monitoring attic and fire

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Ok, yesterday midnight, my neighbor friend's house burned. Roof and second floor is gone and huge damage in 1st floor. Still not sure how the fire started. They think that it would have started in the ceiling. Our community started 2006 and our houses was built this time and village required that every house needs to have fire sprinklers.

If let say the fire started in the attic, what is the best way to monitor it? Is putting smoke alarm in the attic a good idea? Or what are some effective ways to inform the people who are in the house that's something is happening?

Thanks!

 

[fabriziojoe]

Ok, yesterday midnight, my neighbor friend's house burned. Roof and second floor is gone and huge damage in 1st floor. Still not sure how the fire started. They think that it would have started in the ceiling. Our community started 2006 and our houses was built this time and village required that every house needs to have fire sprinklers.

If let say the fire started in the attic, what is the best way to monitor it? Is putting smoke alarm in the attic a good idea? Or what are some effective ways to inform the people who are in the house that's something is happening?

Thanks!

I have an Omni Pro II and put heat detectors on their own loop and configure them as a fire zone.

 

[opie]

Heat detectors; you don't want a smoke detector in the attic...too dusty and would give false alarms.

Edit: Removed link to wrong sensor.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Heat detectors; you don't want a smoke detector in the attic...too dusty and would give false alarms.

Edit: Added link.

Here is one that may work for you.

So most likely, T8060(140F) is what I need. Can I just mount it on a vertical stud?

By the way, here is my neighbor's house.

http://www.dailyherald.com/story/comments/?id=380169

 

[opie]

Heat detectors; you don't want a smoke detector in the attic...too dusty and would give false alarms.

Edit: Added link.

Here is one that may work for you.

So most likely, T8060(140F) is what I need. Can I just mount it on a vertical stud?

By the way, here is my neighbor's house.

http://www.dailyherald.com/story/comments/?id=380169

I was just thinking that 140F might be too low. Worthington lists one specifically for attics that trips at 194F in their HAI section but I'm not sure who makes it.

Edit: After a little research, 140F is meant for kitchens and Mech rooms.

 

[opie]

Sorry to spam this thread

Here is the one I was talking about. The instructions should offer guidance in mounting location but if not I would assume about 1 foot up from the top of the insulation on a support member. I think I'm going to order one of these too.

Sorry to hear about your neighbor.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Sorry to spam this thread

Here is the one I was talking about. The instructions should offer guidance in mounting location but if not I would assume about 1 foot up from the top of the insulation on a support member. I think I'm going to order one of these too.

Sorry to hear about your neighbor.

Awesome! The price isn't bad as well. Thanks!

 

[Steve]

I would definitely use the 194 deg one and also rate of rise. I am partial to the System Sensor stuff. I have 4 of these slated for the attic (and 135 deg one for kitchen). All sitting here and will likely be installed this weekend. Here are the specs from mfg. The pic on the AO site is wrong, they look like the pic on mfg site.

 

[opie]

I would definitely use the 194 deg one and also rate of rise. I am partial to the System Sensor stuff. I have 4 of these slated for the attic (and 135 deg one for kitchen). All sitting here and will likely be installed this weekend. Here are the specs from mfg. The pic on the AO site is wrong, they look like the pic on mfg site.

I do like the System Sensor stuff too....never had a problem with them.

 

[beelzerob]

Ya, heat detectors are cheap. Make sure you put a couple in your garage too, over where the cars are parked.

My aunt and uncle recently had an attic fire that they caught while it was still smoldering...still did some damage, mainly from the firefighters punching holes in the ceiling to get at it. I think the overall concensus was that it was an overheating or shorting out ceiling fan.

Interesting it says that they know the fire started outside the structure...maybe power lines going in? dunno.

Sad day for everyone involved, and these posts always managed to give everyone a kick in the safety/security things they've been putting off.

 

[Sacedog]

I used similar ones as those in my house, and hooked them up to my Elk. They are a simple open contact, so they can hook up to any zone.

I put one next to each of the 3 HVAC systems, in each garage, in the kitchen, and in the laundry room.

 

[Desert_AIP]

Been looking at the System Sensor and the GE 1014/1016.

Can't find electrical specs on either model.
Are these 12VDC or 120VAC?
If 12VDC, what is the current draw?

Thanks

 

[Steve]

Specs are on the mfg site I linked above

Electrical Specifications
The Operating Voltage / Contact Ratings shall be 6–125VAC / 3A, 6–28VDC / 1A, 125VDC / 0.3A, 250VDC / 0.1A. The Input Terminals shall be 14–22 AWG.

Edit: Actually that doesn't answer your question about current draw but I would suspect it is = or < other models which would be < 100 micro amps standby. Bottom line is you should be able to use several of them on almost any system without much trouble at all.

 

[gatchel]

I use the 194 degree units in my attic. No false alarms yet. 140 is too close to hot summer day temperatures.

 

[opie]

Specs are on the mfg site I linked above

Electrical Specifications
The Operating Voltage / Contact Ratings shall be 6–125VAC / 3A, 6–28VDC / 1A, 125VDC / 0.3A, 250VDC / 0.1A. The Input Terminals shall be 14–22 AWG.

Edit: Actually that doesn't answer your question about current draw but I would suspect it is = or < other models which would be < 100 micro amps standby. Bottom line is you should be able to use several of them on almost any system without much trouble at all.

From reading the instructions, it seems these are mechanical.

From the instructions:

As the temperature rises, the air within the sealed chamber expands. Should the chamber air expand faster than it can escape through the cali- brated vent, the diaphragm is depressed, and the electrical contact closes the circuit.

This part will reset but the high temp limit is a one shot deal.

The fixed temperature element reacts to heat by re-sponding to a specific temperature setting (135oF or 194oF). The detection method is based on the spring action of a metal contact, held to the metal chamber by a fusible alloy. When the temperature reaches the alloy’s melting point, the metal contact will depress the diaphragm, causing the electrical contact to close the circuit.