Wiring
- Thread starter judge_l
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wuench
Senior Member
I don't think it really matters as long as you use the same on both ends.
sda
Active Member
From wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA-568B
"The TIA/EIA-568-B standards were first published in 2001. They supersede the TIA/EIA-568-A standards set, which are now obsolete."
The difference is the position of the green and orange pair
I use A around the house. Mainly because I memorized those colors 20 years ago to make patch cables and secondly because Hobby Boards 1-wire uses A.
And like others have said, it really doesn't matter as long as you're consistent.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA-568B
"The TIA/EIA-568-B standards were first published in 2001. They supersede the TIA/EIA-568-A standards set, which are now obsolete."
The difference is the position of the green and orange pair
I use A around the house. Mainly because I memorized those colors 20 years ago to make patch cables and secondly because Hobby Boards 1-wire uses A.
And like others have said, it really doesn't matter as long as you're consistent.
A quote from that same wiki article.
This makes it sound like T568A is the more prefered method. Of course this is a wiki, so take it with a grain of salt (see below). That being said, I use T568B at my house.
I'd also like to know why that last paragraph should make any sense at all. #1 - how would you even know which way your patch cable is wired, and #2 - how in heck could it make a difference in signal strength?
I can hear it now,"Mr. Jones, I figured out your problem.....Seems that someone used a T568B patch cord when they really should have used a T568A patch cord and it killed your signal strength. We'll get it swapped out for you, and everything should be back to normal. You'll be receiving our bill in the mail."
This makes it sound like T568A is the more prefered method. Of course this is a wiki, so take it with a grain of salt (see below). That being said, I use T568B at my house.
I'd also like to know why that last paragraph should make any sense at all. #1 - how would you even know which way your patch cable is wired, and #2 - how in heck could it make a difference in signal strength?
I can hear it now,"Mr. Jones, I figured out your problem.....Seems that someone used a T568B patch cord when they really should have used a T568A patch cord and it killed your signal strength. We'll get it swapped out for you, and everything should be back to normal. You'll be receiving our bill in the mail."
Most installers wire with B, both residential and commercial. I seem to remember something awhile back about T568A actually having some small benefit in reducing crosstalk and interference. I wired my house T568A.
They are compatible, so you aren't losing anything. You just need to make sure that if it's wired 568A on the patch panel, that it needs to be wired 568A on the corresponding jack. You can use T568B patch cords with it just fine. To make a crossover, you are simply wiring one end of the segment 568A, and the other end B.
Also remember that when running Cat5/6, that you need to cross high voltage lines perpendicularly, or if you run parallel with high voltage, they must be separated by at least 12 inches.
They are compatible, so you aren't losing anything. You just need to make sure that if it's wired 568A on the patch panel, that it needs to be wired 568A on the corresponding jack. You can use T568B patch cords with it just fine. To make a crossover, you are simply wiring one end of the segment 568A, and the other end B.
Also remember that when running Cat5/6, that you need to cross high voltage lines perpendicularly, or if you run parallel with high voltage, they must be separated by at least 12 inches.
nightwalker
Active Member
It doesn't really matter all that much as far as a network goes, where it does matter is A is able to use the bl-wh and or-wh pairs as phone lines, B doesn't quite line up. This doesn't matter if you run separate lines for phone and network but it does make it easier later if they are all wired the same way, then no matter what line you choose to terminate where it'll work for phone or network.
TXFlatLander
Active Member
568B is the most commonly used standard in networking in an enterprise, at least what I have been around. That is what I have always used during installs and at my house.
568A is commonly used in telephone installations when using 8 conductor wire due to the alignment of blue pairs and orange pairs in line assignments, line 1 and line 2 respectively, which complies with USOC wiring scheme. The green and brown pairs due not match up natively to the pin assignments, so after that is doesn't comply.
If you wire 568B on one end and 568A on the other, you will create a crossover cable. The TX pair on one side is linked to the RX pair on the other side and vice versa.
In theory, you don't have to use any standard as long as the conductor color used in pin X is used on the same pin on the other side, i.e. you could use pin 1 = blue, pin 2 = green, pin 3 = orange, pin 4 = brown, pin 5 = blue/white, pin 6 = green/white, pin 7 = orange/white, pin 8 = brown/white as long as you wire it the same on the other end of the cable. I wouldn't do this, but it would work.
Continuity (cable mapping) throughout the whole cable really matters when you are running gigabit ethernet due to the fact that two pairs are used for TX and two pairs are used for RX. Fast ethernet only uses 1 pair for TX and 1 pair for RX, so the other pairs are not used, unless you are using PoE. So, I might suggest to invest in a RJ45 cable tester. It can be done with a multimeter or I have heard of people making their own. I cannot speak for these, but a quick search of DealExtreme shows some cable testers (http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.314) on the cheap. I have orderd from them before and it is legit, but it will take about two weeks to get it from China. If you want a reliable tester and toner/probe in one, I would suggest the Fluke Intellitone 200 (http://www.provantage.com/fluke-networks-mt-8200-60a~7FLUK07T.htm) Note: The 100 kit doesn't do cable mapping.
I forgot to add, when you are terminating cable try to keep as much of the shielding on as possible, i.e. don't strip back 3 inches or a foot when terminating to a patch panel. This will cause other cable to crosstalk with one another and higher attenuation. Only strip back as far back as you need to terminate it. Try to maintain your twists when terminating to a panel or jack too, if you can. Straightening all the pairs and terminating will again cause unneeded crosstalk and higher attenuation.
Do not bend the cable at sharp angles. It should be gradual. Like signal15 said, cross electrical lines perpendicular, if possible. Provide adequate support for your cable. Don't let the weight of a bundle put stress on the internal twists of its members. If you screw up the cable some how by cutting it too short or break the shielding and the pairs, don't try to couple it. Just trash it and start over. A properly installed cable with adequate support will last a very long time and provide adequate speeds versus one that was thrown up there and left to degradate.
I would strongly suggest buying reputable cable. Don't use cheap cable. In my opinion, not all network cable is created equal. I would suggest purchasing your own patch cords with a molded all-in-one boot and plug as they generally are better made than what majority of people can make themselves. Again, buy reputable patch cables.
Start with your longest run and work you way to your shortest. You don't want to get 3/4 on a long run after doing your shortest runs first and run out of cable in the box. Again, don't couple it. Start with a new box. One piece runs only.
Sorry for the book. I just see people all the time that throw cable up and wonder why they aren't getting the speeds they want later on down the line or experience network problems.
EDIT: Redacted potentially incorrect information. My apologies.
568A is commonly used in telephone installations when using 8 conductor wire due to the alignment of blue pairs and orange pairs in line assignments, line 1 and line 2 respectively, which complies with USOC wiring scheme. The green and brown pairs due not match up natively to the pin assignments, so after that is doesn't comply.
If you wire 568B on one end and 568A on the other, you will create a crossover cable. The TX pair on one side is linked to the RX pair on the other side and vice versa.
In theory, you don't have to use any standard as long as the conductor color used in pin X is used on the same pin on the other side, i.e. you could use pin 1 = blue, pin 2 = green, pin 3 = orange, pin 4 = brown, pin 5 = blue/white, pin 6 = green/white, pin 7 = orange/white, pin 8 = brown/white as long as you wire it the same on the other end of the cable. I wouldn't do this, but it would work.
Continuity (cable mapping) throughout the whole cable really matters when you are running gigabit ethernet due to the fact that two pairs are used for TX and two pairs are used for RX. Fast ethernet only uses 1 pair for TX and 1 pair for RX, so the other pairs are not used, unless you are using PoE. So, I might suggest to invest in a RJ45 cable tester. It can be done with a multimeter or I have heard of people making their own. I cannot speak for these, but a quick search of DealExtreme shows some cable testers (http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.314) on the cheap. I have orderd from them before and it is legit, but it will take about two weeks to get it from China. If you want a reliable tester and toner/probe in one, I would suggest the Fluke Intellitone 200 (http://www.provantage.com/fluke-networks-mt-8200-60a~7FLUK07T.htm) Note: The 100 kit doesn't do cable mapping.
I forgot to add, when you are terminating cable try to keep as much of the shielding on as possible, i.e. don't strip back 3 inches or a foot when terminating to a patch panel. This will cause other cable to crosstalk with one another and higher attenuation. Only strip back as far back as you need to terminate it. Try to maintain your twists when terminating to a panel or jack too, if you can. Straightening all the pairs and terminating will again cause unneeded crosstalk and higher attenuation.
Do not bend the cable at sharp angles. It should be gradual. Like signal15 said, cross electrical lines perpendicular, if possible. Provide adequate support for your cable. Don't let the weight of a bundle put stress on the internal twists of its members. If you screw up the cable some how by cutting it too short or break the shielding and the pairs, don't try to couple it. Just trash it and start over. A properly installed cable with adequate support will last a very long time and provide adequate speeds versus one that was thrown up there and left to degradate.
I would strongly suggest buying reputable cable. Don't use cheap cable. In my opinion, not all network cable is created equal. I would suggest purchasing your own patch cords with a molded all-in-one boot and plug as they generally are better made than what majority of people can make themselves. Again, buy reputable patch cables.
Start with your longest run and work you way to your shortest. You don't want to get 3/4 on a long run after doing your shortest runs first and run out of cable in the box. Again, don't couple it. Start with a new box. One piece runs only.
Sorry for the book. I just see people all the time that throw cable up and wonder why they aren't getting the speeds they want later on down the line or experience network problems.
EDIT: Redacted potentially incorrect information. My apologies.
TXFlatLander
Active Member
#1: It wouldn't, but a long as each "segment" in the line was terminated the same on either end, it would work. One screw up in the chain and it wouldn't if the RX, TX pairs are effected.
#2: I can only speculate that is because each pair has a varying amount of twists (tight twists, semi-tight, semi-loose, loose) to help attenuation and crosstalk. When A and B are mixed along the same line, it would go over varying amount of twists. Tight twists in segment one to semi-loose segment two could possibly reduce the signal strength. I would take it with a grain of salt.
jkarney
Member
I would strongly suggest buying reputable cable. Don't use cheap cable. In my opinion, not all network cable is created equal.
Sorry for the book. I just see people all the time that throw cable up and wonder why they aren't getting the speeds they want later on down the line or experience network problems.
I,m getting ready to pull cable and I'm going to be using Cat6. I have looked all over at different brands of cable; would you provide so recommendations for some high end Cat6 cable to use. I'm so confused with so many choices and I would like to only do this once.
Thanks
Jim
I would strongly suggest buying reputable cable. Don't use cheap cable. In my opinion, not all network cable is created equal.
Sorry for the book. I just see people all the time that throw cable up and wonder why they aren't getting the speeds they want later on down the line or experience network problems.
I,m getting ready to pull cable and I'm going to be using Cat6. I have looked all over at different brands of cable; would you provide so recommendations for some high end Cat6 cable to use. I'm so confused with so many choices and I would like to only do this once.
Thanks
Jim
I buy my Cat6 from Monoprice. Cheapest site on the net for it, and my buddy brought his tester over and it all easily qualified. I'm getting reliable gig speeds on it also. They are about 1/3 the price of anywhere else I could find it. $77 for 1000ft of 23AWG solid core. I used their Cat5e in my last house, and it worked awesome. Highly recommend their stuff.
wuench
Senior Member
Maybe this website will shed some light....
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Good one!
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