One of the recent (2008?,2011?) code changes was to require a neutral at every switch location. One of the reasons for this change was that some of these new fangled switches were using the ground as an artifical neutral and putting current on the ground. You can still have a switch loop, but you need to use 14/3 or 12/3.CJW-PIC said:In the old days we ran the power w/neutral to the light first, then dropped a switch leg (2 wire) to the physical switch. Current thinking is to run power w/neutral to the primary switch box then wire the switch leg to the fixture.
video321 said:Going back to the wire at your switch.... is that 14/2 the only wire coming into that box?
If it is then that would explain why you're confused with needing 14/3 - that line would be a feed coming FROM the light fixture acting as hot/switched hot/ground with no neutral.
Then the neutral is already in the box. It's the white wire that is probably spliced with a wire nut and pushed into the back of the box.jbrukardt said:ah. No. Ill have to pull apart a switch again, but from the best of my memory, i have one wire coming up the wall from the crawlspace under the house (and the panel) and another wire going from that box, to the ceiling light/fan
No 3 ways
JimS said:Then the neutral is already in the box. It's the white wire that is probably spliced with a wire nut and pushed into the back of the box.