garage opener bulbs keep coming loose

I presume the motor vibration is what's loosening them.  Anyhow, this is a too frequent PIA.  I have to get on a ladder just to re-tighten the bulb.  It happens on both GDO's, so I'm guessing this happens to other people too.
 
What's the solution?  Is there something like a thread locker for light bulbs?  Or will I have to solder in an LED bulb?  Or maybe just screw in an LED bulb, glue it in place, and hope the LED bulb never fails?
 
I suppose that last option might work.  I could use a drop of superglue near the outside, and if I ever needed to reverse it, hopefully I could dissolve the drop of CA  with acetone.  The trick would be to bridge the bulb and socket but not get any on the threads, so it would likely require a gel glue.  In that case, maybe I could just cut the bridge if I ever needed to reverse it rather than use acetone.
 
OK, that's the plan, unless someone knows of a better way?  I would use CREE's "flow through" LED bulb, and so hopefully it will not fail as fast.

I have two Liftmasters with 4 bulbs each (2 aft and 2 stern each).  Over the last 10 years or so have tightened / replaced bulbs a few times.  Not enough times though for me to pay attention.
 
The Liftmaster lamp outer socket piece is plastic and is loosely fit over the inside metal socket part.
 
The current configuration is stock from the Liftmaster installation vendor and never has been tweaked / modded.  I do recall an issue with the deep socket longer bulb versus a short squatty bulb.
 

 
The neighbors had new infants a few years back.  It was a WAF thing to quiet the two GDO's / doors.  He never mentioned anything about replacing loose bulbs though.
 
He rubberized everything on his two Liftmaster garage doors. 
 
I didn't hear anything when the doors opened up or closed.  Guessing too the vibrations were minimized on both GDO's.
 
Thinking he did just call a GDO vendor / installer and told vendor what he wanted.  I do not know how much he paid to have it done or all the specifics of what was done. 
 
Personally I have never used anything like glue or lock tight or solder to keep a bulb in place and have dealt over the years with bulbs (glass) coming off their base (a real PITA).

NeverDie said:

  I could use a drop of superglue near the outside, and if I ever needed to reverse it, hopefully I could dissolve the drop of CA  with acetone.  The trick would be to bridge the bulb and socket but not get any on the threads, so it would likely require a gel glue.  In that case, maybe I could just cut the bridge if I ever needed to reverse it rather than use acetone.

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Rather than using superglue to secure the bulb, try a dab of silicone caulk between the edge of the socket and the bulb.  As long as you don't force it deep down into the threads, it should be easy enough to remove, but strong enough to hold the bulb.

Get some fluorescent lighting fixtures and mount them in your garage ceiling, then buy one of those adapters that changes your socket into a regular plug and plug the new lighting in that...

I had this problem with one socket.
 
Rebent the strip at the bottom of the socket to give some spring back and cleaned the tip of the bulb. The bulb wasn't unscrewing, just making bad contact with the tarnished tip connection on the bulb and the brass strip was flattened from continually tightening the bulb damaging the spring feature of it.

Hmm. Maybe this was the issue with my Chamberlain. Both socket-tip contacts were constantly being etched, and then the traces on the circuit board for the relay contacts fried.

The teflon tape idea sounds very easy to implement.  Is there any chance it might not be safe?

As with any electrical stuff just make sure that the GDO is unplugged. 
 
Relating to using teflon tape make sure its partial such that to allow side the bulb metal contact. 
 
Thinking some GDO light bulb sockets have a tab on the side and some have a socket inside of the plastic. 
 
That and you can make a little paper clip tool bending the end of it such that you can pull the center tab up or side tab out a touch. 
 
You can also carefully bend / compress the inside socket (gently without breaking outer plastic) for a bit tighter fit of the bulb. 

If it were me, I would only put tape on the upper half of the thread near the bulb end to ensure you got a good electrical contact on the lower half.

BraveSirRobbin said:

If it were me, I would only put tape on the upper half of the thread near the bulb end to ensure you got a good electrical contact on the lower half.

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Yes, I think this is what it's going to be.
 
Teflon tape or electrical tape?  In terms of wedging the bulb into the socket, I wonder if electrical tape would work just as well, and at least it shouldn't burst into flames or something.  Teflon might be fine, but I just don't know what to expect from it in terms of how it might perform with electricity and heat.

NeverDie said:

Yes, I think this is what it's going to be.
 
Teflon tape or electrical tape?  In terms of wedging the bulb into the socket, I wonder if electrical tape would work just as well, and at least it shouldn't burst into flames or something.  Teflon might be fine, but I just don't know what to expect from it in terms of how it might perform with electricity and heat.

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The teflon tape will be fine.  Teflon is actually used as wire insulation in some applications.  It withstands high temperatures and has good insulating properties.
 
The one thing that I'm not sure about in this application is that since teflon tape is fairly slippery, I have doubts that it will keep the bulb from coming loose.  But since it worked for @alarmguy, it's worth a shot.
 
I'm not sure electrical tape will work, either.  As the bulb heats up, the glue will soften and the bulb might still come loose.

Closing the loop: the telfon tape worked out great.  I haven't had a loose bulb yet since then.

Given the heat associated with incandescent bulbs I would not want to put anything into contact with the glass.  Yeah, even if it's 'supposed to' be able to withstand the temp.  I wouldn't depend on the random chance of what 'looks like' the kind of tape that might against setting things on fire.  Nor would I want to make the assumption that using a low-heat LED "now" would guarantee against someone going back to an incandescent at some point in the future. 
 
I'd think it better to go the mechanical route of tweaking the metal socket instead.  Might take a bit of disassembly to get at the socket itself, but that seems a lot safer long-term.

LarrylLix said:

I had this problem with one socket.
 
Rebent the strip at the bottom of the socket to give some spring back and cleaned the tip of the bulb. The bulb wasn't unscrewing, just making bad contact with the tarnished tip connection on the bulb and the brass strip was flattened from continually tightening the bulb damaging the spring feature of it.

Click to expand...

 
This has worked for me.