It's amazing what people will steal

Neurorad said:
At the supply end of the irrigation system, there is a fitting for the compressor, which allows one to hook up the compressor and just run the irrigation system through all of the zones.

I guess I could get an adapter for a leaf blower, but I don't own a leaf blower. ;)
Click to expand...
That's the way I always cleared the lines: One connection where I attached the compressor, and cycle the zones while the compressor is running. Let each zone run until all the water is evacuated. Before you remove the connection, make sure you turn off the water supply to the system. Plus, if you have outdoor hose spigots, keep in mind some of those may be tapped off the sprinkler system, especially if they're located away from the house. If so, you must open those spigots and let the compressor clear those lines, too.

Kevin
 
Neurorad said:
At the supply end of the irrigation system, there is a fitting for the compressor, which allows one to hook up the compressor and just run the irrigation system through all of the zones.

I guess I could get an adapter for a leaf blower, but I don't own a leaf blower. ;)
Click to expand...

Those don't actually work as well as you'd hope....

We had to clear out a 600' long 2" conduit so we could run a nylon line for our telephone....something was blocking it. turns out there was a lot of water in it (and several things that had died in the water....), just from rain and snow melt. We brought out the leaf blower....it hardly did anything. There's a lot of volume in the blower, but not a lot of pressure.

The winner for us was our really simple/cheap shop vac. just hooked up the hose to the blowing end, and it blew most of the water out.
 
I don't think there are any obstructions (furry & dead, or otherwise) in my system. It's a nice excuse to invest in a compressor. I just need to figure out the minbimum CFM.
 
The sprinkler company installed my copper backflow preventer. It is above the ground with no PVC. I remove mine every fall. I purchased a 30 gallon tank compressor just to be able to clear the lines. It takes about one hour to clear the lines (10 of them)
 
petec said:
The sprinkler company installed my copper backflow preventer. It is above the ground with no PVC. I remove mine every fall. I purchased a 30 gallon tank compressor just to be able to clear the lines. It takes about one hour to clear the lines (10 of them)
Click to expand...

After some searching, I've just figured out that the number of gallons doesn't correlate too closely with cubic feet per minute - thank you Porter Cable website.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/C...tPath=4272.4289

Looks like some of the small compressor scan put out the same CFM as some of the larger ones.

Edit - Rainbird rec's 10-25 CFM, with a low PSI maximum (50).

Edit #2 - Hunter rec's 80-100 CFM.

Info from their websites, search there for "air compressor".
 
Cort,

Check out this web site for a new product that will protect backflow valves better than traditional cage systems: www.backflowtheft.com. This line of products has proven to be a reliable deterrent against theft in California as well as Arizona, Tennessee and Florida where areas have been hit the hardest by theft. Here in California, thieves have stolen everyting from backflows to manhole covers, aluminum staduim bleachers, highway guardrails copper wiring from buildings (even churches) and brass urns from graveyards! Good luck.
 
Backflow preventers in the ground are generally completely worthless and I'm surprised they are still allowed by code ANYWHERE. You want to prevent contamination of the indoor water from chemicals and bacteria, if there is pressure on both sides of a backflow preventer, EVEN IF the valve is working there is a potential for bacteria/chemicals to leach over.

Backflow/anti-siphon/vacuum breaker is the only way to go and those are mounted at least a foot above the sprinkler heads. That way there is never water on both sides of the device (it WILL drain out of the lowest sprinkler head).

In anycase, these devices simply dont work if there is water pressure on both sides so they should not be mounted in the ground. (they work on physics and you need a pressure differential from supply side to output side) <---and no, water supply pressure is NOT sufficient....in a heavy rainstorm you might end up with an inch of standing water in you yard (even if only for minutes), you have any idea how much that water weights and what the effective pressure pushing back into the system is!
 
sic0048 said:
$10 says this last post is SPAM!
Click to expand...
SPAM like the guy went thru the trouble to register to the board and then posted a link? (manually). Man that is hard-core desperate spammin if so...



Me on the left ;) spammer on the right

heh heh heh
 
anyone can register a .org. And yes, people will sign up manually, just to spam here. Spammers think it is worth it because they have a product that almost every member of this board might be interested in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top