[How-To] Monitor The Status of Your Washer/Dryer/Furnace

Clouds are clearing, skies are blue again...

BSR: Reviewing the thread, I think you're exactly right. In my last post, I confused the whole 18 vs. 16 gauge discussion in the last few posts as relating to the dry contact cable running back to the Elk or whatever. Thanks for spotting this! So I CAN just run 22/4 as planned for this type of application then... phew, a bit of confidence restored. :)

Lagerhead: Always good advice, and thanks for clarifying the chassis vs. transmission ratings. Makes perfect sense and I think helps me with another question, but I'll leave that for another thread.

That said, this leaves me unclear with respect to my original question. What is meant by "300V or 600V rated" when speaking of the dry contact cable? Does that somehow refer to the jacket material of the 22/4 so that it may be in the presence of high voltage? Thanks guys, I'm almost there...


exactly the insulation rating of cable is 300 V or 600v.
 
exactly the insulation rating of cable is 300 V or 600v.

And this rating is required because your low voltage "status" wiring will enter the same box as your high voltage "power" wiring. Multiple wires entering one electrical box like this must all be rated at least as high as your highest voltage present.

As soon as I get a chance, I'm going to go buy a larger gauge extension cord and replace what I'm using now. Better to be safe than sorry when dealing with electricity.
 
Thanks for clarifying guys. I bought a spool of 22/4 today and specifically checked that it is 300V rated... which it is.
 
I have a technical question: is it necessary to run only one conductor through the sensor coil? I know that other current sensors (like the ones that electicians use to indicate whether a wire is "hot") can detect current with both conductors still jacketed. I would rather not put the sensors into boxes, which code requires if the outer sheath is open.

Also, for Canadians, I got some CS-GNG from Greystone Energy in Halifax -- reducing shipping costs, customs pain, and currency exchange grief. They seem to work just fine.

Chris D.
 
I have a technical question: is it necessary to run only one conductor through the sensor coil? I know that other current sensors (like the ones that electicians use to indicate whether a wire is "hot") can detect current with both conductors still jacketed. I would rather not put the sensors into boxes, which code requires if the outer sheath is open.

Also, for Canadians, I got some CS-GNG from Greystone Energy in Halifax -- reducing shipping costs, customs pain, and currency exchange grief. They seem to work just fine.

Chris D.

For these type they require that only one wire be run through them. If you run both it will cancel out the current detected. On a further note that the more times you wind the wire around it will increase the sensitivity of the device.
 
I would rather not put the sensors into boxes, which code requires if the outer sheath is open.
One solution is to take the whole cable intact through the sensor opening, but connect only one of the wires in the cable, leaving the others disconnected and so electrically dead.
 
For these type they require that only one wire be run through them. If you run both it will cancel out the current detected. On a further note that the more times you wind the wire around it will increase the sensitivity of the device.

Sigh; boxes it is.
 
can you take a screenshot and PM me the link (or email it to me at electron@ domain of site) please?
 
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