AMP & Passive Subwoofer Recommendations?
- Thread starter ccmichaelson
- Start date
TL;DR
Since the problem seems to be across all, I'd probably start by killing a breaker at a time to see what that does for noise. Of course, as stated, the cable is wrong for the application, but that would be a way to start determining what the source may be.
There really isn't too much difference from a full range amp compared to a sub amp, the difference is if there's a crossover or cut on the signal coming in, which is pretty simple. All pro audio with 2 or 3 way boxes use them.
Since the problem seems to be across all, I'd probably start by killing a breaker at a time to see what that does for noise. Of course, as stated, the cable is wrong for the application, but that would be a way to start determining what the source may be.
There really isn't too much difference from a full range amp compared to a sub amp, the difference is if there's a crossover or cut on the signal coming in, which is pretty simple. All pro audio with 2 or 3 way boxes use them.
ccmichaelson
Active Member
After speaking with "an advisor" with cruthfield.com... I'm told that manufactures don't make passive subwoofers (at least not ones that are free standing/floor type) for residential use. I stubbled across a passive sub model VAS12SUB from VM Audio which is a "pro audio" passive sub. I was going to pair that with a sub amplifier Behringer NU1000 but apparently that equipment is designed to have a mixer board and other crap (e.g. designed for DJ's or studios).
I'm about to pull my hair out
If any of you have a passive subwoofer please share the make/model as well as the amp you're using.
I'm about to pull my hair out
If any of you have a passive subwoofer please share the make/model as well as the amp you're using.
pete_c
Guru
Here my stand alone sub woofers (very old now) is both a passive and powered subwoofer with all of the connections. I have no idea what amp is built in to it today. I have it adjusted for booms and never hear anything else from it. It sits behind and over a bit from the couch; well it is behind the recliner in the corner of the room. Well reading a bit I think it has a low band pass filter on the speaker inputs. Not sure.
I never connected it to subwoofer speaker outs on my amp (well many years ago now) and just ran microphone shielded cable to it. The wall plate to wall plate connection is of the RCA type. It only going from one side of the room to the other side (via the basement). I just wanted to hide it when I redid the family room.
Doing this with a longer run from the basement to the attic and then to the master bedroom I did get hum on the wire and switched it to a cat5e balun which worked but it wasn't used for a subwoofer.
I never connected it to subwoofer speaker outs on my amp (well many years ago now) and just ran microphone shielded cable to it. The wall plate to wall plate connection is of the RCA type. It only going from one side of the room to the other side (via the basement). I just wanted to hide it when I redid the family room.
Doing this with a longer run from the basement to the attic and then to the master bedroom I did get hum on the wire and switched it to a cat5e balun which worked but it wasn't used for a subwoofer.
Another possible solution might be to use a wireless transmitter/receiver pair to get the audio from the Sonos to the active subwoofer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4IOLDM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SJ49ZJQ
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136TRX/JL-Audio-JLINK-TRX-High-Fidelity-Audio-Transmitter-Receiver-Kit.html
I can't speak to the quality of any of these, but they might be worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4IOLDM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SJ49ZJQ
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136TRX/JL-Audio-JLINK-TRX-High-Fidelity-Audio-Transmitter-Receiver-Kit.html
I can't speak to the quality of any of these, but they might be worth a shot.
Is this crazy?
Would it work to use the amplified output from the audio amp and put it through a potentiometer/volume control/attenuator. Whatever you call it you could maybe adjust the signal high enough to compete with the noise but not so powerful as to harm the amp in the sub-woofer?
Would it work to use the amplified output from the audio amp and put it through a potentiometer/volume control/attenuator. Whatever you call it you could maybe adjust the signal high enough to compete with the noise but not so powerful as to harm the amp in the sub-woofer?
mikefamig said:
Good suggestion, Mike. If there is a Cat5e/Cat6 cable handy, running the audio through a balun and over the twisted pair could work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJTAAQ
pete_c
Guru
Thinking in a earlier thread that has been discussed by ccmichaelson where there are no cables near by and no means of removing the subwoofer speaker cables.
Here on my inside speaker wiring / control wiring the wires were only tacked down where they connect.
I also remember something about spraying insulation next to the speaker wires. Not sure if they are tacked inside of the walls.
Personally if the run is short to the basement / attic and wires are thick I would just pull new wires forcing the tacks off.
I say this but didn't do any of this with another home that had the alarm wires predone and outside walls used sprayed insulation and whatever. (IE: thin 22/4 and 22/2 wire versus thick 16/4 or 16/2 wire). Here I left one 16/4 wire in place (in the wire chase) for just pulling more wire from the basement to the attic and have used it a few times over the years. In a custom made wood media center (well built in to a wall) in one house ran PVC chases in cement under the wood cabinet for this same purpose and left a wire there for the purpose only of pulling more cable.
So really probably the best solution is to run a new cable or use wireless.
Here have my zoned system is totally separate from the local MM stuff in one way and not another way. I use an AB switch to switch the front speakers from the Zoned to the local audio speakers. I do have configured 5 subzones in this manner (well too added the garage to the mix).
IE: the master bath and bedroom have connections to the zoned audio plus AB switch connections to the MM receiver in the MB (5.1 sound / TV). I switch streaming in the MB from the zoned system to little touchscreens connected to the MM receiver. (3 tabletop touch screens + 1 in the master bathroom).
Here on my inside speaker wiring / control wiring the wires were only tacked down where they connect.
I also remember something about spraying insulation next to the speaker wires. Not sure if they are tacked inside of the walls.
Personally if the run is short to the basement / attic and wires are thick I would just pull new wires forcing the tacks off.
I say this but didn't do any of this with another home that had the alarm wires predone and outside walls used sprayed insulation and whatever. (IE: thin 22/4 and 22/2 wire versus thick 16/4 or 16/2 wire). Here I left one 16/4 wire in place (in the wire chase) for just pulling more wire from the basement to the attic and have used it a few times over the years. In a custom made wood media center (well built in to a wall) in one house ran PVC chases in cement under the wood cabinet for this same purpose and left a wire there for the purpose only of pulling more cable.
So really probably the best solution is to run a new cable or use wireless.
Here have my zoned system is totally separate from the local MM stuff in one way and not another way. I use an AB switch to switch the front speakers from the Zoned to the local audio speakers. I do have configured 5 subzones in this manner (well too added the garage to the mix).
IE: the master bath and bedroom have connections to the zoned audio plus AB switch connections to the MM receiver in the MB (5.1 sound / TV). I switch streaming in the MB from the zoned system to little touchscreens connected to the MM receiver. (3 tabletop touch screens + 1 in the master bathroom).
ccmichaelson
Active Member
RAL said:
I actually purchased the Amphony wireless kit and tried it from my sonos connect amp to sub and the delay was very noticeable (a.k.a. when you expect the thud and when it actually occurred). So then I got creative and used the existing RG6 I pulled to the TV location and connected the sending transmitter on it and the receiving unit on the subwoofer and it improved a lot but still a slight delay - enough to drive me nuts.
mikefamig said:
@Mike Crutchfield dude is suggesting something along those lines... a Russound P75 amplifier (next to sonos connect amp) and a russound ADP-1.2 adapter (next to powered sub). The theory is to amplify the line-level sub audio coming from the sonos via the P75 and push it through the wall and apparently the adapter handles the conversion back to line level the sub expects...
https://www.russound.com/products/amplifiers/two-channel-stereo/dual-source-amplifiers/p75-two-channel-75w-dual-source-amplifier
https://www.russound.com/products/audio-systems/multi-room-controllers/expansion-devices/adp-1-2-speaker-to-line-level-adapter
drvnbysound
Senior Member
What about doing an in-wall passive subwoofer rather than a floor-standing model?
Most of the passive subs manufactured are designed for in-wall or in-ceiling installation. You'll find more of a selection this way...
Most of the passive subs manufactured are designed for in-wall or in-ceiling installation. You'll find more of a selection this way...
RAL I think that this is a question that you can answer.
How about a low or high pass filter at the woofer? If memory serves me a catalytic capacitor will filter out high frequency signals and pass only low frequency (or it could be the other way around) but either way might it help to experiment with different value caps on the speaker wire at the woofer? A high-pass attached to ground at an AC outlet or a low-pass in series on the wire?
Mike.
EDIT
I don't mean to get into designing electronic circuitry here but I'm thinking that maybe you can buy a low pass filter designed to remove high frequency noise?
How about a low or high pass filter at the woofer? If memory serves me a catalytic capacitor will filter out high frequency signals and pass only low frequency (or it could be the other way around) but either way might it help to experiment with different value caps on the speaker wire at the woofer? A high-pass attached to ground at an AC outlet or a low-pass in series on the wire?
Mike.
EDIT
I don't mean to get into designing electronic circuitry here but I'm thinking that maybe you can buy a low pass filter designed to remove high frequency noise?
drvnbysound
Senior Member
Capacitors become a short at high frequencies, so they will pass the high-freq. Inductors are what you'd be looking for.
There are bunch of online resources for using components to build your own crossover networks; I used to frequent www.the12volt.com a lot. They still have all of the information there, but I don't think the site has gotten an update in quite a while now.
There are bunch of online resources for using components to build your own crossover networks; I used to frequent www.the12volt.com a lot. They still have all of the information there, but I don't think the site has gotten an update in quite a while now.
