With the number of network based HA devices increasing each year (even wireless is being used), I'm surprised there's not a discussion on how to improve networking reliablity, especially for wireless networks.
If you're like me, you probably have several devices networked in your home (ip based cameras, serial port servers, ir controllers etc...) and some may be wireless B or G (such as the new global cache wifi based controllers or one of the many wireless ip based caameras available).
In the past, I've bought several routers, but was always disappointed by each in terms of wireless reliablity. Some routers, such as the Linksys/Cisco E3000 that I tried, would even drop or experience a large slow down when using ethernet cable! I also tried two high end routers last year made by D-Link, only to return both of them for dropped connections.
As it turns out, there are ways to greatly enhance consumer grade router reliability. Here are some tricks I learned and have verified to work over the last month after running speed tests each day and even leaving my HA webpage open on each machine to see if the connection would drop.
1. Don't rely on off the shelf firmware, pick a well known router and use an open source firmware that supports it such as dd-wrt:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/
For example, I had numerous slow downs when using the new E3000 router by Linksys. My internet speed would frequently drop from 2-3Mbits/sec to only 100kbits/second! To fix the speed issue, I'd have to reboot the router twice a week. It wasn't until I discovered a firmware for it under a support thread (see dd-wrt's forum) that this problem was fixed for good. I've been running DD-WRT on the router ever since and it's never dropped speed.
The old router (the one the E3000 replaced) would constantly drop the internet connection entirely; it was a Linksys WRT120N. Before retiring it, the WAN connection became so bad it would drop once per day! After my success with DD-WRT on the E3000, I installed a mature DD-WRT firmware on it and the connection ran fine! I only disconnected the updated 120N to place the E3000 back in service as it has gigabit LAN, but the 120N ran better than it ever had using DD-WRT.
2. If you must use wireless for whatever reason and live in a condo or congested area, use a free survey tool to see what channel others are on and pick a free channel.
I found this greatly increased my wireless connection to where it never drops. This is the free tool I use since it's supported under Windows 7 and also gives a 5GHz survey is inSSider (also opensource):
http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/download
3. Need a wireless bridge to extent the number of available ethernet ports?
Using DD-WRT, you can turn your old router into virtually any wireless/wired networking device. Here's a few options available under DD-WRT:
Access Point / Switch
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers, with wired connections between routers, or turn a wired port on an existing network into a Wireless Access Point. All computers will be on the same network segment, and will be able to see one another in Windows Network.
Wireless Access Point - Extend Wi-Fi & LAN
(Requires physical ethernet connection between routers)
Switch - Similar config as WAP, but radio disabled (accepts only wired connections)
Repeater / Repeater Bridge
Extend the Wireless access area using a second router. Second router does not need any wired connections.
Repeater Bridge: A wireless repeater with DHCP & NAT disabled, clients on same subnet as host AP (primary router). That is, all computers can see one another in Windows Network.
Repeater: A wireless repeater with DHCP & NAT enabled, clients on different subnet from host AP (primary router). Computers connected to one router can not see computers connected to other routers in Windows Network.
Universal Wireless Repeater: Uses a program/script called AutoAP to keep a connection to the nearest/best host AP.
Client / Client Bridge
Connect two wired networks using a WiFi link.
Wireless Bridge: Join two wired networks by two Wireless routers building a bridge. All computers can see one another in Windows Network.
Client Bridged: (simplified instructions for a wireless bridge)
Client Mode: Join two wired networks by two Wireless routers (unbridged). Computers on one wired network can not see computers on other wired network in Windows Network.
WDS
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers. Extra routers does not need any wired connections. WDS is a mesh network.
WDS Linked router network
WDS Point To Point (P2P)
OLSR
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers. Extra routers does not need any wired connections. Use several ISP (Internet) connections. OLSR is a mesh network.
Source: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linking_Routers
4. Once your done, use a testing program such as iPerf to ensure packet loss is low and throughput is high:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/iperf/
For a compiled EXE for windows, look here: http://linhost.info/2010/02/iperf-on-windows/
This is important since a wireless survey tool will only detect other wireless networks. You really need something to test real world performance becuase things like microwave ovens, cordless phone and other non-wifi devices can and will impact your bandwidth. This is a great and free alternative to buying an expensive spectrum analyzer.
If you're like me, you probably have several devices networked in your home (ip based cameras, serial port servers, ir controllers etc...) and some may be wireless B or G (such as the new global cache wifi based controllers or one of the many wireless ip based caameras available).
In the past, I've bought several routers, but was always disappointed by each in terms of wireless reliablity. Some routers, such as the Linksys/Cisco E3000 that I tried, would even drop or experience a large slow down when using ethernet cable! I also tried two high end routers last year made by D-Link, only to return both of them for dropped connections.
As it turns out, there are ways to greatly enhance consumer grade router reliability. Here are some tricks I learned and have verified to work over the last month after running speed tests each day and even leaving my HA webpage open on each machine to see if the connection would drop.
1. Don't rely on off the shelf firmware, pick a well known router and use an open source firmware that supports it such as dd-wrt:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/
For example, I had numerous slow downs when using the new E3000 router by Linksys. My internet speed would frequently drop from 2-3Mbits/sec to only 100kbits/second! To fix the speed issue, I'd have to reboot the router twice a week. It wasn't until I discovered a firmware for it under a support thread (see dd-wrt's forum) that this problem was fixed for good. I've been running DD-WRT on the router ever since and it's never dropped speed.
The old router (the one the E3000 replaced) would constantly drop the internet connection entirely; it was a Linksys WRT120N. Before retiring it, the WAN connection became so bad it would drop once per day! After my success with DD-WRT on the E3000, I installed a mature DD-WRT firmware on it and the connection ran fine! I only disconnected the updated 120N to place the E3000 back in service as it has gigabit LAN, but the 120N ran better than it ever had using DD-WRT.
2. If you must use wireless for whatever reason and live in a condo or congested area, use a free survey tool to see what channel others are on and pick a free channel.
I found this greatly increased my wireless connection to where it never drops. This is the free tool I use since it's supported under Windows 7 and also gives a 5GHz survey is inSSider (also opensource):
http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/download
3. Need a wireless bridge to extent the number of available ethernet ports?
Using DD-WRT, you can turn your old router into virtually any wireless/wired networking device. Here's a few options available under DD-WRT:
Access Point / Switch
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers, with wired connections between routers, or turn a wired port on an existing network into a Wireless Access Point. All computers will be on the same network segment, and will be able to see one another in Windows Network.
Wireless Access Point - Extend Wi-Fi & LAN
(Requires physical ethernet connection between routers)
Switch - Similar config as WAP, but radio disabled (accepts only wired connections)
Repeater / Repeater Bridge
Extend the Wireless access area using a second router. Second router does not need any wired connections.
Repeater Bridge: A wireless repeater with DHCP & NAT disabled, clients on same subnet as host AP (primary router). That is, all computers can see one another in Windows Network.
Repeater: A wireless repeater with DHCP & NAT enabled, clients on different subnet from host AP (primary router). Computers connected to one router can not see computers connected to other routers in Windows Network.
Universal Wireless Repeater: Uses a program/script called AutoAP to keep a connection to the nearest/best host AP.
Client / Client Bridge
Connect two wired networks using a WiFi link.
Wireless Bridge: Join two wired networks by two Wireless routers building a bridge. All computers can see one another in Windows Network.
Client Bridged: (simplified instructions for a wireless bridge)
Client Mode: Join two wired networks by two Wireless routers (unbridged). Computers on one wired network can not see computers on other wired network in Windows Network.
WDS
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers. Extra routers does not need any wired connections. WDS is a mesh network.
WDS Linked router network
WDS Point To Point (P2P)
OLSR
Extend the Wireless access area using more routers. Extra routers does not need any wired connections. Use several ISP (Internet) connections. OLSR is a mesh network.
Source: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linking_Routers
4. Once your done, use a testing program such as iPerf to ensure packet loss is low and throughput is high:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/iperf/
For a compiled EXE for windows, look here: http://linhost.info/2010/02/iperf-on-windows/
This is important since a wireless survey tool will only detect other wireless networks. You really need something to test real world performance becuase things like microwave ovens, cordless phone and other non-wifi devices can and will impact your bandwidth. This is a great and free alternative to buying an expensive spectrum analyzer.
Does tomato work on the newer Linksys wireless N routers (WRT610N, E3000 etc...)?
