Motion Detector Solutions

[maddoghoek100]

Do any of the motion detectors that have been recomended respond to RF commands to turn them off.

I was looking for a motion detecotr that i could disable via remote. The only thing i cna think of is to use an x10 universal module and connect it up to the batteries on a wireless detector.

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

Why do you want to disable the motion sensor? From software, you could disable the function it triggers.

 

[rocco]

Well, for one, there may not be software. I often control the lights directly from the motion sensor.

However, if you switch off the batteries to an X10 motion sensor, it will revert to house/unit code A1/A2 when powered back up.

 

[maddoghoek100]

Hmmm, it would deffinitly be an issue if the sensor reverts to its default after it loses power.

I was not using software to control my current setup. It is rather simple and I have no real need for macros.

I was planning to use motion sensors in all of the rooms in my house (they already use all types of x10 hardware), however in the livingroom and bedroom there are times where there will be movement and I do not want to turn the lights on, movie time and bed time.

So perhaps software is the way to go, as I imagine i would be able to set time thresholds, but then I imagine the energy savings (the reason I decided to do it in the first place) would be decreased as I would have to run a PC 24/7

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

OK, I see what you're saying.

Well, if you wanted to keep it simple, you could use a CM11A computer interface ($30) and the free Activehome software. With that, you wouldn't need a computer running all the time.

 

[fitzpatri8]

Do any of the motion detectors that have been recomended respond to RF commands to turn them off.

I was looking for a motion detecotr that i could disable via remote. The only thing i cna think of is to use an x10 universal module and connect it up to the batteries on a wireless detector.

What you want is a device capable of running a conditional macro. You can do that by leaving a computer on and running home automation software, by using one of the new conditional macro-capable stand alone controllers, or by getting creative with hardware.

If you just have a couple of rooms that fit this category, you can use a hardware approach. Set those motion detectors to different housecodes, plug a TM751 for that housecode into an appliance module, then cut the power to the tm751 when you want to disable that motion sensor.

The Activehome Pro interface, when combined with the Smart Macro plug-in (add'l $49), is supposed to do the same thing. The plugin can be set to ignore a trigger based on the condition of a flag or the state of another unit on the same housecode. FWIW, the unit has a bad reputation for poor range and random failure of downloaded macros. I returned mine after a month of total and complete frustration. YMMV.

The Smarthome Powerlinc Controller 1132CU interface, when combined with the Smarthome Manager Plus software (available at discount through a reseller who frequents this forum), is a better option. Like the AHP interface, you can set up conditional macros, download them to the interface, then disconnect and turn off your computer. The interface can be programmed to act differently in response to a trigger based on time of day, day of week, day of month, the state of another X10 unit code. If you use X10 controllers, this becomes real handy as you can easily double the number of devices a controller can handle. (The stick-a-switch, for instance, can then control six or more different codes using conditional logic. If it sees A1 ON and the device is already ON, turn it off; if the device is off, turn it ON, etc.)

Tom

 

[kwilcox]

All capabilities aside, you just can't beat those X10 specials though.... I just scored 4 eagle-eyes for $35 delivered. That's not even $9/sensor!

I just need to paint the damn things white now...

 

[upstatemike]

If you plug the RF receiver for the motion sensors into an appliance module wouldn't that do what you want? Just make sure the appliance module is on a different house code from the motion sensors so you can still use a wireless remote (and second receiver) to control it.

 

[kwilcox]

I've done that in the past and it works quite well as long as you only have one or two sensors. I never had really good luck with my system until I installed a W800RF which removed my considerable motion sensor traffic from the powerline. In my case, the appliance module solution won't work so I currently do it all with software as was suggested earlier.

 

[dsmithut]

That would be the SAI UMI-32. It's got 3 inputs and 2 outputs. However, only 2 of the three can use contact closures. They all can do voltage sense however. I'm using this module in my HVAC system. It's very nice if you can get your hands on one. SAI has a pretty big backlog at the present time so expect to wait a couple of weeks for one.

How are you using this with your HVAC?

 

[kwilcox]

Thanks for giving me the opportunity! Who doesn't love to blather on about their HA system eh?

Well, the two UMI-32 outputs are connected to the heat and AC request thermostat lines. Contact closures there make the circuit from the furnace 24V supply just like a thermostat would. My system doesn't have a low voltage blower output so I connected a 120V relay to the blower output and the other side of the relay to one of the contact closure sense inputs of the UMI-32. When my furnace blower activates, my central controller receives the signal from the UMI-32 and may activate two inline duct fans that supply the east side of my output plenum. This side feeds the primary living areas of the house. If "Master Bedroom Occupied (MBO)" is set (I press a switch at the bedside table which also does a "all lights off", closes the garage door if open, deactivates all motion sensors and activates the Intruder sensors) then the fans aren't activated. This increases pressure in the west side of the primary plenum which feeds the sleeping area of the house. If the system decides to activate the fans because MBO isn't set, then they are set to 80% if the system is in AC mode or 50% otherwise. Additionally, if the system is in AC mode then a 3 hour timer activates. This timer is cancelled by a 24V-0V transition from the thermostat AC request line which is wired through a low voltage sense input on my UMI-32. If the time limit expires then the system hasn't cooled the house down in 3 hours so the controller sets the inline fans to 100% for MAX AC mode to the home living areas.

I have a templinc in the master bedroom too. When MBO is set and the system is in AC mode, then the central controller uses templinc output to control the AC request side of my HVAC via the UMI-32. My templinc is set to 72 degrees. This essentially overrides the main thermostat and works to keep the sleeping areas cooler.

System AC mode is a flag that is set if the controller sees an AC request from the thermostat and the flag is in system heat mode. Conversely, system heat mode is set if the controller sees a heat request from the thermostat and its in system AC mode.

How's this wired on the UMI-32? Here the terminal map

1 AC control output
2 AC control output
3 Heat control output
4 Heat control output
5 Thermostat heat request voltage sense
6 Thermostat heat request voltage sense
8 Thermostat AC request voltage sense
9 Thermostat AC request voltage sense
15 Blower contact closure sense from relay
16 Blower contact closure sense from relay

I am thinking about changing this setup in the near future however and simply wire another thermostat into the bedroom and use the UMI to control which one is active by switching the common 24v supply between the two. This will free up the templinc for the following:

I am not currently using the heat-request outputs but plan on implementing this and the templinc as a low temperature fail-safe for when the house is in vacation mode. Logic here will SMS me when the failsafe heating system activates then SMS me a second time if the temperature doesn't reach the failsafe setpoint in 2 hours.