Mounting & powering a touch screen

M

MrGibbage

Active Member
I know this has been covered before, but dang if I can't find it (I know one of you will jam it down my throat by replying with the link--if you do, tell me the search terms you used to find it)

Anyway, if someone wants to mount, say an iPad, or other touch screen to their wall permanently, what is the "by the book" way to get power to it from inside the wall? I'm pretty sure I can't just drop a wall wart in there or anything stoopid like that.
 
I think if you put an outlet, it has to be accessible in the event of a fire, otherwise you could just snip the low voltage wire from the power pack and run a 2 conductor cable to an outlet somewhere else. I have two touch screens, one mounted on an articulating arm with an outlet mounted right behind the arm, another with the low voltage cable going to an outlet the pc is plugged into in the basement.
 
MrGibbage said:
I know this has been covered before, but dang if I can't find it (I know one of you will jam it down my throat by replying with the link--if you do, tell me the search terms you used to find it)

Anyway, if someone wants to mount, say an iPad, or other touch screen to their wall permanently, what is the "by the book" way to get power to it from inside the wall? I'm pretty sure I can't just drop a wall wart in there or anything stoopid like that.
Click to expand...

I'm not an electrician, but I believe you are right about no wall warts in the wall. My understanding is that only Romex or approved wire in conduit can carry 120vac inside a wall cavity.

Low voltage wire may have different requirements. If you have attic space above the wall, maybe it's okay to have a wall wart plugged into an approved outlet in the attic (but maybe attic heat is a problem), and then you can run low voltage wires from the wall wart inside the wall to the screen. Or maybe you have to permanently open up the wall cavity behind the screen so that it is no longer "in the wall", mount an outlet box in the open area, then cover it up with the screen.

Ira
 
Ira said:
MrGibbage said:
I know this has been covered before, but dang if I can't find it (I know one of you will jam it down my throat by replying with the link--if you do, tell me the search terms you used to find it)

Anyway, if someone wants to mount, say an iPad, or other touch screen to their wall permanently, what is the "by the book" way to get power to it from inside the wall? I'm pretty sure I can't just drop a wall wart in there or anything stoopid like that.
Click to expand...

I'm not an electrician, but I believe you are right about no wall warts in the wall. My understanding is that only Romex or approved wire in conduit can carry 120vac inside a wall cavity.

Low voltage wire may have different requirements. If you have attic space above the wall, maybe it's okay to have a wall wart plugged into an approved outlet in the attic (but maybe attic heat is a problem), and then you can run low voltage wires from the wall wart inside the wall to the screen. Or maybe you have to permanently open up the wall cavity behind the screen so that it is no longer "in the wall", mount an outlet box in the open area, then cover it up with the screen.

Ira
Click to expand...

You could also probably use one of the boxes used with wall mount TVs that provide a recessed outlet and low voltage/signal connections. Leviton makes one, and it is designed to provide space for a power outlet, as well as two wall plates for signal/low volatage connections. The only thing you need to be sure of is that your wall mounted display touch panel is large enough to cover the box.
 
Ya, I had them put an outlet in the attic and basement, close to where the touchscreens were going to be, so I could just plug it into there. If you have a closet nearby on the opposite side of the wall from the touchscreen, maybe you could do that.
 
I used a couple of "automotive" 12VDC USB 7-9" touch screens. Many of these are sold with a "clam" shell to mount them on the back of a headrest. The "clamshell" makes it easy to mount in drywall. I take the 12VDC/USB cable either into the attic or into the basement. I have played with (and have) 15" plus and don't link the footprint. I am currently playing with a 12" and I personally consider this one most likely the largest size that I would utilize. I do have a 15" LCD TV in the kitchen and have "entertained" going to a touch screen here but this is up to WAF acceptance.
 
Yeah, I think I am going to just run the LV into the wall and make it happen. I am planning on mounting the panel on the "exterior" wall of my wiring closet, so it should be easy. But I was worried about the transition from where the LV goes into the wall itself.
 
They make single gang cover plates that simply have a large hooded hole in them, for running wires directly into and out of the wall, so you don't have to terminate it to the plate.
 
beelzerob said:
They make single gang cover plates that simply have a large hooded hole in them, for running wires directly into and out of the wall, so you don't have to terminate it to the plate.
Click to expand...

Here is a picture of what Beelzerob is talking about - can't remember where I bought it tho.

Outlet.jpg
 
They also make then so the hood is inside the wall - like the top plate in the above picture. The lower plate has the hood sticking out into the room. Just make sure you check and buy the type you want.
 
Maybe it also goes without saying but I would ALWAYS add a fuse at the wall-wart side even if none existed previously. When you are running wires through the walls, its NOT uncommon for a short to occur when a wire melts from heat, or it gets pinched or etc. If it were to short, most wall-warts will just get VERY hot, as they don't have an internal fuse either. In a situation where the wall-wart is in the house, you'd see the smoke or smell the burning, but when they are in the attic/basement, then maybe not. Its cheap insurance.
 
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