RADIANT BARRIER ATTIC GUARD FOIL:Is it worth it?

I'm not sure, Lance. I made the decision for Icynene over two years ago when I was finishing the specs for the home we were building. I did all my research then. I don't remember if it works in all climates since you must have a sealed attic (no venting at all). It's especially good in hot, HUMID, climates like South Florida, where keeping humid air out of the attic is good thing.

I suggest reading the information on the Icynene website and giving them a call. They were very helpful.

Kevin
 
Thanks for the info.. I live in Colorado with a mild climate. I'm around 6600ft and the sun is intense at this elevation even thought the temps are generally mild. I think this could benefit me. Is there any way this won't pay for it self over time regardless of our location?

Lance

Lance,
Assuming your asking just about the radiant barrier.....
The answer will likely depend upon how hot (not cold) your attic is in the summer, and how much you run your AC to cool your house.

In the winter, the vented attic will keep to keep the roof deck cold so no ice will build up along your roofline (the sole purpose of a vented attic roof design). The foil may actually prevent some some small amount of winter solar heat build up....but I would thing this would be negligible (and the snow on the roof would also act as a solar barrier).

More important is summer attic heating. This IS WHERE the foil will keep you attic cooler, and thus your AC will work in a cooler environment (assuming your HVAC system in in the attic) and your attic won't heat your house up as much (so your AC doesn't have to run as much).

Personally, if this was the house I was going to "grow old in", I would use it. If you have more money than time (not me), then skip it and pay for the extra AC run time. It is a trade off/balancing act.

Steve
 
This post is quite accurate. A radiant barrier does work well for conventional vented attics (which themselves make little sense in a hot humid environment), and better yet (for that same hot, humid environment), use the spray foam (which should completely seal the house at only the exterior surfaces like a giant Igloo cooler) and forgo the barrier (which would be covered by foam and negate any effect on the underside of the roof deck). Dang...finally go to use my engineering degree!!

OK, I am a little confused about what would be best for me. I live in a climate that will see 90-100 in the middle of summer with a good amount of humidity (not the jungle, but enough that you feel like you are in a oven on hot days). My house has a 5 ton 2-stage, zoned (4) HP for the main floor. It is located in a vented attic. I know I need additional blown-in insulation in the attic, but am waiting until I finish a few more automation projects.

On the hottest days, the HP will just not cool the house to the level we like as we have a tremendous heat load on the front. So in the eveing, we have to shut down the main zone to be able to cool the bedrooms. I know I am getting some cooling loss from the attic duct work (ductboard & flexibles) and my inital thought was to build some barriers and cover the ducts with insullation and seal the joints with mastic.

Then I watched a home repairr show where they were using the radiant barrier. I have full access and could put the barrier between all the roof joists, but is seems like the heat would just come through the joists. Then I thought about some type of spray foam, but have heard it can cause your roof to heat up and lower your shingle life. We plan on being in this house for another 10+ years, so a roof replacement is probably in my future anyway.

So would insulating my attic with spray foam help cool my attic down enough that it would provide a benefit to the HVAC system?

One other option I have is putting back a compressor in the original system. When we moved into this house, the previous homeowner had replaced one system entirely, but left the main floor compressor and a-frame, but replaced the air handler and furnace. Well the old compressor died and instead of replacng it, we put the zoned system in the attic as the old system didn't heat/cool evenly. We kept the furnace as it was gas and use it as our auxillary heat and try not to use the heat strips in the HP.

So I also thought about putting in a compressor back in the orignal system to use as the baseline and then use the zoned system to tailor each zone.

Any suggestions. I know nothing will be cheap. :(
 
.......
So would insulating my attic with spray foam help cool my attic down enough that it would provide a benefit to the HVAC system?


Spray foam on the bottom of the roof deck should only be done when the whole house (ALL exterior walls) are spray foamed (and the attic/whole house is fully sealed...no attic venting). Adding the foam to the bottom of the roof deck of a vented attic would not help you; you would be much better off adding insulation to the attic floor instead.

Sounds like your HVAC is slightly crippled based on what the last owner did. I would consider this path:

1) Add the radiant barrier to the bottom of the roof deck (esp on the south facing slopes).
2) After that, add enough blown in insulation on the attic floor.
3) After 1 & 2 are done, fixing/adding to your HVAC tonnage may/may not be an issue.
 
1) Add the radiant barrier to the bottom of the roof deck (esp on the south facing slopes).

So can I just add it to the bottom of the roof deck between the joists, or should the entire roof be covered as part of a reroofing project? IOW, can I just use 14.5" strips installed between the joists, or should I use 4x8 sheets installed on the bottom of the joists?

Thanks.
 
If the roof decking material (usually 1/2" thick 4' X 8' OSB board) is good, there is no reason to tear this up on a re-roofing job.

Therefore applying the reflective materials between the joists is about all you can do (and this will still help a "decent" amount). Do they sell it in this fashion....I am not sure.

However, I do recall seeing something about a spraypaint like material (silver in color) that was SUPPOSED to work as a retrofit solution. You may want to do some web research on this approachj. I know very little about this (it may work or may not).
 
However, I do recall seeing something about a spraypaint like material (silver in color) that was SUPPOSED to work as a retrofit solution. You may want to do some web research on this approachj. I know very little about this (it may work or may not).
Is this what you were talking about?
http://www.solec.org/LOMIThome.htm
This is on my list of things to research someday, so I don't know much about it either.
 
I went to home depot yesterday... they sell "reflectix" radiant insulation. (www.reflectixinc.com) The package claims that it is R-4.5 around a water heater and I think I paid around $30.

I followed the directions and wrapped my hot water heater:
  1. The directions indicate that the insulation does better with an air gap... so...
  2. I wrapped a couple small strips around the water heater
  3. Then made a big "sheet" and wrapped it around those strips
  4. leaving a small air gap around most of the water heater
  5. I used scraps to build-up a gap on top
  6. Then wrapped the top
So, I thought "how can I test to see if this stuff actually works?" And it occurred to me... small air gap (~1/4") is about the perfect size for a DS1822.

I hooked up a couple of DS1822's. I wrapped one in some paper towel (to get some conductive barrier between it and the water heater) and shoved it between the radiant insulation and the water heater. I then took another DS1822 and placed it near the first, but on the opposite side of the radiant barrier (not touching the insulation)

I started up LogTemp:
Storage Tank temperature is between 145 and 165 degrees (Side Note: If you get a solar HW system, make sure it comes with a tempering valve!).
The DS1822 inside the insulation is 86.4 degrees
The DS1822 outside the insulation is 69.5 degrees (room temperature)

The quick results: 17 degrees thermal barrier around the water heater. One day when I have more time, I'll try to calculate the break-even with my $30 investment :(
 
Thats cool. I'd be interested to know the break even on this kind of stuff. Keep us up to date on your findings.
 
One more question. How will this affact my tv antenna thats in the attic?

In my new home, they are putting up the roof sheathing right now, and it has built-in radiant barrier on one side. There is a bunch of text on there, including a disclaimer that it will interfere with attic antenna. Not sure if it is true, but I think that they wouldn't put it on the actual product if it wasn't. I'll try to get a pic of the text when I am on site tomorrow, and post here.
 
One more question. How will this affact my tv antenna thats in the attic?
Now or after February 17, 2009? After that date all TV analog signals go away. Most digital stations will broadcast on UHF frequencies. A test might be in order.
 
I'm not sure, Lance. I made the decision for Icynene over two years ago when I was finishing the specs for the home we were building. I did all my research then. I don't remember if it works in all climates since you must have a sealed attic (no venting at all). It's especially good in hot, HUMID, climates like South Florida, where keeping humid air out of the attic is good thing.

I suggest reading the information on the Icynene website and giving them a call. They were very helpful.

Kevin

Kevin,

I am new to South Florida and I am going to be building a house there sooner or later. Where did you learn of a sealed attic? I have never heard of this in the past in the mid atlantic area. I know things are done much differently down there but I have seen plenty of homes with ridge vents. Is the attic conditioned in your scenario? Do you have any reading information I could peruse?

Thanks!

Neil
 
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