How to fasten wires before drywall?
- Thread starter mrshanes
- Start date
tmbrown97
Senior Member
2 points... don't expect to be able to communicate much with the actual drywallers.... at least in my half of the country, you have to be bilingual. The good news is, these guys kick ass - they're unbelievably quick. The bad news is that there's no time for interpretation, so your intentions must be blatantly clear. The nail method is great; but the toner will likely be required as well. They'll have the drywall done faster than you can even walk through the house.
Point 2 - a little drywall repair is no big deal; just give yourself a few days for wiring tie-out before you schedule the painting... seriously - this is really important... do whatever you have to do to explain to the wife that you need several days to tie out your wiring before you paint. It's hard to plan around, but cutting into an unpainted wall is 1000 times easier than cutting into painted walls... if you've painted them already, you'll probably never get around to finishing the project.
Point 2 - a little drywall repair is no big deal; just give yourself a few days for wiring tie-out before you schedule the painting... seriously - this is really important... do whatever you have to do to explain to the wife that you need several days to tie out your wiring before you paint. It's hard to plan around, but cutting into an unpainted wall is 1000 times easier than cutting into painted walls... if you've painted them already, you'll probably never get around to finishing the project.
Sandpiper
Active Member
As a professional alarm installer, we do this all the time. The previous posts have a lot of good pointers. I just want to chime in on how we do it, with the advantages and disadvantages.
Our first preference is the nail trick. The nail should be on the narrow edge of the stud facing into the room where you want the device placed. Nail loosely but firm enough to hold. If done properly, it will not slow down the drywallers. I have had these nail buried at times. They will push them back and just cover them up. The other thing about this trick is that the drywallers placement may not be exactly where you intended. We hardly ever have a problem, but if you want perfection in placement, this is probably not the best, unless you are willing to punch and new hole, fish the wire to the new hole, then patch. If the wire gets buried, we use a tracer to find it, then cut a hole and fish it.
The second trick we use is use when we want the wire out the drywall between two studs like for the keypad. For this we use a piece of plastice pipe strap stapled between the studs. Then place the wire through one of the holes in the strap. Usually the drywallers do very well in placing the hole properly.
The third method, for most precise location is to use outlet boxes. This can be used for keypads, glass breaks, speakers etc, but not for motions. We use this mostly for speakers.
The fourth is to nail a cut piece of cutoff stud sideways between two studs. Then drill a hole and place the wire through it. The HVAC guys use this a lot for the thermostat location.
Our first preference is the nail trick. The nail should be on the narrow edge of the stud facing into the room where you want the device placed. Nail loosely but firm enough to hold. If done properly, it will not slow down the drywallers. I have had these nail buried at times. They will push them back and just cover them up. The other thing about this trick is that the drywallers placement may not be exactly where you intended. We hardly ever have a problem, but if you want perfection in placement, this is probably not the best, unless you are willing to punch and new hole, fish the wire to the new hole, then patch. If the wire gets buried, we use a tracer to find it, then cut a hole and fish it.
The second trick we use is use when we want the wire out the drywall between two studs like for the keypad. For this we use a piece of plastice pipe strap stapled between the studs. Then place the wire through one of the holes in the strap. Usually the drywallers do very well in placing the hole properly.
The third method, for most precise location is to use outlet boxes. This can be used for keypads, glass breaks, speakers etc, but not for motions. We use this mostly for speakers.
The fourth is to nail a cut piece of cutoff stud sideways between two studs. Then drill a hole and place the wire through it. The HVAC guys use this a lot for the thermostat location.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
... apparently my method isnt an "approved" action by all, but fortunately it worked out great for me... no wires were missing or damaged 
That said, I didnt mention anything about my keypads, but I did them similar to my in-wall speakers. I simply used some 1" electrical staples to keep the 22/4 from extending beyond the stud bay (and possibly pinched between the stud and drywall) and ran the wire about 2' longer than where I planned to place the keypad. Once the drywall was up, I cut my double gang hole where I wanted to place the keypad, reached my hand inside the wall, and pulled out the wire.
For me personally, I was doing all the wiring to a "spec home" that the majority of home owners never get to do, so I wanted to make the LEAST amount of work for the drywall guys as possible. This is the biggest reason I left all my wiring hidden (speakers, keypads, etc.) where I knew I would be able to easily access the wire from the hole that was going to be cut in the drywall anyway. As mentioned in my previous post, for my window, door, and motion sensors I simply drilled through the studs and routed the wires to exactly where I wanted them (inside the window and door casings) and left the wire exposed for the drywall guys to see. They cut "V" notches into the drywall that pressed against the windows, and mudded the gap that was remaining. The guys who did the finish work on the trim and door casings drilled holes through the door casings and left the wire for me to finish up.
Unfortunately, I didnt get any pictures of the wiring job as I left it, prior to drywall. I had a total of 2 days (Sat and Sun) to do all the wiring in my home, before the drywall guys started on Monday. But this is one of the finished pictures that I have taken since:
That said, I didnt mention anything about my keypads, but I did them similar to my in-wall speakers. I simply used some 1" electrical staples to keep the 22/4 from extending beyond the stud bay (and possibly pinched between the stud and drywall) and ran the wire about 2' longer than where I planned to place the keypad. Once the drywall was up, I cut my double gang hole where I wanted to place the keypad, reached my hand inside the wall, and pulled out the wire.
For me personally, I was doing all the wiring to a "spec home" that the majority of home owners never get to do, so I wanted to make the LEAST amount of work for the drywall guys as possible. This is the biggest reason I left all my wiring hidden (speakers, keypads, etc.) where I knew I would be able to easily access the wire from the hole that was going to be cut in the drywall anyway. As mentioned in my previous post, for my window, door, and motion sensors I simply drilled through the studs and routed the wires to exactly where I wanted them (inside the window and door casings) and left the wire exposed for the drywall guys to see. They cut "V" notches into the drywall that pressed against the windows, and mudded the gap that was remaining. The guys who did the finish work on the trim and door casings drilled holes through the door casings and left the wire for me to finish up.
Unfortunately, I didnt get any pictures of the wiring job as I left it, prior to drywall. I had a total of 2 days (Sat and Sun) to do all the wiring in my home, before the drywall guys started on Monday. But this is one of the finished pictures that I have taken since:
Bzncrewjr
Active Member
Resurrecting an old thread.
I want to prepare for sheetrockers.
Vertical studs I think I got figured out. LV mud ring where I know I need something (key pad, keystone jack). Let the drywallers cut it out.
Places where I'm not ready for a box right away, I marked the location and coiled the wire and stapled it to the stud. I can cut a hole and pull the wire out later if/when I'm ready for it.
This leaves me with ceiling wires for speakers. I pulled speaker wires to every room, however I may not use them all. So I was thinking only when I'm actually ready to mount the speakers to then cut the speaker holes. Above the ceiling will be 3 feet of blown in insulation with those small fiberglass puffs ready to rain down on me when I cut my holes.
So here's my wacky idea:
Staple thick plastic between the studs where my speaker wires will be close to where the drywall will end up. Fish the wire under the plastic and zig zag it back and forth between the studs. Plastic barrier keeping insulation above it.
Let the drywallers close it all in.
Let the insulation guys fill the attic with those fiberglass popcorn thingys.
Now, when I'm ready to install my speakers, I locate the wire, cut a big hole and hopefully the plastic will keep the insulation from pouring down on me like tribbles.
Pull the wire down and attach it to my speaker and keep the insulation up there above the plastic. I could use cardboard or something else as a barrier so when I cut the speaker holes, I'm not looking right into 3' of blown in insulation.
Crazy? Stupid? Am I making this more complicated?
--Russ
I want to prepare for sheetrockers.
Vertical studs I think I got figured out. LV mud ring where I know I need something (key pad, keystone jack). Let the drywallers cut it out.
Places where I'm not ready for a box right away, I marked the location and coiled the wire and stapled it to the stud. I can cut a hole and pull the wire out later if/when I'm ready for it.
This leaves me with ceiling wires for speakers. I pulled speaker wires to every room, however I may not use them all. So I was thinking only when I'm actually ready to mount the speakers to then cut the speaker holes. Above the ceiling will be 3 feet of blown in insulation with those small fiberglass puffs ready to rain down on me when I cut my holes.
So here's my wacky idea:
Staple thick plastic between the studs where my speaker wires will be close to where the drywall will end up. Fish the wire under the plastic and zig zag it back and forth between the studs. Plastic barrier keeping insulation above it.
Let the drywallers close it all in.
Let the insulation guys fill the attic with those fiberglass popcorn thingys.
Now, when I'm ready to install my speakers, I locate the wire, cut a big hole and hopefully the plastic will keep the insulation from pouring down on me like tribbles.
Pull the wire down and attach it to my speaker and keep the insulation up there above the plastic. I could use cardboard or something else as a barrier so when I cut the speaker holes, I'm not looking right into 3' of blown in insulation.
Crazy? Stupid? Am I making this more complicated?
--Russ
I don't think it's crazy but it will cost you a lot more wire length and also expose the wire to someone putting a nail into or drilling a hole into the drywall. I also reduces the thickness of the insulation depending on where you place the plastic sheet.
Mike.
EDIT
Maybe just run the wires against the ceiling joists as you would AC wires and take a lot of photos so that you can find them later but that doesn't help with the insulation.
Mike.
EDIT
Maybe just run the wires against the ceiling joists as you would AC wires and take a lot of photos so that you can find them later but that doesn't help with the insulation.
Bzncrewjr
Active Member
I can certainly tack the wires along the ceiling joists. But that's not where I want the speakers. I want the speakers between the joists.
My biggest concern is when I cut a big 8" speaker hole that all that (36") of blown in fiberglass insulation will tumble down on me while I try to dig out the wire from the joist.
While I lay trying to go to sleep at night I come up with crazy ideas. The plastic would prevent a deluge of Tribbles when I cut open the ceiling.
The sheetrockers could have at it and seal up the ceiling without worrying about my wires that would be safe between the joists on top of the plastic. I don't need/want the wire poking out yet until I'm ready to mount the speaker.
Maybe cardboard instead of plastic between the joists with my speaker wire poking through the middle would allow me to use a hole saw to cut the speaker hole out of sheetrock without going into the insulation. Then my wire should be waiting for me to pull down keeping insulation safe above.
I'm a horrible artist, but here's my best attempt at a drawing
--Russ
My biggest concern is when I cut a big 8" speaker hole that all that (36") of blown in fiberglass insulation will tumble down on me while I try to dig out the wire from the joist.
While I lay trying to go to sleep at night I come up with crazy ideas. The plastic would prevent a deluge of Tribbles when I cut open the ceiling.
The sheetrockers could have at it and seal up the ceiling without worrying about my wires that would be safe between the joists on top of the plastic. I don't need/want the wire poking out yet until I'm ready to mount the speaker.
Maybe cardboard instead of plastic between the joists with my speaker wire poking through the middle would allow me to use a hole saw to cut the speaker hole out of sheetrock without going into the insulation. Then my wire should be waiting for me to pull down keeping insulation safe above.
I'm a horrible artist, but here's my best attempt at a drawing
--Russ
At the speaker location, install a batt of regular fiberglas insulation. issue solved.
The insulation is going to be over the top of the joists in the case of blown in/attic. It's never raked out even to the joists. I've yet to experience blown in between floors (sound insulation)
The insulation is going to be over the top of the joists in the case of blown in/attic. It's never raked out even to the joists. I've yet to experience blown in between floors (sound insulation)
Bzncrewjr
Active Member
So maybe I'm assuming too much. I seem to remember the contractor who installed skylights in my present house cut into the attic and had tons of pink stuff fall out. Then again, that was a big hole vs. an 8" speaker hole.
I may just zig zag the speaker wires between studs and let them rock it up. When I'm ready, I'll measure/locate and cut my hole and pull the wire back out.
--Russ
I may just zig zag the speaker wires between studs and let them rock it up. When I'm ready, I'll measure/locate and cut my hole and pull the wire back out.
--Russ
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