Schlage Link

broconne

Active Member
Anyone using the Schlage Z-WAVE compatible door locks? Building a new home and looking at various potential lock systems. Any feedback on that particular door lock?
 
I had my LV guys run 2 conductors to the doorstrike area and plan to use Schlage electric strikes controlled by the Elk. They are like $50, if I recall correctly. . .
 
I was at Menards last week and they had some off brand door strikes for under $20, I picked one up for testing purposes.
 
I had my LV guys run 2 conductors to the doorstrike area and plan to use Schlage electric strikes controlled by the Elk. They are like $50, if I recall correctly. . .


I am not sure how the LV guys could do that in my case. On both side of the door is a solid wood frame surrounded by panes of glass.

Even if I can - I don't really understand "electric strikes". Don't they just let you unlock the door remotely? Is there a way to verify the door is actually locked or remotely lock the door from bed, etc?

Do you have a link to the door strikes you are talking about? That might help me.

Don't get me wrong.. I would prefer to hardwire something.. The idea of wireless bothers me on many levels.. So any tips on door locking would be appreciated.
 
AC or DC doorstrike

12v DC doorstrike

My understanding is that the doorstrike basically releases the latch bolt from the doorstrike in the doorjamb such that the door can be pushed open. So the door opens regardless of the lock status. The lock and bolt can work in the conventional way without regard to the electric doorstrike status.

The electric doorstrikes do nothing to lock the door. You would lock or unlock it manually. In my case, it will stay locked and I will access the door using only the electric strike. (card reader, keyfob, or PIN entry)

I dunno about your door. My front door has the same issues (a double door, so the electric strike would have wires running through the entire width of a door). I plan to put the electric strike on the mudroom door since that is where we will primarily enter/exit the house (mainlevel garage), and it is more "regular" door, easier to wire. The front door is for guests primarily.
 
AC or DC doorstrike

12v DC doorstrike

My understanding is that the doorstrike basically releases the latch bolt from the doorstrike in the doorjamb such that the door can be pushed open. So the door opens regardless of the lock status. The lock and bolt can work in the conventional way without regard to the electric doorstrike status.

The electric doorstrikes do nothing to lock the door. You would lock or unlock it manually. In my case, it will stay locked and I will access the door using only the electric strike. (card reader, keyfob, or PIN entry)

I dunno about your door. My front door has the same issues (a double door, so the electric strike would have wires running through the entire width of a door). I plan to put the electric strike on the mudroom door since that is where we will primarily enter/exit the house (mainlevel garage), and it is more "regular" door, easier to wire. The front door is for guests primarily.


OK - it does seem to work how I envisioned.. I think I am more looking for 100% assurance that my doors are locked, etc... Not sure I would get that from this.

Besides the price, does anyone know if there is anything wrong with the shlage z-wave lock sets?
 
OK - it does seem to work how I envisioned.. I think I am more looking for 100% assurance that my doors are locked, etc... Not sure I would get that from this.

Besides the price, does anyone know if there is anything wrong with the shlage z-wave lock sets?


I put plunger sensors in the Bolt lock holes so the house knows when the bolt locks are secure. I don't think it is worth it to know whether the little knob lock is engaged or not. Bolt locks are easy to monitor and is all hidden...


Vaughn
 
Besides the price, does anyone know if there is anything wrong with the shlage z-wave lock sets?
There are a couple of posts about this lock on the HomeSeer message board. From my understanding not many Z-Wave controllers will control this lock yet as it requires a newer version of the Z-Wave library. In addition I do not believe you can actually lock the door with Z-Wave only enable the ability to lock. It' confusing to me from reading the posts though. Most users are more excited by the upcoming release of the Black and Decker Z-Wave enabled locks which actually lock and unlock.
 
Besides the price, does anyone know if there is anything wrong with the shlage z-wave lock sets?
There are a couple of posts about this lock on the HomeSeer message board. From my understanding not many Z-Wave controllers will control this lock yet as it requires a newer version of the Z-Wave library. In addition I do not believe you can actually lock the door with Z-Wave only enable the ability to lock. It' confusing to me from reading the posts though. Most users are more excited by the upcoming release of the Black and Decker Z-Wave enabled locks which actually lock and unlock.


That does look interesting. Summer might be a bit too late, I had hoped to have the door lock I was using (at least on the front door) put into place while the house was being built. The front door is being stained and I worry that unless this door lock is slightly larger than the other one it will be noticeable that it was replaced. But hopefully, my fears are unfounded.
 
It has been a while since this thread had any activity. I wanted to see if anyone is using any Schlage or other electronic lock solutions?

My front deadbolt is starting to have some key issues and it's a cheap lock anyway so I am looking to replace it, possibly with some sort of electronic lock. A lock/unlock Z-Wave or other HA integrate-able locks would be even better. Either way, I think the electronic locks are pretty nice - where I could assign PINs to various family members, as necessary, and not have to give out keys.

I do have a question regarding the electronic locks though. I currently have a standard locking door knob and a separate deadbolt that are both keyed the same. My question is, when installing one of the electronic systems, do most people simply get an electronic deadbolt and use a non-locking knob/lever? I wasnt sure I saw much benefit to having a keypad entry for the deadbolt if you have to use a key for the knob/lever, and I think it would be both tacky and redundant to have 2 separate keypads, one for the deadbolt and another for the knob.
 
No comments on electronic locks?!?!

Cliffs from above: My question is, when installing one of the electronic lock systems, do most people simply get an electronic deadbolt and use a non-locking knob/lever?
 
No comments on electronic locks?!?!

Cliffs from above: My question is, when installing one of the electronic lock systems, do most people simply get an electronic deadbolt and use a non-locking knob/lever?
I use the new Schlage lever locks with HomeSeer and love them. No more having to get out of bed to check to see if the doors are locked at night.
 
I use the new Schlage lever locks with HomeSeer and love them. No more having to get out of bed to check to see if the doors are locked at night.

http://link.schlage.com/PRODUCTS/Pages/KeypadLever.aspx ??

If so, is there a reason you went with an electronic lever vs. deadbolt?
I used these ( I believe these are the same)
http://store.homeseer.com/store/FE599-505-...K-P713C183.aspx

The lever locks can be remotely locked is the reason I used these. The dead bolts can not. You can only query the lock status on the dead bolts. In addition I do not have any dead bolts on my exterior doors.
 
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