** Output 2 Voltages

[Del91574]

You can drive a siren driver from another siren driver...it'll work, but there's other issues involved.
 
People confuse AC as a pure sine wave and DC being strictly +/-, when in the engineering world, neither is the case.
 
A siren driver output from a panel is essentially AC signal with a DC bias. It may work, but it's the wrong way to fly.

 

[Superjer2000]

You are incorrect.
 
I would not, however, install a speaker like a 73 on OUT2, I'd recommend at least a unit capable of 30 watts. If shorting is a possibility or concern, fuse the output, it's actually a recommended way to install any outdoor speaker/strobe/siren.

Del, two follow up questions, please.

1. The idea of fusing the output seems like a great idea. Can you recommend a type and rating of fuse that would be suitable to this application?
2. I am not the OP but I had an elk 73 speaker that was working fine for a few months die and take my output 2 with it. The speaker was the only thing on that output. If the elk 73 isn't appropriate, what is your speaker of preference? Any thoughts on why elk wouldn't warn against using an elk 73 on output 2?

 

[Mp333]

A siren driver output from a panel is essentially AC signal with a DC bias. It may work, but it's the wrong way to fly.

So Del - Are you suggestion the output be set voltage for output 2?

 

[Del91574]

1. Ohm's law will dictate the minimum size fuse that would be acceptable, but this is only in a "siren" configuration, not using the M1's speaker.
 
2. Sounds like the driver failed, shorted and blew out the audio amp portion of the M1. The 73 is an appropriate speaker for the M1, assuming a single unit is installed.
 
As far as what to set the panel's output as, it depends on what is installed, either speakers or sirens.