4 way switch with UPB switches

[nexus99]

My next goal is to replace the switches in my hall. They are in a 4 way switch controlling all the lights in the hallway. Is the appropraite way to wire these to use 1 UPB dimmer and 3 aux switches?

If it matters i will be using HAI swtiches.

So, as a guess... can I replace one switch with a dimmer and then in the other 3 switch locations just pull out the old switches and connect the hot wires and neutrals? I'd then just mount the auxillary switches in those spots?

Thanks in advance.

 

[drozwood90]

My next goal is to replace the switches in my hall. They are in a 4 way switch controlling all the lights in the hallway. Is the appropraite way to wire these to use 1 UPB dimmer and 3 aux switches?

If it matters i will be using HAI swtiches.

So, as a guess... can I replace one switch with a dimmer and then in the other 3 switch locations just pull out the old switches and connect the hot wires and neutrals? I'd then just mount the auxillary switches in those spots?

Thanks in advance.

I have multiple 3-way and one 4-way in my house.

I just put 3 actual switches in. One runs the load. The others just communicated through a link I made.

Very simple.

--Dan

 

[fcwilt]

My next goal is to replace the switches in my hall. They are in a 4 way switch controlling all the lights in the hallway. Is the appropraite way to wire these to use 1 UPB dimmer and 3 aux switches?

If it matters i will be using HAI swtiches.

So, as a guess... can I replace one switch with a dimmer and then in the other 3 switch locations just pull out the old switches and connect the hot wires and neutrals? I'd then just mount the auxillary switches in those spots?

Thanks in advance.

Well I would wire them according to the HAI instructions. You need to use one of your existing "hots" (red or black typically) to carry the control signal from the aux switch to the dimmer.

You can also just install 4 dimmers and not connect anything to the load wire of the 3 in the "aux" locations. These "aux" switches can then be programmed to control the dimmer connected to the load.

 

[dougmeredith]

I have multiple 3-way and one 4-way in my house.

I just put 3 actual switches in. One runs the load. The others just communicated through a link I made.

I did the same. I didn't buy any of the dedicated remotes.

Doug

 

[hucker]

I have multiple 3-way and one 4-way in my house.

I just put 3 actual switches in. One runs the load. The others just communicated through a link I made.

I did the same. I didn't buy any of the dedicated remotes.

Doug

I also did not use any slave switches. My upstairs hall has 4 switches to control a single load. One of the switches actually controls an exterior light (that I added after the house was done). For me when doing the house there were 3 or four locations where I could have used USR's. I chose not to so I would have lots of flexibility in the future. Thus far I've been pretty happy with that choice because I have been in and out of Upstart many times tweaking where things are controlled from, adding lights etc.

 

[benze]

I have multiple 3-way and one 4-way in my house.

I just put 3 actual switches in. One runs the load. The others just communicated through a link I made.

I did the same. I didn't buy any of the dedicated remotes.

Doug

So do I understand you correctly that you have 3 full UPB switches on the circuit (ie: 3 x 75$/switch)? When you the others just communicated through a link I made, I assume that link is meant to be a virtual link using upstart?

Thanks for the info!

Eric

 

[drozwood90]

I have multiple 3-way and one 4-way in my house.

I just put 3 actual switches in. One runs the load. The others just communicated through a link I made.

I did the same. I didn't buy any of the dedicated remotes.

Doug

So do I understand you correctly that you have 3 full UPB switches on the circuit (ie: 3 x 75$/switch)? When you the others just communicated through a link I made, I assume that link is meant to be a virtual link using upstart?

Thanks for the info!

Eric

Yes

 

[Deephaven]

How do you get the LED's on the switches to follow the "linked" load when you don't use a slave switch.

I currently used 2 SW-7's (Web Mtn) on each end of my 3 way. The "slave" end which has no load connected is always lit up green. I couldn't figure out how to make it change in Upstart either, but would assume this is possible.

*if not, do the slave switches follow the LED's with their associated light?

 

[drozwood90]

I just have ALL the switches turn on / off based on the link. They are all configured to do the same thing with the LED.

Just wire-nut and TAPE (can't stress that part enough) each of the loads in the "traveler" or "slave" switches.

Then you need only have HOT and Neutral in the other boxes.

--Dan