Troubleshooting 6 Ch Hub

I have been noticing some interesting things since I added the hub into the mix. When we have t-storms that involve higher winds, i will receive a spike in the readings to +/- 90 MPH for one or two cycles and then it returns to what the normal winds are at. I have heard differing opinions about running a 1-wire network in the Star Topology. I am suspecting the star topology is having some effect on the data being returned to the PC and weather display software.

I am trying something with the hub currently but am not sure if it is adviseable....I am going from the PC to "main" on the hub and then using the "passthrough" to the barometer and then out to the rest of the 1-wire network. What I am trying to do is see if all I really need is a power injector instead of the 6 ch hub.

My question(s): is using the hub in this fashion adviseable? I read on HB about the jumpers in the hub having some affect on the power supplied. I have not removed either of them at this point; what power is going to the LAN? What power is provided by switching the jumpers around?
It is no problem hooking up the Hub like you described. Supplemental power is supplied on all the main and aux output as well as the passthrough. It is not supplied on the main input though. The problems you are seeing shouldn't have anything to do with the hub.

Is it only wind that you are seeing spikes? Is there much lightning with the storm you are having?

Eric, sorry for the late response... There was a pretty fair ammount of lightning associated with the storm yesterday, however in other storms I don't think there has been as much lightning (I am usually not at home when they happen) and the same thing happens. In past it would cause the other sensors to flat line after the wind spike and would have the lights blinking out oy sync on the hub. After running through just the passthrough on the hub yesterday all other sensors remained active after the wind spike. You can sort of see it (the spike) under the 24 hour graph located at The graph is only showing 60 MPH but the weather software display showed 94 MPH.

So I do not need to do anything with the jumpers in the hub? That was one of the things I wanted to verify.


No, you shouldn't have to do anything with the jumpers as long as you want the Hub to provide supplemental power.

Did I understand you correctly. After the wind spikes the channels lights on the hub are blinking strangely? If so weather display might be getting confused and need to be restarted and there may not actually be anything wrong on the 1-Wire side.

In the past after the the wind spike reading yes, the lights would be blinking out of sync. That is usually when the readings for everything but the Baro would flat line. What I have seen under normal operation is that the lights on the channels that I have hooked up would be solid and pulse at normal intervals. Whenever there would be an issue, usually with the wind , the lights would blink at random and readings would be flat lined in Weather Display. I use to have an issue with the humidity spiking but Brian took care of that in WD.

I was't sure if this was a Weather Display issue or a 1-Wire issue since I noticed the wind spike isuues after introducing the HUB. I know there are several people using the 1-wire setups with much longer networks than I, and don't recall and post about this situation on the WD forums. There are a couple of things I am going to try as far as data logging goes with WD and see if that helps.

I did notice one thing though relating to power on the 1-Wire LAN...running the HUB as I am now (using only the pass through), the power reading to the Baro is 4.5+V, which is okay however the power reading to the temp/hum is only at 3.7V. That seems a little low to me, that's why I was inquiring about the jumpers and if I need to change them.

Sorry for rambling on here...

Hope you have a great summer holiday. Thanks for the prompt replys and great support.

+3.7v to at the Humidity/Temp is definitely a bit low and is rather strange. All the devices that use supplemental power have on board voltage regulators so I would figure the voltage would be closer to +5v. How long is the cable to this device? Can you measure the voltage across the +12v and GND screw terminals.

I would say the cable is no more than 15 ft from the hub to one side of the sensor. From there it goes up to the roof to the weather station. Near as I can tell the voltage on the pins is between +4.5-5v.

I made another change to the setup. According to what I found using the 1-wire viewer Ch 1 is port B, Ch2=C and Ch3=A, does that make sense? I plugged the PC into main and the main 1-wire into A (ch3) with the baro on Aux 3. everything seems to be found by weather display. What should the light be doing? steady, blink continous, or a pattern like blink..blink..steady..blink...blink...steady?

Also when I moved to this configuration the voltage reading in WD for the Temp/Hum now says 0.00V. Do I need to adjust the jumpers if I am using the Aux channels?

I don't think this is an issue with the hub, rather something I need to work out in WD.

Thanks Again,

The voltage on the screw terminals should be more like +12v (depending on what ac adaptor you are using).

The sequence of the lights on the Hub will depend on how the software accesses the Hub. The lights come on when the main branch of the channel is activated. So what you should see it the light come on briefly when the devices on the main branch are being read but some software doesn't turn the branch back off again after it is read.

Unless there is something wrong with the Humidity board then you should never get a reading of 0.0v. What kind of cabling are you using? Is the jumper on the Humidity board installed? If you use the 1-Wire viewer and look at the A/D page of the DS2438 on the Humidity sensor what does channel 0 read? This is the voltage supplied to the DS2438. I guess I shoud have explained the jumpers better. There are two jumpers on the Hub. One is for +5v regulated and one if for +12v unregulated (or whatever voltage the ac adaptor is supplying). If you remove the jumper then the corresponding voltage will not be fed to the ports. If the jumper is there then all ports (except main input) will get the voltage.