fix severed outdoor Time Warner cable coax line?

[Del91574]

I'll assume the minimum bend radius of RG6U is 3 inches. So probably 45's instead of 90's. Probably necessary for pulling anyway. Or, for pulling purposes, should I use 22.5's?

I'll assume blue solvent welds instead of primed. Goes much faster!

Coax is 5X diameter minimum, with a "perfect world" being 10X (never happens or is practical). Maximum number of bends can add up to 360 degrees or 4 90's before you need to put in a pull box.
 
Most of the times the conduit can be put in with only 2 90's. Grey pipe flexes significantly and can be "flexed" around a lot of obstacles. You're better off heating and slightly bending instead of installing fittings.

 

[NeverDie]

Is there a recommended burial depth for conduit?

 

[Del91574]

18"

 

[LarrylLix]

Is there a recommended burial depth for conduit?


18" for ground not driven over. (as DEL above)
 
24" (IIRC) for vehicle areas.
 
CEC,  YMMV

 

[NeverDie]

When it comes to the soil that's immediately adjacent to the house, though, I've heard I should avoid disturbing any of the soil that's deeper than the footer.  So, bottom of the footer becomes a potential limit on depth.  Not sure how far from the footer  before it's no longer an issue.  I would WAG 10 feet is safe for going 24" deep, though in my case 18" would be plenty since it's not a vehicle area.  5'?  3'?  Probably depends on soil type as to what the cut-off is.  Would be interesting to know what distance is considered safe distance for  even worst case soil. 
 
What does CEC stand for?  "Check Established Code"?
 
Anyway, until I get all this sorted, I'm using extension cord connection covers to keep the hacked connections dry.  I've been able to irrigate the area to keep the grass alive, and so far, so good.  You probably can't tell from the photo, but they're resting on thick limestone that I'll have to demo my way through to reach the recommended depth.  I'm tired of jack hammering and pulling out bolders with an SUV, so I ordered some ecobust demolition concrete.  It should arrive tomorrow.  With summertime heat now here, it's time for a different approach.  I absolutely gotta get this done before July, when the heat gets even worse.

 

[mdesmarais]

Canadian Electrical Code? As opposed to NEC for the US...

 

[NeverDie]

Is this what DEL meant by grey pipe?
 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-2-in-x-50-ft-Non-Metallic-Liquidtight-Conduit-6007-24-00/202262417?N=5yc1vZbohlZ1z113de
 
At the moment I'm trending toward grey PVC conduit, only because it's less expensive:

 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67496/100117340?N=5yc1vZbohlZ1z113de
On the other hand, it will need fittings, and so there's cost to that.  It is  readily available though.
 
 

 

[JimS]

I think what Del was saying was just put in slight bends either with the flex of the rigid PVC conduit or by heating and bending instead of fittings.  If you need more radius than the stock bends you can heat bend those too.  Heating and bending PVC is not too difficult although a form of some sort of helps to keep an even radius.
 
As for connecting conduit to a NEMA enclosure I would like to know the best way to do that as well.  I have a project that needs that.  All the conduit connections will be on the bottom side so making them water tight shouldn't be an issue.  I figured I could just drill holes and use male threaded PVC fittings with a nut on the inside. I could use some sort of sealant but it doesn't seem necessary.

 

[Del91574]

You heat the pipe to put bends/sweeps in as needed, however it's pretty amazing how much the conduit flexes on it's own. I wouldn't use sealtite unless absolutely needed.
 
Fitting to a NEMA box, assuming no threaded opening, would be a connector and locknut. Personally, I don't see the need for a NEMA box....you're better off having something open with gravel or similar underneath it unless you're pulling to a pedestal.
 
Any splice or junction should either be made above ground and accessible or made and then put in a scotchcase kit.

 

[JimS]

My application is completely different than what the OP has.  Didn't mean to hijack the thread but since connection to a NEMA box was mentioned I wondered how to do it properly - thanks for the info.  Mine is a control box (both line voltage and low voltage control) on a pedestal - in another thread it was mentioned I should use a NEMA box.
 
The idea of a box with open bottom is interesting.  You are talking about buried, right?  I have often thought that in at least some situations, underground conduit might be better off with a drain hole or some way to keep water from building up in the conduit.  But if it is open then does it have to have direct burial cable in it (so single strands of THWN is not ok)?  I once had a conduit run that went down a slope.  One of the joints leaked and I ended up with water running out the lower end and into a breaker panel when it rained.  I figured out a way to determine the the height of the leak to minimize digging and fixed the joint but it seems like a bad situation if another leak happens.

 

[Del91574]

First, to go with what Larry is mentioning, LV is 18" for everything except a vehicular traffic roadway (constant traffic). Actually, LV can be put as close as 6". 24" is only for commercial traffic areas.
 
In your case Jim, there are differences between weatherproof and NEMA standards/applications. I can't say based on application as to what is or would be needed in your case, but usually it's easy enough to get into a PVC box/enclosure or bell box with the pipe....or for that matter, get above grade and transition into an enclosure. It would depend also on the application, but I was referring more towards a handhold type of box to bring the conductors through then transition from there to the final enclosure or what have you.
 
Unfortunately, in the case of water and a sealed conduit, it'll always be a losing battle and at some point the pipe is going to fill. Where and how much is the million dollar question.

 

[NeverDie]

I'm trending toward finding some kind of bushing for the RG6U and using that to seal the penetration of the PVC cap by the RG6U.  I'm surprised there aren't o-ring type compression fittings to seal directly against the jacket of the RG6U, but I didn't see any.  It seems compression fittings are limited to conduit pipes or hoses.  I could do a stubby length of that, but then I'd have to fill it with a sealant.  That's doable, but it's more work and not as simple and elegant.
 
If I were to go for a NEMA box, I'd face the same issue, because I'd want it to be direct burial at grade level.  The utility hookup boxes are ugly enough, and I'd rather not add to the eyesore.

 

[Del91574]

Fittings aren't recommended as the conduit is likely to be re-entered.

Duct seal would be what I'd recommend.

 

[tmbrown97]

I'm not sure if this would help much but some variant of these can be used to create a water tight seal where a cable enters a utility box.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Arlington-Industries-3-4-in-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connector-LPCG757-1/100171642

 

[NeverDie]

It turns out the correct answer is: don't bother with a conduit.
 
TW ran a new line without even ringing the doorbell.