With regard to the pricing table in the prior post:
- Folks that aren't fortunate to have the starter kit will already be paying $500 more for the RR2 plus $100 for the bridge (unless you go the RR2 select route) vs. sub-$50 for the caseta hub
- Comparing a caseta non-dimming switch PD-5S to RRD-2ANF isn't the same since 2ANF is multi speed. you can use 8ANS for single speed fan control
- The PICO-WBX is just the bracket. you also have to buy the pico remote. Additionally, if you don't want to buy an RD-RD, you could also use Picos for the remote switches. Not only would the pricing be the same, but the picos for caseta and RR2 are actually the same devices so you can use for either/or.
- The comment about being double the price is true though.
I bought all my RR2 stuff off ebay. prices for RR2 used are actually similar to used Caseta since caseta is newer and more popular among DIY.
I'm already up to almost 100 devices and I only have 2 motion sensors and no shades.
My deciding factors between the two were:
- I don't like the tiny buttons of Caseta. Unfortunately I still have a few Picos for cheap scene controllers (but they could be changed to 2 button Picos).
- I like the RR2 multi button engraved keypads. They look very nice and have a lot more scene control options than Picos including LED feedback so, for example, I can tell from my bedroom if the garage light is on.
- Picos on Caseta are really just single dimmer remote switches. On RR2 they can be programmed as scene controllers down to the button level. You can integrate Caseta with Vera to get button press commands, but the pico still needs to connect to a dimmer to work.
- Grafik Eye QS. These weren't a consideration but now that I have them they are great. They can also be used for Homeworks if you ever upgrade. The dimmers would all have to be swapped though.
As far as Lutron LED compatibility, their "score cards" are very conservative. I have LEDs on RD-6D dimmers (the non-LED dimmers) and they work most of the time even though Lutron says not to use them. By default, I start with 6D and change the bulbs if I get buzzing or flickering. If that doesn't work, only then do I switch to a RRD-6NA or RRD-10ND.
I do use the Elk integration for conditional logic. It's more reliable than my Vera. The RR2 system has a time clock but I use Elk for timed events. It also allows control of RR2 via the lighting functions in the Elk. If you already have an Elk, I would recommend the M1XSLU even if you use Smarthings, Vera or Homeseer.
I started out with 3 sets of Caseta for testing. Both systems work great with Amazon Echo. Caseta is nice but not as full featured as RR2. If you end up using a lot of voice control, the tiny buttons are less of an issue.
Oh, and I used to have a bunch of z wave stuff. It was never reliable enough on by Vera. I think I had too many devices. With less devices or with homeseer, I got faster response, but it's not a solid as Lutron. I still use some leftover z wave stuff for christmas lights. I think my vera runs better without having to handle all the z wave traffic too.
