 button switches.  I don't have any included yet, but think they would be heavily used.  Here is the start of my HA design and structured wiring plan:
 
https://www.icloud.c...53-614B6973F90F
 
Thanks for any feedback!

 

[ronweasley]

Looking at your structured wiring plan I wolud probably say its really great plan.. proceed with it.

 

[willmo]

No suggestions, nice plan.

 

[pete_c]

Looks nice.  Very nice home.
 
Here concurrent with the introduction of managed Gb switches I also introduced a managed POE midstream power injector.  I am still playing with this concurrent with smaller POE switches.  POE being utilized for IP cams and touchscreens.
 
Lighting here today is UPB and recently updated many switches to dual load multiple paddle UPB switches.  For a bit was thinking the multiple paddle switches (not labeled) were going to be a WAF issue.  They are not.
 
Relating to the zoned audio here and said management locally I did put in an inwall box adjacent to the light switch box in every room with 2 speakers.  In the wall box did pass the speaker wires 16/2 to 16/4 home run to the zoned amps.  I also have local controllers in the box (can do similiar though with touch screens).
 
For the deck here utilize low voltage LED light as indirect and high voltage lighting.  I put a natural gas line to the BBQ grill plus HV lighting and outlets adjacent to the grill area. Both LV / HV lighting is automated.  Mostly utilize the LV indirect lighting mini sconces on the deck railings.
 
Relating to lighting and security you an put in discete LED wide floods high facing down if you want. (well and add cams to the same coverage).

 

[SteveInNorCal]

I have my Elk system about 99% done. My goals were fairly simple. Good security system plus turn the lights on randomly when the system is armed away to create a lived-in look.
 
 Here are a few thoughts:

• Consider adding an Elk M1XRFTW Wireless Transceiver to be able to talk to a wireless key fob. Keep the fob in your bedroom nightstand to turn on lights if you hear a noise in the house or want to manually activate the alarm. I don't carry a fob with me on my keychain as I don't want to run the risk of losing it. Plan for an in-wall wiring run to the M1XRFTW.
• Get an Uplink GSM radio for backup comms to the central station. I use their model 4500ez which was easy to install, configure, and activate. I mounted the radio card in my can with the Elk (so far, no bad discernible RF effects) and I bought their remote antenna with a 12 foot coax extension. I ran the coax from the can to the antenna mounted in the attic and have excellent signal strength (I'm in a one-story ranch house).
• I use the Elk M1TWA Amplified Two Way Listen-In Interface to provide amplified audio to three interior Elk speakers with microphones to provide listen-in capability. 
• I'm using Bosch ISC-BDL2-WP12G Blue Line Gen 2 motion sensors. We have two cats and a small 25 pound dog and have had zero false alarms.
• Consider glass break detectors for the garage (if you have windows in the garage). I'm using Honeywell FG-730 which seems reliable. You need to install a switch in a box on the power supply to the units to reset them after testing them (I used a simple NC momentary switch that I press to interrupt the power to the detector and reset it).
• Do a detailed power budget of everything. The Elk power budget spreadsheet is very rudimentary, but was a good starting point for me to create a more detailed tool which I used for my design. I was surprised how much power everything consumed when activated -- be sure to design for full activation of everything in the system plus some safety margin. You'll probably find you will need an auxiliary power supply. As others have said, you don't want to find out about flaky system behavior when you've run out of juice in an emergency.
• I installed an Altronix eFlow4nx8 (12 VDC; 8 fuse-protected, Class 2 power-limited outputs. 2.5 Amp 12 VDC outputs; 3.5 Amp 120 VAC input) to drive about 60% of my loads. Be sure to bond the negative of the aux power supply to the negative of the Elk. Dedicate one Elk input to monitoring AC failure to the aux PS and battery failure in the aux PS. Mount the aux PS in its own in-wall can with a locked or screwed-on cover so the crooks can't open it and rip out the wiring to deactivate everything.
• ​I use UPB lighting. The devices are horribly expensive, but high quality, quite reliable, and very flexible. I didn't want the hassle of RF hopping, lags, RF shielding of my metal junction boxes, config difficulties and problems with adds/drops/changes, etc. The powerline communications in my 1700 sq foot house are very reliable.
• Get a "FakeTV" to create a lived-in look while your are out. This $25 device has multiple colored LEDs behind some lenses to project a TV-like light into a room which makes it look just like the TV is on. Make sure nobody can see it looking in a window. I connected mine to a UPB lamp module so it goes on after dark when the alarm is armed away.
• If you can, dedicate an internal utility room to the security system or use an existing mechanical / utility room. Put in at least twice as many cans as you think you'll need. Isolate the main and aux power supplies in their own can. Do a complete mechanical layout design of all your parts and then do a dry-fit before mounting anything in the can. It took me a long time to figure out how to optimize the location of parts in the cans to make sure certain parts were adjacent to each other, minimize wiring runs, etc. I pulled all of my devices (except the Elk M1G) out of their plastic cases and mounted the PCBs directly to the can using nylon standoffs plugging into holes I drilled in the back wall. Put vertical wiring duct on the left and right sides of the interior of the cans for clean wiring. Run two inch PVC conduit from the cans to each other and to the attic and basement or other chases. Learn how to solder and tin the ends of all wires.
• I don't think I'd use a separate Elk input for each water sensor. I currently don't have water leak sensors, but want to add them. One of our neighbors has a tankless water heater. While on vacation, a hot-water hose to a bathroom faucet failed and the tankless water heater kept merrily pumping out endless hot water and the ENTIRE house got up to 120 deg F. Everthing inside the house was ruined -- sheetrock, clothes, furniture, appliances. They were out of the house for six months while it was completely rebuilt. I like the Honeywell WaterDefense Water Leak Detection Alarm because it uses a 6 foot long sensor which can be extended in 8 foot increments. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to connect to a central monitoring system, so I'm looking at the Winland Waterbug WB800 system which can read four supervised probes or eight unsupervised probes (these are spot probes, not wire probes). The WB800 has a relay output which would go to a single input on the Elk. The Elk would then turn off a whole-house valve such as the Elk WSV2 (making sure, of course, to not turn off sprinkler alarm water) and send a message to you via email or text.​
• On the Elk keypad, I suggest you configure the function keys to require a double press or press-and-hold for two seconds. It's too easy to accidentally press an F key configured for a single press. That's how my son managed to summon the fire department to our house before I changed the config.
• Lastly, I use Alarm Relay to monitor my system. I'm very happy with them -- good prices, excellent service, and prompt response when I trigger something.

Time spent in logical, wiring, power, and mechanical planning sure does save headaches down the road.
 
When you run into troubles, your friends on CT will be most helpful in diagnosing problems. I got a lot of invaluable advice here.
 
My two cents. Good luck to you. It'll be a fun project and give you good peace of mind in the end.

 

[Peabods]

Here's my two cents from looking at the schematic only, and i didn't read anybody else's responses either.
 
1. For your speaker wiring runs to your speakers in each room. You indicate 12/2 wiring, i am not sure if you have a 70V amp or are possible mono summing the signal and sending mono to both speakers? I would recommend going with 16/4 or 14/4 if you want, little need for anything larger unless you are pushing over 100wpc. The four conductor will at least get you stereo in each room, otherwise you will only get a mono feed.
 
2.You indicate you are pulling four Cat6 although you show the color as Cat5e on the schematic, so i'll assume it's 6. If you can i would substitute one of the standard cat6's for a shielded cat6, unless you can truly control your routing paths away for HV. I use shielded cat6 for the video runs for all jobs i spec, a little added insurance.
 
3. Regarding the network switch. You'll want to separate out your IP cameras onto their own switch, unless you have a managed switch, so you can segregate your traffic accordingly. IP traffic will flood a standard switch and the rest of your network will suffer because of it.
 
Otherwise, looks pretty good! Beautiful House