LED Stairway Lighting

Yup; here trying very much baby steps to wean the house of the indirect halogen / zenon lighting.  Today its all 120VAC and I am dimming it using the UPB switches.  That said the EL lightiing has its place and while its everywhere; its only utilized for only its "glow".  Many folks utilize EL for a sort of mood neon lighting type effect.  But neon goes only so far. 
 
Looking at LED lighting to replace the indirect halogen and zenon stuff.  Recently in my outdoor landscaping endeavor did utilize the Kichler LED lighting.  It is though very expensive.  We installed some maybe 20 of these in a stone and rock garden.  (IE: landscaper did and I wired them up).  The wires to the little under the step Kichler LED lamps were easy to hide.  But the cost was a bit high.  (probably over $1000 to do your steps even purchasing the Kichler lighting at wholesale prices) - best to do a DIY LED lighting thing here.
 
http://www.moonlightdecks.com/Low-Voltage-LED-Under-Railing-Deck-Lights-and-Step-Lights.php
 
Having the open stair side you can easily do LV (LEDs or EL) with less gang boxes or maybe only one for all of the lighting of the steps.  You can also just cut the stairs and insert boxes which I do not believe you were interested in. 
 
Personally while in "testing" mode you can be less invasive testing say a strip of LED's as Work2Play has mentioned and a strip of EL lighting to see what "fits" best. 
 
Here in the current home I have a "finished" set of wood stairs (and carpeted) going to the second floor; that said I would look at this endeavor one way while I have another set of stairs going to the yet unfinished basement and I would look at this endeavor another way (as I could really do anything with the electrical infrastructure).  As dim lighting you might not even want to put switches on them; as mood lighting you might want switches on them and even maybe be able to change the colors in the switch boxes for moods.
 
In the old home I finished the basement in the 1980's and put in gang boxes with louvered lighting on the side stairs wall plus in wall sconces going down to the basement. This was all HV and did literally make the stairs daylight like.  I did have two switches for the two different types of lightings (one double gang at the top and one double gang box at the bottom).  The kids rooms all had multiple sets of X10 controlled lighting and at that time just had small table lamps which would dim down to some 20% and that worked for me. 
 
Here to starting (very slowly) to play with wireless LED lighting which is color changing and dimmable via remote keypad.  I am looking to DIY this initially outside and currently have one LED remote controllable light set up and it does work to create a landscaping lighting type mood.  It can be utilized say for the holiday lighting stuff. 
 
The technology changes are happening faster than I can keep up or it might be my age not able to keep up with the rapidly changing technologies.
 
Relating to quality; that in itself is another issue.  I mean I changed my bimmer tail lights to all an LED (OEM'd it) in 2002 on my 2001 and all of the LEDs are still working fine. 
 
That said I am seeing new late model vehicles (1-2 years old) with the "new" LED lighting and I have see a few now with burned out LEDs which really kind of looks tacky and tells me that the quality is substandard; but that is my opinion. 
 
OK - so I think I have the skills to pull this one off - the routing / mounting / wiring, etc. - see the youtube link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiwkAKQuhgI
 
Can someone help w/the materials needed - Light / Power supply choice, etc? With LED lighting there is so much choice - I have no LED experience.
 
Thanks!
 
I'd just go with this strip.
 
You can solder some wires onto the end to get to some place hidden to mount the power supply.  They do count as LV so code-wise it's pretty flexible.  Just don't underestimate the amperage those things draw because it's a pretty decent amount.
 
Otherwise if you wanted it to look better, you could route a deep channel for the LED's with a slightly wider channel at the surface where a piece of frosted plexiglass or potentially even real glass could be affixed making it totally flush and basically invisible.
 
Brilliant! Not sure how I didn't come across those in my surfing. I will bet that's what the person in the video used. Thank you for the suggestion - I have the wire run mapped in my head already for a completely hidden solution, and will probably route the bottom of the handrail as you suggested. The 16.4' kit will need to trimmed down slightly but otherwise this looks like a goof buy.
 
Interesting point about the current.  The listing states 72W/5M.  It also states 2A per color.  With 3 colors this matches up with 12V at 6A max.  But the power supply supplied is 1.5A (from the questions section).  That seems very small.
 
Looks pretty good but how to control this?  Just bypass the control and use something else or use some sort of computer controlled IR transmitter?
 
I have a board that runs just above the top of the steps that overhangs the wall slightly and the railing and spindles is above that.  I think I could put this under the edge of the board.to hide it.
 
I used to import these from China directly before they got so popular so I just searched for SMD5050 RGB and those came up.  I actually have a set above my kitchen cabinets for mood lighting - they're kinda fun.  I have them come on with my kitchen lights so they run for several hours every day.
 
There are all sorts of different control options available for these - there's a company in the UK that makes one that's serial controllable (I have it floating around here somewhere - never got a chance to try it but had considered having the Elk send it commands).  The one I use has a cheapo handheld remote and can be hooked to DMX - but something in mine shorted - no matter what Red stays on so my color options are limited now.  Or you can roll your own.  I do advise searching for High Power LED controller.
 
As for the length - they can be trimmed in 3" increments usually - as soon as you get it you'll be able to see the markings where they can be cut.
 
How to control is a good question. Work2Play, when you first supply power, will they come on by themselves, or do you have to use the remote? If they do come on by themselves, what color is it on?
 
Found a 3 LED 12VDC very bright strip for around $3.25 the other day.  Ordered some to play with because they resemble the Kichler Landscaping outdoor lighting strips. (which are closer to $80 each). 
 
They are waterproof and LED lamps are sealed.  Not sure; but looks like these could be used for aquarium lighting effects.
 
The label on these is LG Innotek (LX-EC035).  24mA @ 12Vdc per strip. Blindingly bright when testing. 
 
I ordered 4 of these and they are all daisychained together. They come with 3M adhesive tape on them and little screw holes to mount them.  Looks like the LED is sealed with some sort of clear epoxy.  Very well constructed for the price.
 
The attached pictures appears to show some white heat shrink tubing on the ends.  Mine does not have any.  The picture doesn't show the sealed cover / clear over the LEDs pieces.
 

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pete_c said:
Yup; they are at All Ellectronics dot com in California.  They are white more cool than warm; but not bluish.
 
I've been purchasing stuff from this company some 15 years now.  Its where I originally purchased my EL stuff many years ago.
 
$3.25 each.
 
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LS-123CW/12-VOLT-COOL-WHITE-LED-MODULE-STRIP/1.html
 
Interesting.  I am looking for some under cabinet LEDs.  Do you think they would fit in these diffuser channels?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-3ft-Aluminum-V-Shape-Channel-for-flex-LED-Strip-Light-Emulational-Neon-Effect-/131022218138
 
I'm pretty sure those diffuser chanels are for these rolls - those are the double density ones which I have under my cabinets and they're very bright - perfect for that application.  They can be cut every 1.5" IIRC to fit any length you want.
 
Pete - the ones you mentioned from allelectronics look to be basically the same thing - probably the 300LED version of the roll which is regular density, cut to the minimum lengths (minimum length on most of these rolls is 3 LED's which I believe is 3" for regular density or 1.5" for double density).
 
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