What to wire before walls are closed
- Thread starter jlokanis
- Start date
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
tanstaff1;
It seems most of your questions were answered by our knowledgable membership! :lol: , but let me answer some specifics from your above post.
I used Cat 5e runs to all wall plates for my network AND phone lines. I then terminated all Cat 5e runs to punch down RJ-45 sockets like the one shown HERE. The module on the left is the RJ-45 punch down blocks. The center module it where the telephone demarcation terminates into. This center module then has RJ-45 sockets which break up the telephone lines so a socket has line1, line2, or lines 1&2 supplied for that jack. You then simply patch what telephone line combination you want to go to an RJ-45 punch down socket.
In cases where you want to run a network, you would patch a switch or hub output to the RJ-45 punch down socket.
As you can see this is nice because you have the ability to use any wall plate for phone or network.
As far as running the cat5e and coax to both sides of a room, this house will be my buddy's family for the rest of their life! You never know how you will use rooms in the future as far as furniture layout and like JLehnert stated, I also hate running a cord along the baseboard, especially in a custom home.
You also will never know future automation needs, thus all the multipair cable. Voice announcements, voice commands, temp monitoring, motion sensors, glass breaks, keypads, sound system control needs, etc... are all future possibilities.
My buddy's home automation system is far from being specified! The only thing we will initially install will be an Elk M1, mainly for security. This is because his budget does not allow for any of the fancy stuff initially (as you can imagine trying to build a custom home. Plus all the contractors estimates are coming in higher than initially thought). Therefore it was very important to "guess" at what technology he would want in the future.
Quad shield is mainly needed to prevent your local "over the air" broadcasts of tv stations from bleeding into the cabling (creating a ghost effect on your picture). Think about it, if a commercial cable TV industry uses this (and it is about $15 more per roll) it must be needed as they surely would not waste the money on it and use the cheaper stuff if they could get away with it.
As far as the garage doors needs, refer to my latest posted How-To and you will see why the need for all the wiring.
The air filter doors will have a magnetic contact to the home automation system will know when they have been opened. Then the home automation system will "remind" the homeowner when it is time to change the filters automatically! (and repeat the process once it sees that the filter door has been opened to change the filters).
All the wiring for multipair was 22 gauge. It was Belden type wiring. Don't know any more details other than that (but could get them from him if needed).
Good idea about running Cat5e in addition to the two pair wiring for keypad locations for future touch screen needs. Also, if money was not object I would get a Russound Cav6.6 whole house audio system and make sure to wire for it (cat5e and multipair speaker wiring. I would install at least two in ceiling speakers for each room AND of course your surround sound system in your entertainment area. It would of course be personal preference if you wanted to have local control of the surround system (from your entertainment cabinet), or have all of this equipment wired in your closet with the russound. Do a search on Russound Cav6.6 and you will see a wealth of information. It isn't cheap but it is THE system to get for whole house audio (wish I had one).
I'm running a separate voice announcement system using the Elk Echo speakers (automated outlet has them for cheap). This is because he will not have a whole house sound system in place at first and I can easily (and cheaply) get voice announcements around the home via the Elk M1 Gold.
It seems most of your questions were answered by our knowledgable membership! :lol: , but let me answer some specifics from your above post.
I used Cat 5e runs to all wall plates for my network AND phone lines. I then terminated all Cat 5e runs to punch down RJ-45 sockets like the one shown HERE. The module on the left is the RJ-45 punch down blocks. The center module it where the telephone demarcation terminates into. This center module then has RJ-45 sockets which break up the telephone lines so a socket has line1, line2, or lines 1&2 supplied for that jack. You then simply patch what telephone line combination you want to go to an RJ-45 punch down socket.
In cases where you want to run a network, you would patch a switch or hub output to the RJ-45 punch down socket.
As you can see this is nice because you have the ability to use any wall plate for phone or network.
As far as running the cat5e and coax to both sides of a room, this house will be my buddy's family for the rest of their life! You never know how you will use rooms in the future as far as furniture layout and like JLehnert stated, I also hate running a cord along the baseboard, especially in a custom home.
You also will never know future automation needs, thus all the multipair cable. Voice announcements, voice commands, temp monitoring, motion sensors, glass breaks, keypads, sound system control needs, etc... are all future possibilities.
My buddy's home automation system is far from being specified! The only thing we will initially install will be an Elk M1, mainly for security. This is because his budget does not allow for any of the fancy stuff initially (as you can imagine trying to build a custom home. Plus all the contractors estimates are coming in higher than initially thought). Therefore it was very important to "guess" at what technology he would want in the future.
Quad shield is mainly needed to prevent your local "over the air" broadcasts of tv stations from bleeding into the cabling (creating a ghost effect on your picture). Think about it, if a commercial cable TV industry uses this (and it is about $15 more per roll) it must be needed as they surely would not waste the money on it and use the cheaper stuff if they could get away with it.
As far as the garage doors needs, refer to my latest posted How-To and you will see why the need for all the wiring.
The air filter doors will have a magnetic contact to the home automation system will know when they have been opened. Then the home automation system will "remind" the homeowner when it is time to change the filters automatically! (and repeat the process once it sees that the filter door has been opened to change the filters).
All the wiring for multipair was 22 gauge. It was Belden type wiring. Don't know any more details other than that (but could get them from him if needed).
Good idea about running Cat5e in addition to the two pair wiring for keypad locations for future touch screen needs. Also, if money was not object I would get a Russound Cav6.6 whole house audio system and make sure to wire for it (cat5e and multipair speaker wiring. I would install at least two in ceiling speakers for each room AND of course your surround sound system in your entertainment area. It would of course be personal preference if you wanted to have local control of the surround system (from your entertainment cabinet), or have all of this equipment wired in your closet with the russound. Do a search on Russound Cav6.6 and you will see a wealth of information. It isn't cheap but it is THE system to get for whole house audio (wish I had one).
I'm running a separate voice announcement system using the Elk Echo speakers (automated outlet has them for cheap). This is because he will not have a whole house sound system in place at first and I can easily (and cheaply) get voice announcements around the home via the Elk M1 Gold.
upstatemike
Senior Member
Also don't forget wiring for future card readers and RFID stuff. Also low voltage wires to the vicinity of major appliances so you can monitor "end of cycle" or "door left open" type sensors.
If you have a basement you will want to wire for sensors to detect flooding, carbon monoxide, natural gas leaks, radon, high humidity.
Besides lots of IR wiring to the main stereo, don't forget to wire for "power on" sensors for the various components.
If you will be using UPS systems on HA or AV equipment be sure to wire a serial or USB line back to the PC that monitors battery condition type alarms.
If you are going to have a wired weather station then be sure the wiring to the sensors is installed. Don't forget that a lightning detector requires special wiring considerations to work properly.
Make sure you run lots of conductors out to the mailbox in case you want to do "speaking mailbox" type automation. 7-conductor direct bury sprinkler wire works well.
Make sure you include wiring to automate closet lights (motion or door switches).
Make sure there is wiring for smoke detectors in every room even if code does not require you to have that many. You may want to install more later for insurance reasons or personal peace of mind.
Be sure to include outdoor outlets for Christmas and Halloween decorations.
Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for ultrasonic pest repellers and such.
In the media room be sure to wire for subsonic "butt kicker" type devices.
Windows need wiring that allows the security system to be armed when the window is left slightly open for fresh air at night.
Don't forget the wiring for automatic drapes/blinds.
If you do temperature sensors in each room allow extra wires in case you want to use combo temp/humidity sensors.
Depending on angles and room arrangement you may need to wire for more than one IR receiver in each room.
Consider putting IR blaster wiring in the ceiling where there is less chance that the blaster signal will be obstructed.
If you have a basement you will want to wire for sensors to detect flooding, carbon monoxide, natural gas leaks, radon, high humidity.
Besides lots of IR wiring to the main stereo, don't forget to wire for "power on" sensors for the various components.
If you will be using UPS systems on HA or AV equipment be sure to wire a serial or USB line back to the PC that monitors battery condition type alarms.
If you are going to have a wired weather station then be sure the wiring to the sensors is installed. Don't forget that a lightning detector requires special wiring considerations to work properly.
Make sure you run lots of conductors out to the mailbox in case you want to do "speaking mailbox" type automation. 7-conductor direct bury sprinkler wire works well.
Make sure you include wiring to automate closet lights (motion or door switches).
Make sure there is wiring for smoke detectors in every room even if code does not require you to have that many. You may want to install more later for insurance reasons or personal peace of mind.
Be sure to include outdoor outlets for Christmas and Halloween decorations.
Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for ultrasonic pest repellers and such.
In the media room be sure to wire for subsonic "butt kicker" type devices.
Windows need wiring that allows the security system to be armed when the window is left slightly open for fresh air at night.
Don't forget the wiring for automatic drapes/blinds.
If you do temperature sensors in each room allow extra wires in case you want to use combo temp/humidity sensors.
Depending on angles and room arrangement you may need to wire for more than one IR receiver in each room.
Consider putting IR blaster wiring in the ceiling where there is less chance that the blaster signal will be obstructed.
markthomas
Active Member
The single most valuable tip thus far is install a conduit. No matter how much you overwire, you will have forgotten something, or have a new need. Conduit will save you a lot of time and hassle, especially if you have a multi-story home.
I recommend a 2" pvc pipe but if you have to go through studs, you may need 2 or three 1" pipes.
I recommend a 2" pvc pipe but if you have to go through studs, you may need 2 or three 1" pipes.
Thanks everyone for the great replies. I am compiling a document with all of this info to help me design my whole system. I will post it here when it is done.
Meanwhile, I have a few questions about some of the ideas and some that were missing. If you know the answers, I would appreciate your insights:
1. DirectTV HD Dish - HD DVR wiring: Do you have one of the new dishes that get the HD signals? If so, how many runs of RG6 is required from the dish to your receiver? I have the standard dish now and one of the DirecTIVO boxes. I plan to keep this box and add an HDDVR box. So, what I need to know is how many runs to have from the Dish on the roof to the wiring closet. How many runs to each box? Where is the multiswitch located? Do I need any special gear?
My goal: to be able to put an HDDVR box in any location I want. Also, to be able to route the HD channel from the box to any other TV in the house, which brings me to question #2:
2. How can I send HD TV around the house. Assuming I have an HD Sat receiver in one location, how can I route HD quality signals from it to multiple HD TVs? What kind of cabling is needed? How can I maintain quality?
3. Someone mentioned automatic lights in closets on motion sensors. How is this best achieved? X10? Hardwired? Please post your solution.
4. Would you use Cat5e or Cat6 for your Ethernet?
5. What is the best place online to get good prices on cable and connectors?
6. What gauge/type wire would you run for speakers (powered off your AV amp. Mains, surrounds, center channel, etc.)
7. Would you run RG6 in the wall to send line level (RCA) signal to a powered subwoofer?
Thanks again for the help!
-John
Meanwhile, I have a few questions about some of the ideas and some that were missing. If you know the answers, I would appreciate your insights:
1. DirectTV HD Dish - HD DVR wiring: Do you have one of the new dishes that get the HD signals? If so, how many runs of RG6 is required from the dish to your receiver? I have the standard dish now and one of the DirecTIVO boxes. I plan to keep this box and add an HDDVR box. So, what I need to know is how many runs to have from the Dish on the roof to the wiring closet. How many runs to each box? Where is the multiswitch located? Do I need any special gear?
My goal: to be able to put an HDDVR box in any location I want. Also, to be able to route the HD channel from the box to any other TV in the house, which brings me to question #2:
2. How can I send HD TV around the house. Assuming I have an HD Sat receiver in one location, how can I route HD quality signals from it to multiple HD TVs? What kind of cabling is needed? How can I maintain quality?
3. Someone mentioned automatic lights in closets on motion sensors. How is this best achieved? X10? Hardwired? Please post your solution.
4. Would you use Cat5e or Cat6 for your Ethernet?
5. What is the best place online to get good prices on cable and connectors?
6. What gauge/type wire would you run for speakers (powered off your AV amp. Mains, surrounds, center channel, etc.)
7. Would you run RG6 in the wall to send line level (RCA) signal to a powered subwoofer?
Thanks again for the help!
-John
The CocoonTech staff and contributors are also working on this task. Hopefully a first cut will be ready in a couple days.
3. Honestly, the best way to do this is some cheap door switches from HD/Lowes. The HA geek in us wants to use magnetic contacts/z-wave switches/and a controller, but in this instance that is really overkill. There are 110V plunger type switches made to go in the doorframe next to the hinge. Open the door, switch comes out, light goes on. Close the door, switch goes in, light goes off.
4. Tough call. I still go with Cat-5E. It has greater availability, and this lower cost. Also, Cat-6 is a PITA to work with IMHO.
6. Depends. If you're running a $699 all in one surround sound system from Best Buy, 14 is more than enough. If you have a little higher end equipment, go to a good 12 gauge wire (and no, I don't mean the hideously overpriced Monster cable stuff).
7. You can.
1. Run four coax lines from the dish to the wiring closet where you can put a 5x4 or 5x8 multiswitch. From there you run either one or two coax (I would recommend RG6/QS for all sat. runs) ,depending on if you have dual turner DVR, to each receiver.
2. The above situation will give you HD sat. in each room you have a receiver in. You can use one receiver and send HD signals to each room, but it's requires additional equipment. You need to run in additional to what you are running for cable/sat a minimum 3 solid copper RG59 (easier to work with) or RG6/U to each location you want HD in. I recommend Belden 1505A (RG59) or 1694A (RG6). You can also get the bundled version of each for a bit more dough. Then you will need a video distribution amp. Prices range widely if you want simultaneous or independent signals at each location. This is one way...there are lots others There are devices that can send HD over 2 Cat5 (Audio Authority), and devices called baluns, but I don't recommend these if you can run the correct coax.
4. Just got done rewiring my house and I used Cat5e. You can get gigabit speeds with Cat5, it's easier to route like mentioned earlier, and while the cable is just a bit less expensive, the termination are a lot less. I don't think the advantages of Cat6 justify the expensive and increased labor.
5. www.westlake-electronic.com is good. hometech.com occasionally had some competitive prices. And believe it or not, HD contractor paks are pretty good when you factor in shipping for online orders.
6. I agree with jlehnert. If you are running just background music for the multiroom audio, 14 or even 16 gauge for runs less than 100 ft would work. For the HT though, 12 gauge all the way.
7. You can make your own subwoofer cable out of the above mentioned Belden cables. Just remember you need solid copper core as opposed to most RG6 you get at the local HD or Lowes. Taking a magnet with you and seeing if it sticks (copper won't) is a good quick test.
--jamie
Made a typo, the AA solution is over 2 Cat5s, not coax
2. The above situation will give you HD sat. in each room you have a receiver in. You can use one receiver and send HD signals to each room, but it's requires additional equipment. You need to run in additional to what you are running for cable/sat a minimum 3 solid copper RG59 (easier to work with) or RG6/U to each location you want HD in. I recommend Belden 1505A (RG59) or 1694A (RG6). You can also get the bundled version of each for a bit more dough. Then you will need a video distribution amp. Prices range widely if you want simultaneous or independent signals at each location. This is one way...there are lots others
There are devices that can send HD over 2 Cat5 (Audio Authority), and devices called baluns, but I don't recommend these if you can run the correct coax.4. Just got done rewiring my house and I used Cat5e. You can get gigabit speeds with Cat5, it's easier to route like mentioned earlier, and while the cable is just a bit less expensive, the termination are a lot less. I don't think the advantages of Cat6 justify the expensive and increased labor.
5. www.westlake-electronic.com is good. hometech.com occasionally had some competitive prices. And believe it or not, HD contractor paks are pretty good when you factor in shipping for online orders.
6. I agree with jlehnert. If you are running just background music for the multiroom audio, 14 or even 16 gauge for runs less than 100 ft would work. For the HT though, 12 gauge all the way.
7. You can make your own subwoofer cable out of the above mentioned Belden cables. Just remember you need solid copper core as opposed to most RG6 you get at the local HD or Lowes. Taking a magnet with you and seeing if it sticks (copper won't) is a good quick test.
--jamie
Made a typo, the AA solution is over 2 Cat5s, not coax
4) I went with Cat5e. Much easier to work with and still great bandwidth for home use.
5) SJs Great Deals. I buy much of my stuff from SJ's and have been pleased with everything (price, quality, delivery).
6) Make sure you run CL3 rated speaker wire if you are in walls. They've reorganized their site so I don't quickly see what I'm using, but something like this...
Monster 14 guage CL3 wire
7) You can run RG6, or you can run high quality 2 wire (not alarm wire, something much better) and make your own connection. I've done this and it works very well. Again, I bought everything I needed at SJs.
Can't help you on running HD video through the house. It's an upcoming project for me, but I've heard of people running 3 coax cables from their automation hub to their TVs to feed the component signals and use a splitter/amp like this. Hopefully someone else here can help.
<edit: I see Royalj7 posted while I was typing this... he explains better how to do the HD video distribution.>
5) SJs Great Deals. I buy much of my stuff from SJ's and have been pleased with everything (price, quality, delivery).
6) Make sure you run CL3 rated speaker wire if you are in walls. They've reorganized their site so I don't quickly see what I'm using, but something like this...
Monster 14 guage CL3 wire
7) You can run RG6, or you can run high quality 2 wire (not alarm wire, something much better) and make your own connection. I've done this and it works very well. Again, I bought everything I needed at SJs.
Can't help you on running HD video through the house. It's an upcoming project for me, but I've heard of people running 3 coax cables from their automation hub to their TVs to feed the component signals and use a splitter/amp like this. Hopefully someone else here can help.
<edit: I see Royalj7 posted while I was typing this... he explains better how to do the HD video distribution.>
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Just for grins here are some pictures of my friend's new house that I'm helping wire before drywall goes up.
He has a dedicated wiring closet where we home ran all the wiring. Blue is Cat5e, yellow is 2 conductor #22 gauge, green is 4 conductor #22 gauge, black is RG 6 Quad Shield coax cable. He also lined the closet with high grade thick plywood so we can screw equipment/shelves to the walls. There is also an electrical outlet towards the bottom back on the left and right walls.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Dedicated Wiring Closet
We just used standard deep electrical boxes for the network/phone, video, and multipair runs and just painted them orange. We also covered them with red tape. This way the electrical inspector knew they were low voltage (electrical inspection passed).
We also did the same thing for the keypads, glass breaks, motion sensors, and Elk voice announcement speakers as well as some camera mounting locations. Saves you from poking into the drywall trying to find wires later. We will just place blank white covers over these boxes until they are needed (after drywall is up).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Network & Video Boxes
We also ran a box for the washer and dryer monitor and placed it right behind the dryer. Also note the cool dryer vent mount he purchased. You have to get this in before drywall is installed.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Washer & Dryer Monitor
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Dryer Exhaust Mounting Box
He has a dedicated wiring closet where we home ran all the wiring. Blue is Cat5e, yellow is 2 conductor #22 gauge, green is 4 conductor #22 gauge, black is RG 6 Quad Shield coax cable. He also lined the closet with high grade thick plywood so we can screw equipment/shelves to the walls. There is also an electrical outlet towards the bottom back on the left and right walls.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Dedicated Wiring Closet
We just used standard deep electrical boxes for the network/phone, video, and multipair runs and just painted them orange. We also covered them with red tape. This way the electrical inspector knew they were low voltage (electrical inspection passed).
We also did the same thing for the keypads, glass breaks, motion sensors, and Elk voice announcement speakers as well as some camera mounting locations. Saves you from poking into the drywall trying to find wires later. We will just place blank white covers over these boxes until they are needed (after drywall is up).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Network & Video Boxes
We also ran a box for the washer and dryer monitor and placed it right behind the dryer. Also note the cool dryer vent mount he purchased. You have to get this in before drywall is installed.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Washer & Dryer Monitor
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Dryer Exhaust Mounting Box
AutomatedOutlet
Senior Member
Great pictures BSR!
Looks like you route most of your wires 'up and over' instead of drilling through studs. What is the best way to route wires? Is there a good guide that covers the basics and meets most codes?
I know the one rule about always crossing AC lines at right angles. Are there any other general rules?
thanks,
-John
I know the one rule about always crossing AC lines at right angles. Are there any other general rules?
thanks,
-John
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
I'm sure the rules will vary from state to state. The wires were run over the studs in the attic. For the runs in the walls we drilled through the studs. Also note there is no basement.
Everything passed inspection and I saw a lot of homes being built here and noticed how they would run their low and high voltage cabling so I knew we were in compliance.
As far as a guide book, I'm not sure. There is the NEC manual, but that thing is a bear to go through and I'm not sure it covers local codes. Maybe our installer members can reply with a better answer.
We indeed crossed all AC lines at 90 degrees with the network cabling. We also did not run down the same side of a stud for network cabling if an outlet run was there.
Everything passed inspection and I saw a lot of homes being built here and noticed how they would run their low and high voltage cabling so I knew we were in compliance.
As far as a guide book, I'm not sure. There is the NEC manual, but that thing is a bear to go through and I'm not sure it covers local codes. Maybe our installer members can reply with a better answer.
We indeed crossed all AC lines at 90 degrees with the network cabling. We also did not run down the same side of a stud for network cabling if an outlet run was there.
