sensor wiring

kurtmccaslin

Active Member
I am planning the prewire on my new house and am now getting to the wire buying stage.   I believe that I have most of the wire spec'd out, but am still struggling on the sensor wiring.  Specifically, I would like to prewire for some temp, humidity, light level, tank level, ultrasonic, etc sensors.   These will be either 1 wire, 4-20ma, or 1-10v.   I have not bought the sensors yet, but would prefer to have a robust infrastructure that will enable me to try various sensors and experiment without changing out the wires.      Therefore, which wire would you run?   Cat 5e, or would it be better with 22/4?   Shielded or unshielded?   Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
 
 
Based on what I have researched, it seems that I can use cat 5e for the 1 wire network-- and it needs to be daisy chained.   The analog sensors would use 22/4 shielded and home run.  Belden 5502FE or equivalent   Does that sound right?
 
Yup here I used solid core sensor wiring into the early 2000's for my DIY stuff; along with using catXX which was 22 gauge solid core.
 
In the early 2000's I paid for an alarm prewire on new construction and the alarm contractor used stranded 22/4 and 22/2.
 
I also quit using cat5e for sensor wiring to my Leviton HAI OPII and went to just 22/4 22/2 except for the keypads, Omnitouch legacy and IP stuff going to the Omnitouch video hub.
 
After that I also went to using stranded sensor wiring. 
 
Googling "Solid versus stranded alarm sensor wiring" indicates favorite methodologies taking precedence more than anything in stone.
 
I see my mistake.

I have been thinking of category cable, and generalizing to all LV cable.

There isn't a need for punching down sensor wires, like category cable conductors.

You're absolutely right, Pete.

Another advantage of the stranded is easier/better soldering. The strands really wick up the solder (I found this out last weekend ;) ).
 
Neurorad said:
Another advantage of the stranded is easier/better soldering. The strands really wick up the solder (I found this out last weekend ;) ).
 
Stranded is also usually more flexible, allowing the wire to wrap around things (such as resistor leads) easier.
 
Yup; I terminated the pre-wire in FL to the OPII can I installed there.  It was easy mostly because of the size / flexibility of the 22/4 & 22/2 wires.
 
The teardown and new build occurred 1999-2000.  The old house was built in the middle 50's.
 
I took my time over a few days doing it. The wires were labeled but I still used a VOM to check them while terminating and watched the loop values with PCA.
 
I also installed an OPII in the neighbors house in FL replacing the legacy alarm panel installed in the 70's (gratis).  House was built maybe in the 1960's?
 
Wiring there was solid core.  I reterminated all of the ends and installed new switches mostly.  The wiring was solid core and more difficult to work with.
 
Noticed too that the original installer (neighbors) used romex to power the panel and terminated the romex to a transformer wrapping the wires around the transformer.  I redid the electrical and moved the romex to the inside of the wall going to a box and outlet.  I connected the panel to the VOIP line and its been working fine now for some 4-5 years (?).  The panel was mounted inside a closet of one of the bedrooms of the home. 
 
Geez thinking now she (neighbor) is now 70; and still jogs miles every morning; very active person.
 
Thanks guys.   I appreciate the help.   Based on the following thread, I think I am going to go with the linear topology and cat 5 for the 1-wire network.    
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/25095-ds18b20-cat5e-copper/?hl=%2Bstar#entry199667
 
I will also run 22/4 stranded to each of the sensor locations for redundancy in case I want to run an analog sensor in the future.   I have read a lot of different opinions about the shielding.  Still not fully sure about which way to go.
 
Just related to my 1-wire network I installed it here around 2005.  I did go initially with a "star" topology versus a "linear" topology.  But in the older home from the 70's I also used the 1-wire star topology for the all 2 wire sensors.
 
148Fig03.gif

 
Due to the mixture of supply voltages (parasite powering) to the sensors I created multiple autonomous networks using Temp08's, Temp05's, 9097's (serial and USB).  (I have multiple outside and inside 1-wire networks - a bit too much such that I have spreadsheets with addresses and locations today that I utilize.)
 
Today its become sort of a hybrid mix of star and linear.
 
148Fig01.gif

 
BTW still have a few little miniature AAG combo temperature and humidity sensors in place that work just fine with only two wires and no extra voltages.
 
(Also have the newer AAG, combo HB and combo Midon sensors in place today).
 
I did start though by using cat5e and terminating all of the connections to standard network patch panels near the 1-wire devices.  These all go to Digi Edgeports and Digi hubs today.
 
Personally never ran any of the 1-wire stuff on 22/4 or 22/2.  I did use the old phone wires that were run in series in addition to the cat5 cabling I put in for the 1-wire stuff there...so I guess it wasn't at the time a pure star topology anyways.  I am guessing with the 22/4 you would utilize devices that were all of the same voltages for the extra two wires eh?  For the room sensors I used just typical RG-6 wall plate covers insulated with small telco exterior wall jacks with a bunch of holes in them.  Not really nice looking for the combo sensors; but very functional.  The HAI combo temperature and humidity sensors are larger.  The externally connected to the Omnistat mounted on wall paintable temperature sensor are nice cuz you do not even see them and they use only two wires to the thermostat (think? forgot now).
 
I never did use any sort of shielded cabling for the 1-wire stuff.  You could also utilize 2/4 wire microphone cable which is shielded.  I ran some of that stuff here originally to provide remote audio stuff.  (still noisy so most of it is not utilized today).
 
I did test and have in place today a combo chinese USB / serial 1-wire device with two mini stereo jacks on it.  It came with standard stereo jack extension cords (shielded) with two 1-wire temperature sensors using same cabling and metal terminated temperature sensors.  I do use it today in the mixture; but went to using my regular 1-wire sensors cutting the cables mostly.
 
You can go with a bit more high end 1-wire stuff from embedded data systems.  I read that it works well; but it is much more expensive stuff to use.
 
http://www.embeddeddatasystems.com/
 
http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/148
 
http://www.midondesign.com/Documents/1-WireApplicationGuide103.pdf
 
http://www.hobby-boards.com/store/pages/1%252dWire-Basics.html
 
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