Elk design review

S

Shiltsy

Member
Hey all...  I've been researching and planning HA and security for our new home build for the better part of a couple years.  As we get close to breaking ground in 2015, I've started really planning out the systems in detail.  Here is a little background on our build and my high level plans.
 
As is usually the case with these projects we started hitting our budget a lot quicker than expected!  Control4 will have to be done by a dealer, but I'm pretty technical and will likely tackle the Elk system by myself.  I'm actually going to get a panel and put together a lab to get started soon.
 
House
4500 finished sq ft.  Two story plus finished basement.
3 car attached garage
3 egress doors on main level
1 egress door lower level
haven't counted the windows yet, but quite a few
 
Security System
Keypad in mudroom / Control4 interface for arm/disarm from other locations
Door sensors
Motion sensors cover rooms with entry points (rather than drilling windows to install flush mounted wired sensors)
Water leak detection
Wireless door locks (use Control4)
Exterior motion detectors (turn on lights with motion near external door)
Surveillance cameras (use Control4)
Connect bi-directionally with Control4
Flexibility to extend system functions in the future
 
Home Automation
Lighting
Audio with Control4 / Sonos
Limited video distribution
Dedicated home theatre
 
 
Those are the high level requirements so far.  I've also attached an initial structured wiring plan.  Please take a look and let me know your thoughts.  Am I missing any important functionality?  Anything I should be thinking about differently?
 
 
Curious, is there a reason that you are going with a Control4/Sonos system... and not Russound, which could be integrated with the Elk?
 
EDIT: You could also control your wireless door locks via Elk too (e.g. Zwave).
 
Great feedback so far, thanks.

I will check on the humidity vs water sensors and update to 22/2 wire.

The theory is to use Elk for security and Control4 for audio and other home automation tasks. I read some threads about whether to put the smart locks in Elk or Control4. I believe the theory was that you could easily arm and lock all from C4 with one macro.

I will probably add an MBR keypad, but security functions should be accessible from the c4 interface in that room already.

Incidentally, I'm watching for a good deal on an Elk panel. I found an m1 gold that says it is a "2006 model". I don't see any specific model number. Have there been any substantial hardware upgrades to the panel itself so that I should find a newer one?
 
Shiltsy said:
I found an m1 gold that says it is a "2006 model". I don't see any specific model number. Have there been any substantial hardware upgrades to the panel itself so that I should find a newer one?
Click to expand...
 
 
Other than firmware upgrades, the M1 hardware has not changed over the years.   You can download the latest firmware and upgrade it once you have a panel and register it with Elk.
 
So when it says it is  a "2006 model" gives you an idea of when it was manufactured.   I think I saw the eBay auction where you saw this, and it included a 12V SLA battery in the kit.  After 8 years of sitting on the shelf, the battery will be dead, so plan on replacing it.
 
You'll find that all the authorized dealers sell the M1 and its components at suggested retail price.  There are quite a few unauthorized dealers that sell at lower prices, but Elk cautions that buying from an unauthorized dealer invalidates the warranty.  But at least in some cases, they do stand behind the warranty anyway.
 
I guess my point was why have 2 systems, when the Elk could do those functions and provide better overall integration? Elk also provides the ability of "macros" via Tasks and Rules.
 
For example, if you integrate your locks with Elk you can have Elk check to see if the locks are secure when the system is armed. If not, Elk can automatically lock them. I have rules setup to do this when I set my alarm to Stay mode at night, or Away mode when I leave.
 
With Russound integration you can have the system automatically turn on when you come home, on weekdays after work - Elk knows it's you via user code.
 
These are obviously just brief examples, but the power of integration is intangible. Personally, I don't want to have to manage separate systems unless there is a GOOD reason to do so. YMMV.
 
Shiltsy said:
Motion sensors cover rooms with entry points (rather than drilling windows to install flush mounted wired sensors)
Click to expand...
 
 
I like to think of different types of contacts and sensors as providing layers of protection.  As such, I wouldn't depend so heavily of PIRs.   I like to have window contacts since they allow you detect an intrusion before someone enters the house.  Glass break detectors can provide another layer of protection.
 
Your diagram shows the elk being connected to the internet through a switch. I ran a wire directly between my gateway and M1 so that it is not dependent on the switch having power in a power outage. It's just one less thing that you have to back-up.
 
Mike.
 
You may want an output expander (M1XOVR) to control your garage doors (unless the C4 is doing this).  
 
And I agree with the above you really should consider window sensors.  The tane pills are one unobtrusive option.   But it will allow you to secure your home in night/stay mode.   If you only rely on motions, then in night/stay mode you will either not be able to arm those sensors and those entry points will not be secured, or you will not be able to enter those rooms without setting off the alarm.  Also you will know if you left a window open when arming the system.  
 
At the very least pre-wire for them.
 
Good points on the window sensors. I've seen the Tane pills and they would hardly be noticeable. Having PIRs everywhere isn't exactly clean either. We will have painted enamel trim and window jams. Would I just have 22/2 run and what's the best way to terminate and connect the Tane sensors at the window?

Good call on the smokes. What kind of wire is used for smoke detectors?
 
Yep 22/2.  There are two kinds of tane sensors, with leads or terminals.  With the leads you would crimp them to your wire with b-connectors.  With terminals you just attach the wire, but the screws are visible.   They both just stick to the jamb with an adhesive backing, as do the magnets.   There are also recessed sensors, but you need to be careful how you install these as you do not want to pierce the window seal and you may void the window warranty.  Someone else with more experience may need to chime in on how best to install something like that.
 
Smokes typically require "firewire" 18/2 or 18/4 wire with a red jacket depending on if you go with 2-wire or 4-wire smokes.  If you are going to have fire protection on your Elk you may also consider CO and maybe GAS sensors as well.  Smokes do not get installed in Kitchens/Baths/Garages/Attics.  For those areas, if desired, you would use heat detectors only.  Also talk to your inspector ahead of time as some jurisdictions have a hard time understanding LV only fire protection installs, it should be legal under code but they often get hung up on 120v w/ battery backup as that is what they are used to.  In theory LV is equivalent as the panel has a battery backup.  There is a lot of info (and a few lively debates :) ) around here on smoke installs.
 
I definitely agree with the above. I'd much rather be alerted as soon as the window is opened or penetrated (glass break - something else to consider), vs finding out via motion once someone is already in the house. In those cases, seconds really do matter. I'll say, that I wouldn't necessarily remove the motions either though. I wish I had wired for more of them - you can use them as triggers for automated things too... 
 
If I open my front door at night it automatically turns on my foyer light - this uses the door sensor, not a PIR, but you get the idea. I have a friend who is planning to automate a couple of lights for the times when his kid gets out of bed at night.
 
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