Need help stripping.

[beelzerob]

So, I finally opened up the Paladin 1555 toolkit I bought monthes ago, and began to try to figure out how to terminate the RG59 cable I have. I have the right compression fittings, I clearly have the right tools....but the coax stripper that came with the toolset leaves me baffled.

The single tiny page of instructions with the thing weren't much help. I don't even know what model it is, as it isn't labeled on the device anywhere.

I guess ultimately I have to set the blades for certain cut lengths of outer shielding and inner shielding, right? And where do I find those measurements? I thought I saw somewhere that for RG59, it was .25 in of bare inner wire, and .25 in of outer sheathing?

*sigh* I dunno.

 

[fcwilt]

Hi,

How about posting a picture of the stripper? The only thing I need to do with mine is rotate a little plastic guide to the position for the right type of cable. The blades are pre-set to the correct position.

 

[beelzerob]

Ok, I'll try to do that...we just changed ISP's, so I'm not entirely sure how to access our online storage through them.

This stripper appears to have 2 blades, and 3 different set screws. Apparantly to change the settings, I actually have to remove a hinge pin to move the width of the blades.

I have an older, much simpler coax stripper that I've constantly used before this...but I don't think I've ever tried to do RG59, and I'm assuming it has different specs for stripping than RG6.

 

[beelzerob]

Actually, it's this one.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

The best thing to do is just try it out and see what it's giving you with inner conductor length, dielectric length, and outer shield lengths. Then just make one adjustment at a time till you get it right.

The connector's should have instructions on the needed trim lengths.

 

[TonyNo]

Based on the web page you linked to, it's not adjustable.

 

[beelzerob]

It's just preset for a specific size, not fixed there.

Here is the page for the whole series of these tools, and it states there that they're adjustable. It has a hex wrench with it, too.

 

[fcwilt]

Well the site you gave says it's pre-set for F connectors for RG6 so you should be good to go.

 

[beelzerob]

Well the site you gave says it's pre-set for F connectors for RG6 so you should be good to go.

Ya, but I need RG59.

 

[fcwilt]

Well according to the Belden site:

RG-59 sized cable is generally .235" O.D.
RG-6 sized cable is generally .275" O.D.

So begin with the pre-set settings and keep trying and adjusting till you get the desired results. You shouldn't have far to go.

 

[beelzerob]

Oh, I didn't mean so far as it cutting through the outer sheathing...I meant the different lengths of center conductor, of dielectric, and of copper braid...I thought those different sections had to be specific lengths for RG59 vs. RG6.

I guess I'm seeing now that it's the fitting itself that requires those lengths to be certain values, huh? That would make more sense, since the fitting has to connect those sections in specific ways.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I guess I'm seeing now that it's the fitting itself that requires those lengths to be certain values, huh? That would make more sense, since the fitting has to connect those sections in specific ways.

Yes, as I stated in post #5 above:

The connector's should have instructions on the needed trim lengths.

 

[gatchel]

I only use a stripper with the mini coax. Usually a nice razor blade work fine for me, depending on the ends of course.

 

[CollinR]

Rob look inside it and see if there are 3 actual blades or just 2.

The depths you are talking about at the same you shouldn't need to move the blades side to side at all but you WILL need to move them in so they will cut deeper.

You insert the cox into the tool and make the center pin level with the side maked RG59u/RG6 then rotate it and pull the stipper and insulation off the end in one pull.

IF you have a really hard time pulling it off the end you will need to turn each of the two depth adjusters in (clockwise) and try again. You need to adjust those depths per cable manufaturer as different makes have different ODs by slight amounts.

The blade closest to the end of the cable, closest to the side of the tool marked RG59u/RG6 should be set to just BARELY nick into the center pin the smaller the nick the better. If it works well without nicking it all you are are perfect. The second blade in should cut through the outer insulation and barely touch the COPPER shielding. Same as before the smaller the nick the better no nick but still works is best. If you have a third blade you need to back it off (counter closkwise) until it does nothing to the outer insulation.

 

[beelzerob]

Ok, thanks! I'll have to look again...there are 3 adjustment screws, so I would think it means 3 blades.

I know when I tested it on some RG59, it cut through most of the copper shielding...so that clearly must move back.