ZWave toggle switches

[mdonovan]

Right now I'm struggling with trying to update my VRC0P. I believe updating it is uploading the network configuration, but when I select Update controller it just immediately comes back and says it can't. I'm using the Leviton software, and it's not very helpful with it's error messages. I'm using Elve and it's not able to talk to the vcr0p so I'm guessing maybe it's because of not updating the vcr0p. I found some forum posts on the Elve forums but they were not helpful. I wish the forums were more helpful there, but I digress...
 
Matt

 

[drvnbysound]

Check the videos provided by Elk on YouTube. They do a decent job of stepping through the Zwave network setup as it relates to their M1XSLZW:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF6ikgmWizE

 

[mdonovan]

Thanks. I'll watch this when I get home. If I continue to struggle with Elve and the VRC0P I may get the elk adapter and run it off there. I try to keep the elk purely for security and nothing else, but if I can't get it to work with Elve I'll do that. Others say the VRC0P works just fine with Elve, so it's probably a newbie mistake I'm making.
 
Matt

 

[wkearney99]

Aren't most automated toggle switches just a smaller button?  I don't recall any of them being actual operable toggles.  As in, not ones that actually moved their position based on remote control.  Which ends up being annoying because you can't actually depend on their up/down position actually indicating anything over time.  To say nothing of the problem of manually setting a dim level locally.
 
So short of just using a smaller wall plate opening they're really no different that Decora sized paddles.  I can see where someone might want to avoid being stuck with just white or ivory, but with RA2 there's dozens of color selections.  Which, granted, doesn't apply to the z-wave situation.

 

[mdonovan]

Watching that video was a big help. I followed what it said and my network is set up. Still can't get Elve to talk to it, but the network is set up. Thanks for posting that!
 
Matt

 

[mdonovan]

Aren't most automated toggle switches just a smaller button?  I don't recall any of them being actual operable toggles.  As in, not ones that actually moved their position based on remote control.  Which ends up being annoying because you can't actually depend on their up/down position actually indicating anything over time.  To say nothing of the problem of manually setting a dim level locally.
 
So short of just using a smaller wall plate opening they're really no different that Decora sized paddles.  I can see where someone might want to avoid being stuck with just white or ivory, but with RA2 there's dozens of color selections.  Which, granted, doesn't apply to the z-wave situation.

My main reason for the toggles, besides keeping the older style switches, is I have multiple switches in a single box and those are connected to 3 way switches in another box, and some of those switches are connected to 3 way switches in another box still, so it gets really expensive to put out enough $$$ to convert every switch that I need to in one shot. I may end up doing that, but not for a while, and only if I have to.
 
Matt

 

[fcwilt]

My main reason for the toggles, besides keeping the older style switches, is I have multiple switches in a single box and those are connected to 3 way switches in another box, and some of those switches are connected to 3 way switches in another box still, so it gets really expensive to put out enough $$$ to convert every switch that I need to in one shot. I may end up doing that, but not for a while, and only if I have to.
 
Matt

 
Well one possibility would be to go with typical Z-Wave paddle switches in a few places AND replace the existing toggle switches, in the same box, with regular Decora style switches ($2 to $4) .
 
Yes, as you added more Z-Wave switches, you would end up tossing the regular Decora switches (or maybe dump all of them on e-bay when you are done) BUT it would allow you to move ahead a step at a time.
 
That's my suggestion.

 

[ddennerline]

The reason that paddle (or rocker) switches are not used for Z-Wave is switch can be remotely toggled on/off. The rocker on/off would be confusing if a remote controller toggled the load. The rocker would be located in wrong position.
 
If you don’t want to spend $$$, then you can still change out all your switches so they all match. The non-automated version of Vizia+ switches are much cheaper. I have a mixture of Z-Wave and non-Z-Wave Vizia+ (VPS15-1LX) switches.
Also, the three way Z-Wave slave is about same cost as a fancy switch you would find in big box stores.

 

[drvnbysound]

Well one possibility would be to go with typical Z-Wave paddle switches in a few places AND replace the existing toggle switches, in the same box, with regular Decora style switches ($2 to $4) .
 
Yes, as you added more Z-Wave switches, you would end up tossing the regular Decora switches (or maybe dump all of them on e-bay when you are done) BUT it would allow you to move ahead a step at a time.
 
That's my suggestion.

 
That's exactly what I did. I bought the 10-pack for ~$16:
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-Quiet-Switch-10-Pack-White-M32-05601-2WM/202204204?N=5yc1vZc33wZwcZ1z0xamw

 

[wkearney99]

I don't know how readily most automated dimmers will work without matching slave dimmer.  I think it's possible with some switches but you're potentially asking for trouble.  That and an automated dimmer slave will also be able to control the dimming level.  This is important because the dimmer usually must be placed where the load to the lighting is wired.  This may not be the place where you'd expect, or want.  With matching dimmers & slaves you get control at all locations without issue.
 
That and when opening up boxes you want to avoid going in there repeatedly.  Wire doesn't take kindly to being bent around a lot and you DO NOT want to end up breaking it.  So it's probably a good plan to change everything in a box all at once.  Budget around that accordingly.
 
This ties into the WAF (wife acceptance factor).  Spouses don't typically take well to projects that screw around with lighting and wiring.  It's best to have a plan and implement it in ways that won't raise spousal ire and frustration.  Nothing sets a project back like the rest of the folks getting ticked off about it.
 
I know it's tempting to approach it piece-meal.  I tried that with our old house and it ended up being a hassle.  Too much fiddling with wires, not an even number of things automated, etc.