Wireless for Keychain Remote Only

[video321]

I really don't need any wireless sensors, but want to add a wireless keychain remote for the wife for simple arm/disarm and garage control. So, without spending a lot of money I was wondering if this would work and if so how to go about wiring it up and adding rules.

This is the receiver by seco-larm:
SK-910RAV2 - this is marked as low voltage.
Link to PDF

There is also this model which uses standard dry-c contacts:
SK-910RB2Q
Link to PDF

This is the keychain remote with code-hopping:
SK-917T2A

I'm not entirely sure if I could use either receiver or if I need the low voltage model only as my goal is to not control anything directly, but trigger zone inputs on my M1G and let the panel do it with rules. If either of these would work with the M1, what type of zone would I make it? Auxilary, analog, or other?


...just realized this should be in the security section...if a mod would like to move it

 

[mikejrc]

I would say the second one SK-910RB2Q
it looks like you could wire it to a zone, using the NC contacs.

 

[video321]

Thanks, I would set it up for NC and to open the relay for 1 second when triggered by the remote and then base my rules off of that, correct? Do you know what type of zone this would be set as on the Elk?

Also, are there other options I should consider by another manufacturer? I'm willing to pay more if it would allow for future expandability/compatibility.

 

[ano]

In the past I have used one of these:

GE Loop Receiver

It doesn't have rolling codes but the best part is it can be used for wireless sensors and there are billions of those available that support the GE wireless standard. There are also many types of keyfob controllers that work with it, ranging from cheap and basically disposable, to very nice. If you use a proprietary technology, it will be hard and expensive to get new keyfobs when they wear out. If you buy an open technology, then you won't have any problem using the other 6 zones.

Note, you can often find these on eBay, just be cautious because there are two main revs., The older ones whereby you had to remove the connection between the panel and device to program it, and the new one with programming buttons that can be programmed while connected.

 

[electron]

What about those universal garage door opener kits you can find at Sears, etc.? They tend to be pretty affordable, and they have various remote options. I believe they interface the GDO using a NC/NO type contact.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

You can get these in various kits, but you have to assemble them.

http://www.circuithut.com/index.php?/circuit/content/view/full/167

http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1740.html

 

[video321]

Thanks for the tips everyone.
I think I'm going to go with the Seco-Larm receiver with relays.

I do still have a few questions:
1. will any relay-based item work with an input on the Elk M1G; is there a compatibility range?
2. I would think I set the relay output for 1 second (lowest setting on the receiver)?
3. Is there any reason I should wire it NC over NO; advantages/disadvantages?

...just thought about this, but don't what would actually happen:
I set it as NC and the receiver dies on me then the Elk would see the zones as opened and fire off their tasks, right? That wouldn't be good!

4. What type of input should it be set as on the Elk M1G?

Again...thanks everyone!

 

[Lagerhead]

1. Since a relay just provides a switch closure, there is not really a compatibility issue. Any relay with "dry contacts" will work.

2. Good as any, that's what I use. The closure must be longer than the selected response time for the zone, which is (default) 40 ms for "fast loop" and 400 ms for "slow loop". Your zone would be configured "slow loop" by default unless you change it. For a few human-interface zones, I do change the response to "fast loop" because it feels snappier, seems less sluggish.

3. Probably prefer NO, so that a closure causes activation. Also, this way, there is no current burned when idle. Your concern about the receiver is probably unwarranted -- if you use the NC contacts, then so long as the relay is not somehow activated when the received dies, the contacts will still be closed (by definition, NC).

4. 16-Non alarm.. Select NO or NC to match your wiring. In the rules, look for "Not Secure".

 

[video321]

Awesome..thanks, Lagerhead!

Is there any standard for relays; meaning internally are they normally Com/NO or Com/NC?

 

[apostolakisl]

I have an M1G and also wanted a keyfob to arm/disarm and control the garage doors.

I purchased a very cheap ebay, made in China, keyfob and receiver. It required a 5v source which I had one of sitting around. It has 4 outputs on it that I use to close 4 small relays. The relays are conected to 4 zones on the system. The keyfob receiver and relays are non-latching. They use a rolling code and need to sync'd together to prevent code stealing. The keyfob receiver outputs to the relays for as long as you hold the button.

I have rules for each of the 4 buttons.

1) checks the status of each garage door, closes the open ones, chirps, blinks the lights, arms away after 1 minute.
2) disarms and opens wife garage door
3) disarms and opens my garage door
4) disarms and opens 3rd garage door

The receiver has a small antenna and needs to be located near the garage. Mine is in the atic above the garage and works consistently from 50 or more feet away. It has been in service 2 years without incident. We have 3 keyfobs. Total cost was maybe $30

Here is the ebay link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rolling-Code-Superregenerative-RX-Module-Remote-Keyfob-/290368742086?pt=Garage_Doors_Openers&hash=item439b5362c6

 

[video321]

Wow Lou....that is cheap!

 

[apostolakisl]

Yeah, can't beat the price. I bought two extra keyfobs from that guy and 4 relays from somewhere else.

It was a bit of a PITA to solder the stuff together and I had to run a wire to the atic over the garage for the antenna to be appropriately located (the entire receiver unit is there). It would have been easier if they had screw down wire harness, but for $13 I guess you get what you get. I used cat5 which has enough wires to run power plus all 4 of the contacts. It took about 2 hours total.

The keyfobs are not as well made as the car ones, but they haven't broken in two years and have been on my and my wifes regular keychains. They are like $5 a piece so if it does break, no biggie. I would order one or two extra at the initial purchase.

The one and only thing I don't like is the fact that in the dark I can't see the buttons hanging out of my ignition. I have to use the "brail" technique. They do work with 100% success provided you are within 50 feet. They advertise much greater than that, and perhaps it is true if you have a line of sight, but with the keyfob in the car and the receiver in the attic, 50 feet is the 100% working distance.

It is also great having the keyfob to give to a housesitter or contractor. They can't copy it and you don't have to give them an alarm code.

 

[video321]

For those of you who have implemented this...

What do you have the system do when the wife is in the truck goes to arm the system and there are violated zones (window open, etc.) when she hits the arm key and the system won't arm?

 

[Photon]

For those of you who have implemented this...

What do you have the system do when the wife is in the truck goes to arm the system and there are violated zones (window open, etc.) when she hits the arm key and the system won't arm?

I use the consideraly more expensive, and probably no better, remote system based on an M1XRF2G wireless receiver and a few GE crystal keyfobs. There is a window in the garage attic over the garage door behind which I installed a couple indicators. A strobe flashes for five seconds upon a transition to armed status. A steady light illuminates for five seconds upon transition to disarmed status. If the system doesn't arm, then the indicators remain dark.

If a zone is violated, the system may still arm, but I have no provision to report that. We are in the habit of examining the keypad display as we exit the house to determine it is ready to arm. If the system becomes force-armed, that's tough. In that respect, Lou's system is better than mine.

 

[apostolakisl]

I have my system setup to arm with bypass of any violated zones. You could just as easily have the Elk chirp the siren differntly or (assuming you have Insteon/UPb/zwave) flash the lights in some way to indicate that the home is not secure.