New ELK Design

[cornellj]

I have been reading and researching for months to figure out a system for my new house. I have decided to go the Elk route and have my shopping list with a few questions for the forum.

I have 10 ground/deck level windows to put sensors on and have 4 outside doors that have hard wired sensors pre-installed.

Shopping List
1. Elk M1 Gold system (M1GSYS1)
2. Wireless receiver. Which one would you recommend and why? I am leaning towards the Honeywell and the 5280L wireless window sensors.
3. Nav Touchscreen (M1KPNAV)
4. Ethernet expansion module (M1XEP)
5. Serial Light/thermostat interface (M1XSP)
6. Siren (ELK-110). Do I need the ELK-44 as well? Couldn't find a lot of info on what is needed for siren/alarm.
7. Strobe Light (SL1C)

Am I missing anything? Any recommended changes or general comments on the config?

Thanks

 

[Del91574]

You don't need the 110. The panel has a built in driver. Any "siren" to be attached to the system can be a speaker as long as you meet the impedance requirements. I like to use the SPF12's in multiples of 4 personally.

As far as RF goes, if at all possible, I'd strongly recommend running wire for 10 windows, it's cheaper and performs better, but barring that I lean towards Honeywell more for variety of equipment, slight edge over GE.

I can't comment on your serial port, because I don't know what you're planning on interfacing it to.

I would suggest spending the money for a M1RB and the 28" Elk can, SWG's and a battery shelf.

 

[tmbrown97]

The Elk 44 is a good speaker for the outdoor siren - to prevent any tampering it can go in the attic pointed out an attic vent... and I agree with DEL about the SP12's indoors, though I use them behind the KP2 keypads flush-mounted - and with several keypads around the house.

To hook up the strobe, you can use Output 3 - otherwise you'll need a relay to use any other outputs.

Many DIY'ers swear by the M1DBH to simplify hookups and troubleshooting, though as DEL will mention it's perfectly doable to hook up the M1 without it. If you're tinkering over time though, it is helpful.

The 28" can is a good fit for the Elk - and I have to second what DEL said about getting the Battery shelf. Also, once you get the parts, do a little bench test to get used to the system and see how it works and how you want to lay it out. I found myself also ordering the gel connectors, the double-sided sticky foam (this stuff sticks like nothing I've seen before), and a few mounting plates and nylon standoffs (yeah, the glides work great too and use less space, but DIY'ers tend to lean towards the mounting plates).

 

[gatchel]

I would also consider installing an M1-XIN input expander if you do the windows and doors hardwired as mentioned above. The reason being that you can't wire 2 wire smokes or temperature sensors to an expander. If you wire your known zones to the expander this leaves zones on the M1 free other items as I mentioned. Not a necessity but something to consider for furtue expansion.