Wireless sprinkler control

[neillt]

Here's one for everybody.....

I have a house whose sprinklers are currently controlled via an OmniPro II. Everything work fine.

Now, they have several zones back in the end of their property which are currently manually operated sine there is no wiring to the irrigation manifold. They would like to incorporate these zones into the existing OmniPro II construct, but don't what to trench through their yard to do it.

There is no power out there, just the water line. Does anyone know of a way to do this?

 

[pete_c]

Where does the water come from?
 
You could put one solenoid for all of the zones on the feed to the back property multiple zones.
 
Or buy one of those battery operated hose connected sprinkler timers?  Thinking too that they make them for wireless use.
 
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Battery-Operated-Controllers-s/7892.htm
 
Or a DIY using a little solar charged battery using a wireless multisolenoid switch?

 

[az1324]

I suspect that the reason for multiple zones is because they would draw too much water to be a single zone (and/or they have different runtime requirements).
 
Yes, there are battery operated valves/controllers that either have built in timeclocks or are wirelessly controlled (Hunter WVC).  There is even a solar powered one (DIG Corp).  But to integrate with OPII is going to be the challenge.
 
Also there is no indication of the actual distance involved.
 
You could consider some DIY XBEE type solution but battery life becomes a critical concern.

 

[pete_c]

Here the Hunter all battery operated timer and solenoid system.
 
http://www.hunterindustries.com/sites/default/files/OM_NODE_dom.pdf
 
you could also use the battery operated solenoids that Hunter sells and use one of these to trigger each solenoid remotely.
 
http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148

 

[az1324]

You could also use the battery operated solenoids that Hunter sells and use one of these to trigger each solenoid remotely.
 
http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148

 
That receiver will use around 52Ah per year which does not even consider the power used by the valves.  In contrast the Hunter products say they will operate for a year on 1 9v battery (presumably including valve power) which is approximately 0.5Ah.  So thats more than 100x less power.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

That Hunter remote unit is a nice option; but, just remember that you can NOT use conventional 24 VAC solenoids (valves) with them.
 
Are all of your valves in 'one' area (i.e. you don't have to run wiring between valves if you have a common remote box)?  How many stations are you wanting?

 

[neillt]

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions so far...
 
Yes there are too many sprinklers to turn everything on at once, and to make things worse there are spigots back there that are fed off of the same water line.  So whatever the solution is will need to be at the valves as they exist.  There are 3 locations, one having 2 valves, the others having just one.
 
Distance is no more than 1000'.
 
We saw the Hunter ones as well, and got all excited thinking that was exactly what we needed, but then found out it's no different than a dumb timer with a fancy programming remote.  We lose out on the HAI's rain lockout or time shifting, "party mode" sprinkler inhibit, etc.
 
I'll keep searching, but I fear we are going into homebrew territory.  It really is kind of amazing that no one makes something for this.

 

[pete_c]

Leaving in place the existing 24vac solenoid valves do create an issue.  Guessing that they were installed on the supposition that they would be wired back to the house.
 
Here I have some 10 zones going to one manifold box with all of the solenoids in same said box.  Some of the water runs go in excess of 250 feet from the manifold box.  I do have a supplimental on demand water pump as the pressure was only OK with these distant runs.
 
My sister is covering some 2 acres of grass with some maybe 20 zones and multiple manifold boxes on either side of the home. 
 
Yup 24VAC solenoids would need power.  Here I "helped" somewhat hanging around when the original rainbird system was installed.  That said I paid for extra flexible 1.5" and 2" runs everywhere which I utilized for chases for whatever.  The machine that they used made it look easy and they did do all of the sprinkler runs / my chases in less than a few hours; even going under sidewalks et al.  (I am about 1 acre here in the midwest).
 
A neighbor nearby did install a couple of solar panels (on one lower roof on his house) and feeds two standard 12VDC automotive batteries (cuz he happen to have spare batteries) which in turn is used for his LED landscaping lighting.  The two solar panels are not really that small but not too big.
 
He put the controller in a plastic box outside with a piece of plexiglass for a window such that he could look at the status LEDs.  The batteries are inside a larger landscape sprinkler in ground box.  That said I have seen his system running now for some 3 or more years. 
 
Here I am looking at converting my LED lighting to solar power and still remoting the on and off via the HAI OPII panel as it does today with the UPB but rather use wireless to hard wired to the HAI OPII panel.
 
I think though the LV DC stuff also goes in to wireless control from the mothership.  It would be a bit of reworking of the 24VAC solenoids replacing them with the DC solenoids which appear to be wired to the wireless Hunter controller.  Each of those appear to have their own power supply; such that the wire from the controller to the DC solenoid might be just an on off switch.  There is that piece next which you might be able to find a lower amperage multisolenoid relay wireless switch and connect that to some sort of rechargable solar powered battery.  I think you could also modify the FOB with an antenna to provide you with the needed 1000 foot range. 
 
BTW my little Seagate Dockstar runs off a 12VDC 2 AMP power supply.  It runs independantly but can be dependant on commands via the network.  It has two wires on it.  IE: 1 - NIC interface and 2 - USB to serial to rain8net to sprinkler solenoid.  Still two amps is a bit high. 
 
Thinking Ubiquiti and Tycon also makes these remote wireless for IP camera solar panel plus power supply plus wireless thing for their stuff. Probably the amperage supplied though might not suffice to drive a seagate dockstar?

 

[JimS]

You said don't want to trench...  is that because of the mess or because of hitting things already buried?  Most irrigation companies can plow in the wire or pipe and minimally disturb the yard.  Seems like that would be the most straightforward way to do it unless there are  things in unknown locations to avoid.

 

[neillt]

You said don't want to trench...  is that because of the mess or because of hitting things already buried?  Most irrigation companies can plow in the wire or pipe and minimally disturb the yard.  Seems like that would be the most straightforward way to do it unless there are  things in unknown locations to avoid.

 
This, plus the mess.  There is an unknown septic system right in the middle of it all, other water lines, you name it.
 
As far as solenoids go, the hunter DC latching ones would be a good way to pull it off on low power, it's just how to get that controlled correctly.

 

[pete_c]

Here's a mod to modify a 12VDC wireless remote for 5VDC operation.  You could probably run off a small batter.
 
http://makezine.com/projects/got-wireless-modify-a-simple-12vdc-wireless-remote-control-for-5vdc-operation/

 

[az1324]

I think you could also modify the FOB with an antenna to provide you with the needed 1000 foot range.

Not legal.
 

You could probably run off a small battery.

Wireless systems that are not specifically designed to run off battery power are going to be extremely inefficient in that respect and require lots of compensation in power supply.  Not worth it.

 

[pete_c]

Going off on a bit of a tangent from the OP .....
 
.... this post had me looking for how to convert my 10-12 landscaping LED zones to RF control. 
 
I have switched from 4 large toroidal AC transformers to 4 smaller DIN mounted 12VDC transformers over the last couple of years.  Right now all of them are controlled by one 120VAC UPB wall switch which works fine.  Next steps though are individual LV zone control (from the HAI Panel) before going to powering the whole setup with solar / batteries et al.  In addition the LED illumination is only OK from the IP HD cams (some better than others).  I was going to play with plan old LED illuminators triggered by the analog sensors. 
 
This individual control is also leading me to multicolor LED lamps.  First one purchased was using IR for control.  It's been outside now a few weeks and working well.  I can change colors, pattern and brightness right now of one LED lamp.
 
I did find a one remote for multiple individual RF switches which I will most likely utilize now.  The draw of the RF switches /LED lamps is not an issue; rather the issue is/was the RF individual control of said multiple LV zones.
 

 

[az1324]

thread hijack.  amber alert!

 

[deanpegal]

The wireless controllers are pretty awesome to use. they are very reliable and comfortable to use.