UPB switches vs extreme temperature range

PaulD

Active Member
I need (desire) to put some UPB switches in areas that can expect to reach very low/high temperatures and humidity at certain time of the year. Includes unheated/cooled areas such an attic, garage and a patio. None would get direct exposure to rain but would be exposed to ambient temperature and humidity levels. Here in central Oklahoma, normal temperatures can range from 0 to 110 with excursions outside that range on occasion.

Are any specific brand UPB switches know to be problems in those circumstances? I anticipate using a bunch of the Simply Automoted US240 in most locations due to their flexability with different face plates and would like to include the same switch in these other areas if possible. I can avoid using UPB units in the problem areas if necessary but it would put a kink in my lighting plans. In some cases I can move the switches into a more controled areas if I can pass the WAF (not likely).
 
This is the only temp reference from the manual:

The US2-40 contains a thermal sensor that automatically turns off the
connected load if the switch becomes too hot. This can occur when the
load exceeds the power rating of the switch, or when dimming incompatible
loads or if the switch is in an environment that exceeds the maximum
operating temperature (120°F). If the load begins to turn OFF and ON
repeatedly without command or actuation, then the load must be reduced.


Edit:

I found the data sheet and it says differently:

30-120 Degrees F

0 Deg F might be a little too cold.


http://simply-automated.com/documents/Data...2-40_050814.pdf
 
I have seen the data sheets but I am hoping to get some feedback from actual users who may have experience using UPB switches (any brand) at or outside the normal temperature ranges. In each case I will encounter, I can actually mount the US240 inside the house as part of a multiway switch thus I can deal with the limits for the US240. I had planned to use USR remote switches in the exterior environment with the idea that if they failed due to the environment, they were a lot less expensive to replace than the US240. However, the USR has the same temperature recommendations tied to it.

That is really part of my question...the USR just tells the US240 what to do and does not actually switch any load itself thus why would it be as sensitive to temperature.
 
I have had a UPB plugin module outside for over 2 years until just recently. It worked perfectly, never missed a beat. In the mornings, the sun will hit it straight on, so it gets extremely hot, but the lights it controls only come on at night, so no issues. I am in central NY, so it has seen all extreme temps, and even has been covered with a few feet of snow for several months. The only thing I did was wrap it in a ziplock bag. It isn't a USR, but I assume they all share the same technology/product quality. The only side effect from being exposed to these elements is that it no longer looks white, but yellow/greenish :(.
 
An interesting and timely topic (for *me*; I know it's several months old). I'm going to be putting three or four US2-40s in a pool house. In the winter it will be unheated and regularly exposed to sub-freezing temperatures. I'll let you know how I make out in the spring. :D

Doug
 
The only side effect from being exposed to these elements is that it no longer looks white, but yellow/greenish :D.

You need to put some sun tan lotion on that little guy. They did not use any UV protection in the plastics as it is intended for indoors.
 
I have a Simply Automated switch in a outlet box in my attic which remotely control a ceiling fixture. Since I live in Phoenix, it routinely gets 150 or 160 up there in the summer, and the switch works just fine.
 
I have recently had a switch with a single full rocker that is in direct sunlight inside the foyer. The face plate was white. now it's yellow.

Any of you had this happen. I have been told of the idea of getting a spray with UV protection but I'm concerned that it will be too sticky.

Any ideas could be helpful.
 
I have been told of the idea of getting a spray with UV protection but I'm concerned that it will be too sticky.
Check out http://www.303products.com/tech/index.cfm?...FTOKEN=79845322

- That's what we use on the boat vinyl, but generally known as about the best UV protectant spray you can get... I don't think it'll leave any kind of film or residue you can detect, but I could always test that theory when I get home...

We have experimented with temperature extremes using a number of automated light switch types.

What we learned is that the load is the most important part of the equation. Relays tend to last longer than dimmers and are not as load sensitive. Switches mounted in high temperature environments overheat quicker with a heavy load. So, if you must mount one in this environment oversize it as much as possible. As for cold environments, as long as there is the load is turned on, the switch never fails (assumig there is no problem with humidity). But when the load was turned off for long periods of time, the switch began to operate sluggishly. All brands we tested behaved in much the same way.

Salt water environments is the worst enemy to switches mounted outdoors.

Areas with high humidity come in second to areas with salt water nearby as the most hazardous location to mount switches of any brand.

As for yellowing, pick a switch like the HAI, Web mountain or Simply Automated UPB allows changing of the rockers. OnQ ALC (uses cat5 cable in addition to high voltage) and OnQ PLC (High quality X-10 once known as PCS Scene Master) also has changeable rockers.

God Bless
Tony Stewart
 
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