Broconne's Wiring Adventure

[felixrosbergen]

No opinion on smoke. CO, etc since i don't have any of these other than whatever the builders put in which is not 'integrated'.

The LV Contractor I got for the pre-wire used GRI contact (same model for doors and windows). It has a pigtail which i'm not very happy with if i ever have to replace it. I woudl defientely follow beelzerobs advise and go for the sensors with terminals on them.

I have Anderesen 2000 or 3000 series windows (can't remeber) and the sensor is drilled through the bottom of the frame. There's a screwhole in the bottom of the window sash where you can screw the magnet onto (so no drilling into the window frame).

I questioned the LV Contractor and building about the window warranty and they said because there's no drilling into the window sash there's no warranty issues. Apparently drilling into the frame is not an issue (at least thats what they told me).

 

[broconne]

No opinion on smoke. CO, etc since i don't have any of these other than whatever the builders put in which is not 'integrated'.

The LV Contractor I got for the pre-wire used GRI contact (same model for doors and windows). It has a pigtail which i'm not very happy with if i ever have to replace it. I woudl defientely follow beelzerobs advise and go for the sensors with terminals on them.

I have Anderesen 2000 or 3000 series windows (can't remeber) and the sensor is drilled through the bottom of the frame. There's a screwhole in the bottom of the window sash where you can screw the magnet onto (so no drilling into the window frame).

I questioned the LV Contractor and building about the window warranty and they said because there's no drilling into the window sash there's no warranty issues. Apparently drilling into the frame is not an issue (at least thats what they told me).

Which sensor did beezlerob suggest? I just searched and didn't find that.

 

[beelzerob]

Right here. It was a single-word link a page back, so maybe hard to find.

 

[Photon]

MavRic said: "I questioned the LV Contractor and building about the window warranty and they said because there's no drilling into the window sash there's no warranty issues. Apparently drilling into the frame is not an issue (at least thats what they told me)."

I suggest you contact the mfgr of the windows; not the LV contractor. I called the company that built my windows, and the reply was real simple: Any modification voids their warranty. My decision to not drill was further reinforced when I couldn't find anywhere to drill that wouldn't compromise some function of my vinyl windows. The entire area under the sill is actually a drain. The areas to the sides are pretty well occupied with the slides. The sash might have enough space to hide a magnet, but the contact side will have to be surface mounted. I've tried a couple different ways to install some really tiny Tane contacts, but I really don't care for the look of the surface mount. Last winter when the window mfgr volunteered to upgrade my sash seals at no cost to us I was rather pleased I hadn't drilled any part of the system.

Regards. . . . John

 

[broconne]

Right here. It was a single-word link a page back, so maybe hard to find.

Thanks! That does look easier to setup that pigtails.

 

[broconne]

Does anyone have any recomendations for glass break sensors?

I am considering the bosch

This one is available from AO

Anyone used them? A different brand to recommend?

 

[broconne]

Current Sensors
-----------------

I read a bit on current sensors here on CT. It seems that the mamac series has been used by some here. Are there others to consider? In an older thread someone mentioned having to splice an electric cord and running only the black side through the sensor? Is that still required - or if you have a split type sensor are you OK?

Are the fixed 1 AMP modules good enough for most instances (dryer/refrigerator/etc)?

Here is the MAMAC sensor I am considering: Probably going with the split core variable

Any other current sensors to consider? Are these 100% reliable?

 

[Squiddy]

Current Sensors
-----------------

I read a bit on current sensors here on CT. It seems that the mamac series has been used by some here. Are there others to consider? In an older thread someone mentioned having to splice an electric cord and running only the black side through the sensor? Is that still required - or if you have a split type sensor are you OK?

Are the fixed 1 AMP modules good enough for most instances (dryer/refrigerator/etc)?

Here is the MAMAC sensor I am considering: Probably going with the split core variable

Any other current sensors to consider? Are these 100% reliable?

Even if you have a split core sensor, you will still need to run the hot (black) wire through it, otherwise the magnetic field will be cancelled out. The advantage of the split core type is that you won't need to cut the monitored wire to get it through the sensor. I wish I could find another cheap auction with those sensors because I would like to put a few more in.

Where are you going to buy yours from? Where do you plan on putting the one for the oven? I would like to add one to my oven as well but am not sure where I would put it other than in the panel in the basement.

Yes, the 1 amp sensors will work fine. From my How-To post, remember that you can wrap the monitored wire through the hole more than once to lower the "tripping" point of the sensor's contacts. If you make two wraps of the hot wire through a 1 amp sensor, it will trip at 0.5 amps.

 

[broconne]

Current Sensors
-----------------

I read a bit on current sensors here on CT. It seems that the mamac series has been used by some here. Are there others to consider? In an older thread someone mentioned having to splice an electric cord and running only the black side through the sensor? Is that still required - or if you have a split type sensor are you OK?

Are the fixed 1 AMP modules good enough for most instances (dryer/refrigerator/etc)?

Here is the MAMAC sensor I am considering: Probably going with the split core variable

Any other current sensors to consider? Are these 100% reliable?

Even if you have a split core sensor, you will still need to run the hot (black) wire through it, otherwise the magnetic field will be cancelled out. The advantage of the split core type is that you won't need to cut the monitored wire to get it through the sensor. I wish I could find another cheap auction with those sensors because I would like to put a few more in.

Where are you going to buy yours from? Where do you plan on putting the one for the oven? I would like to add one to my oven as well but am not sure where I would put it other than in the panel in the basement.

Yes, the 1 amp sensors will work fine. From my How-To post, remember that you can wrap the monitored wire through the hole more than once to lower the "tripping" point of the sensor's contacts. If you make two wraps of the hot wire through a 1 amp sensor, it will trip at 0.5 amps.

Uh oh.. Thanks for posting. I was just going to put it behind the oven. I had a 22/2 pulled there to attach to one of these sensors.. However, I am 100% positive my builder would flip out if I were to try and put one of those boxes you made back there before they installed the oven..

I guess for this one I could monitor it near the panel -- or go with a brultech. If I go with the brultech I will have wasted a bit of money on current sensor prewires since I think I have separate circuits for dryer, washing machine, dishwasher, oven, etc.

I think there is no safety concern with a box like this -- but I am sure my builder would void his electric warranty if I did this -- not to mention potential inspection problems..

 

[broconne]

Current Sensors
-----------------

I read a bit on current sensors here on CT. It seems that the mamac series has been used by some here. Are there others to consider? In an older thread someone mentioned having to splice an electric cord and running only the black side through the sensor? Is that still required - or if you have a split type sensor are you OK?

Are the fixed 1 AMP modules good enough for most instances (dryer/refrigerator/etc)?

Here is the MAMAC sensor I am considering: Probably going with the split core variable

Any other current sensors to consider? Are these 100% reliable?

Even if you have a split core sensor, you will still need to run the hot (black) wire through it, otherwise the magnetic field will be cancelled out. The advantage of the split core type is that you won't need to cut the monitored wire to get it through the sensor. I wish I could find another cheap auction with those sensors because I would like to put a few more in.

Where are you going to buy yours from? Where do you plan on putting the one for the oven? I would like to add one to my oven as well but am not sure where I would put it other than in the panel in the basement.

Yes, the 1 amp sensors will work fine. From my How-To post, remember that you can wrap the monitored wire through the hole more than once to lower the "tripping" point of the sensor's contacts. If you make two wraps of the hot wire through a 1 amp sensor, it will trip at 0.5 amps.

Uh oh.. Thanks for posting. I was just going to put it behind the oven. I had a 22/2 pulled there to attach to one of these sensors.. However, I am 100% positive my builder would flip out if I were to try and put one of those boxes you made back there before they installed the oven..

I guess for this one I could monitor it near the panel -- or go with a brultech. If I go with the brultech I will have wasted a bit of money on current sensor prewires since I think I have separate circuits for dryer, washing machine, dishwasher, oven, etc.

I think there is no safety concern with a box like this -- but I am sure my builder would void his electric warranty if I did this -- not to mention potential inspection problems..

Does anyone make an outlet or even an external box with a current sensor on it? I imagine if something was UL listed I could have it back there.

 

[Neurorad]

Are current sensors available for the breaker box? Maybe just outside the breaker box, or somewhere else along the route? Doesn't have to be at the oven.

How difficult would it be to pull the oven out after installation, and then put it right back? I think it's just heavy, maybe a couple screws. Couldn't be more than 500 pounds or so...

 

[dutchyn]

Are current sensors available for ... just outside the breaker box, or somewhere else along the route?

That's what I did in our new house. I have two CS-GNG and two CR9380 sensors mounted near the breaker box to monitor the clothes washer, the clothes dryer, and two freezer outlets. Because I needed to cut the outer sheath so that only the black goes through the rings, I had to mount the sensors in closed metal boxes (I used 6x6 junction boxes) to pass inspection.

How difficult would it be to pull the oven out after installation, and then put it right back? I think it's just heavy, maybe a couple screws. Couldn't be more than 500 pounds or so...

Our oven is 238 pounds, and the appliance people figure they need two guys and a lift to get it in. I don't want to try pulling that thing out.

 

[broconne]

Are current sensors available for ... just outside the breaker box, or somewhere else along the route?

That's what I did in our new house. I have two CS-GNG and two CR9380 sensors mounted near the breaker box to monitor the clothes washer, the clothes dryer, and two freezer outlets. Because I needed to cut the outer sheath so that only the black goes through the rings, I had to mount the sensors in closed metal boxes (I used 6x6 junction boxes) to pass inspection.

How difficult would it be to pull the oven out after installation, and then put it right back? I think it's just heavy, maybe a couple screws. Couldn't be more than 500 pounds or so...

Our oven is 238 pounds, and the appliance people figure they need two guys and a lift to get it in. I don't want to try pulling that thing out.

I am looking at the installation instructions a bit more. A few things I didn't note before. There is no plug for the oven - it is to be wired directly into a junction box from a piece of 48 inch conduit that comes with the oven. This is a double oven and the base needs to support at least 275 pounds - so I am guessing the oven weighs close to at least 200. Also, it is 240v - 40amp. Not even sure how I would monitor that now with the current sensors? I guess one per leg?

Either way, sounds Like I will be monitoring this one near the breaker panel. oh well, If the only mistake I make on this house is a $35 extra 22/2 I will be happy


Edit: This is the oven GE Double Oven

 

[dutchyn]

There is no plug for the oven - it is to be wired directly into a junction box from a piece of 48 inch conduit that comes with the oven.

I'm planning to put in a 30A range plug for our oven, so that an electrician isn't needed to install/remove.

Not even sure how I would monitor that now with the current sensors? I guess one per leg?

I'm not monitoring an oven, but the dryer is a similar 240V device, and I'm monitoring only one circuit (black not red), and I'll make sure its the one corresponding to the motor rather than the air heater element. As far as I know, the red and black wires are swappable in the dryer plug.

 

[sic0048]

Keep in mind that a current sensor is only going to let you know if the current draw is over the set amount. It isn't a power measuring device like the Brultech. It's either going to be reading the device as on or off. Due to this fact, you would probably be OK just monitoring 1 leg of the oven because it will probably be enough to let you know if it is on or off.