DJK New Construction

I didn't go with Centralite because I believe that their system is up to 48 loads. I have 150ish.

I went with a Centralite Elegance system with 96 high voltage loads and 16 low voltage. The max limit is 384. I installed the system myself.

Brian
 
66 Blocks are designed for 22 to 26 AWG solid. I am using 22/4 for the contacts, motion sensors, etc. I haven't pulled wire yet, but will let you know how it works.

I used primarily 66 blocks and euro style connector blocks for the 18 gauge. The only problem I had with the 66 blocks was some 24 gauge wire I ordered that came in multiple colors, it turned out to be aluminum conductor and wouldn't punch down.

Brian
 
emillika,

Saturn keypads (low WAF on the Neo).

dkemme,
I'm runninig a bunch of 3/4" conduit to all the room drops. Also 2-1/2" conduit from closet to attic.
 
Well,

I hope to be pulling wire over the Christmas vacation. Have a few more speaker brackets to put up and a little more conduit to install. I'll try to get some more pictures in the next few weeks as it gets a little more interesting.

Can't wait to get on the other side of December 21, so that the days start getting longer instead of shorter!
 
All lighting control wire is now pulled. 70 locations pulled to 4 different enclosures. One 50" Channel Vision (enclosure on the right) and three other 14" enclosures. The plan is to terminate the C-bus using bridged telephone modules from Channel vision.
 

Attachments

  • 50_enclosures.JPG
    50_enclosures.JPG
    73.5 KB · Views: 320
All lighting control wire is now pulled. 70 locations pulled to 4 different enclosures. One 50" Channel Vision (enclosure on the right) and three other 14" enclosures. The plan is to terminate the C-bus using bridged telephone modules from Channel vision.

In a word, wow! More pictures please. Are there going to be tours for in-area Cocoontechers when the work is done?
 
DJK,

The project looks like a pile of fun. Out of curiousity why don't I see anyone use dim rail termination blocks that are used in the Commercial automation industry. I have used some of the Euroblocks, they are cheap but don't have flexibility in terms of jumpers and grounding. During the design and implementation of a commercial control system last fall, i gained and great deal of respect for the easy of terminating and control wiring on the DIN rails. These were used mostly for terminating 18awg wires however but keep the following terminator modules in mind on your next project. They could come in handy for certain things, also i really like the ability to have different colors.

Rated for 26-12 awg @ 600v depending on the item.

3 circuit block Automation Direct - triple level termination block

single level termination block - Automation direct - termination blocks pdf
 
For my upcoming redesign I am actually looking a terminal blocks. I made a contact at Ehx last year that has ones with internal jumpers. I thing alot of people stat away from them because of price and you have to buy pretty large quantities (at least 50 or 100 a pop).
 
For my upcoming redesign I am actually looking a terminal blocks. I made a contact at Ehx last year that has ones with internal jumpers. I thing alot of people stat away from them because of price and you have to buy pretty large quantities (at least 50 or 100 a pop).

Does anyone have any pictures how these terminating blocks look on a rail? They look like they could really help clean up the wiring can.
 
I considered terminating with the DIN rails, but at 347 terminations, they were too expensive, plus, I wanted it contained in a single 50" canister for organization.

Hope to get some pictures up with the next posting.
 
About 1/2 way through pulling the cable runs, which started from longest to shortest. Wow, what a job, so far about 12 man days.

In addition to the great writeups on CocoonTech, I learn a few additional things:

1. Covering the metal in the trusses was VITAL, so that the wire would not snag, bind up, or get nicked. I used extra PVC piping nailed in place which worked great (see picture bridging1).
2. Pull strings suck. They wrap around in the cable, then the next pull is really hard due to the wrapping. We quickly learned that after a pull was done, use a fish tape to lay down the next pull ON TOP of the previous pull. We used a 150' rope from Lowes, and were carefull not to pull too hard.
3. For the corner, I installed a 3" PVC conduit with the it's back cut out. After each pull, the wires are pulled out the back of the corner, so that the conduit is "clean" for the next pull going around the corner. I guess that I could have used pulleys, but for some pulls, we are 24+ wires (see picture corner1).
4. For the spools, I created a jig buy drilling holes in some 2x4's and then putting conduit or rebar (what ever was laying around) for the axle. This works OK, but it's much better to put some nails in the face of the 2x4 so that the axle can be popped out for replacing spools (see picture spools and boxes1)
5. Beldens station wire packing in plastic sucks. It's so coiled that it really wants to wrap around it's nearest neighbor, making it hard to pull just one.

It's gonna be a great feeling when all this is done!

Will post the pictures when some more space can be allocated on the CT server :)
 
About 1/2 way through pulling the cable runs, which started from longest to shortest. Wow, what a job, so far about 12 man days.

In addition to the great writeups on CocoonTech, I learn a few additional things:

1. Covering the metal in the trusses was VITAL, so that the wire would not snag, bind up, or get nicked. I used extra PVC piping nailed in place which worked great (see picture bridging1).
2. Pull strings suck. They wrap around in the cable, then the next pull is really hard due to the wrapping. We quickly learned that after a pull was done, use a fish tape to lay down the next pull ON TOP of the previous pull. We used a 150' rope from Lowes, and were carefull not to pull too hard.
3. For the corner, I installed a 3" PVC conduit with the it's back cut out. After each pull, the wires are pulled out the back of the corner, so that the conduit is "clean" for the next pull going around the corner. I guess that I could have used pulleys, but for some pulls, we are 24+ wires (see picture corner1).
4. For the spools, I created a jig buy drilling holes in some 2x4's and then putting conduit or rebar (what ever was laying around) for the axle. This works OK, but it's much better to put some nails in the face of the 2x4 so that the axle can be popped out for replacing spools (see picture spools and boxes1)
5. Beldens station wire packing in plastic sucks. It's so coiled that it really wants to wrap around it's nearest neighbor, making it hard to pull just one.

It's gonna be a great feeling when all this is done!

Will post the pictures when some more space can be allocated on the CT server :)


Where are the pictures?
 
Back
Top