A new idea?

damage said:
anybody know how to modify the ds10a so it reports in more frequently? is there a 555 timer or something like that in it? i rechecked my logs & the sensors report in about every 54 minutes. i'd like to halve that down to 27 minutes for the sensors in my car.
Actually if you look at my Car Monitor How-to you will see it uses a 555 timer circuit that could easily be modified for a DSA-10 application.

Hmmm, wonder if a market will exist using a DSA-10 in that How-to instead of a Palm Pad hack. Same principle, but you would have the unique code of a DSA-10.

Anyone want to donate a W800 unit and a DSA-10 so I can turn this into a product? :P
 
I can send you a DS10A unit, I got 6 or so left, and I am not using them right away, don't have a spare W800 tho :P
 
Slightly OT...

Anyone ever decode the DS10A data that is sent occasionally? What can you tell from it? Is there a bit in there that says if the batteries are low?
 
Nice find! :P

I'll have to ask Dave if he knows the codes that the W800 spits out when these report.

Thanks,
Tony
 
BSR I would also be willing to share a DS10A with you. I also, do not have an extra W800 however to offer.

The bottom line though, with a DS10A and a 12v relay, I wouldnt think that too much else would be required for setup. Tied into a realy with the ignition, or with the brake lights as Electron suggested should be all that would be required.

With the brake lights, it really would not know when the car was home or leaving, without a creative bit of scripting. As when you let off the brake an off would be sent. Also the brake can be pressed multiple times when either comming home or leaving.

With the ignition being used, when the car is started, it would simply send an on signal, and an off when the car is turned off. As a fallback, the DS10A will send out the status every..... 56 minutes, I beleive someone said, thus "pinging" the vehicle.

As for problems with a car starting, such as a cold morning or a clasic car, the easy answer would be a simple condition in the event to not retrigger for 5 minutes.

To make this really rock solid, it could be set up that when an on or off is seen, to set a virtual device to this value every time that it is seen. Then 5 minutes later check to see if it is set to on or off. If it is set as on, then the car sucessfully was started. If it was set to off, then the car was attempted to be started, but didnt work. (Have HomeSeer call a Taxi, your spouse or AAA for you at this point ;) ) Or if another vechile is "sensed" as being home, have the whole house announce that you need a ride hehehehe.

An easier way is to just set a virtual device with whatever the last command was. Say you tried to start the car 3 times and it then started (on,off,on,off,on), the last command seen was an on, meaning the car was started successfully. If you try multiple times and give up (on,off,on,off,on,off), the last command seen was an off, and you know the car is still at home, as it couldnt leave with the ignition off.

Getting a little more creative with this information, you could monitor how difficult a vehicle is to start over time, and even have HS suggest maintenance, or even replacement :)

"But honey! My computer TOLD me to get a new truck!" hahahh

seriously, my DS10A's should be here in a couple days, and I am going to give this a try and see how well it works. I am not really good at building things with parts, so can anyone suggest a Rat Shack part# for a relay? I did a search on their site for 12v relay and came up with dozens! It needs to be able to accept 12v & the amp's that a car battery puts out without frying it. I do have a Fluke digital Multimeter and can easily see what wire becomes hot when the ignition is turned on. I will test it out and try different events/scripts to see how accurate I can make it. I will post any finding here on the board.
 
The DS10A sends out that signal every 90 minutes I believe (did a quick google, but might be wrong), which makes it useless. If you just use the accessory wire to detect when the car is running, then you run into the problem that you might miss the on/off code due to RF interference, which is why I suggest using the brakes if you want to do it the cheap way.

The system BSR designed is rock solid, I tested it, I just have to permanently install it, probably sometime this weekend.
 
John:

You have great ideas! What is in that water in West Palm Beach?

Just want to mention a couple of things.

First, a relay will only draw current required for tripping "its" own coil. When you look at a relay, look at its "coil" resistance, then you can calculate the current it draws by using the classic V=I*R equation. So just take 12 divided by resistance and that will be the currrent.

I'll try to find a relay from Jameco for you.

Second, you really have to be careful when adding components to a vehicle, especially if you are coming off the battery. Make sure you use an "in-line" fuse between your accessory (key on) source and the relay coil. Place the fuse as close to the source as possible.

So I imagine with the DSA10's you can "level detect" as I do with my magnet door and window sensors for "switched to on" and "switched to off" trigger detection. You can use these triggers combined with your methodology above.

Another approach is to have the car repeat the signal every couple of seconds, so it is sure to check the car's "approach", then send an OFF signal when the car is switched off. This was another advantage of using the palm pad because I could constantly send an "ON" signal every couple of seconds without an "OFF" signal sent.

That would not be possible with a DSA10 because I would have to turn the relay on and off, thus sending an off signal, but this methodology doesn't seem to be required for everyone. I'm just wondering if you might get a "missed" trigger if you only trigger the unit once when the car is turned off.

Lots to think about, wish I had a W800 unit, hehe ;)
 
John:

HERE is a relay I would suggest using. It uses spade lugs so you can just crimp wires into those lugs so no soldering is required, plus the lugs are concealed so they will not short to anything.

I hate Radio Shack, they really don't stock electronic parts anymore and are always out of what you want. I prefer just ordering components off the internet instead.

You can use THESE crimp lugs (hopefully they will fit, if not just take the relay into a Rat Shack to match ones that will).

It has a 155 ohm coil so it will draw 0.08 amps. I would use an in-line fuse holder and fuse it to 1/4 amp.

You can use THIS in-line fuse holder with THIS fuse.

The relay is a "single pole, double throw", which means it has a "swinger" C which will make contact with the "normally closed" or NC contact. When the relay is turned on, this swinger will then make contact with the "normally open" or NO contact.

So if you can get to the contact wires for the DSA10, you would just wire them to the C and the NO contacts of the relay, and the COIL to the 12 volt source (using the fuse holder).

Hope this helps.

BSR
 
Ya know,

If you REALLY wanted to keep this simple, especially for just testing this concept out, why not just use the DSA-10 in its native configuration and monitor the car's door, gear shift, or some other object that gets moved for a first run test?

Also I re-read your post and most newer cars have an "Accessory" terminal for installing an after-market radio already available.
 
the old door/window sensors check in every 97 mins or so. the ds10a checks in about every 3266 seconds or 54 mins. opened one up when i got home last night. there's no 555 timer (that'd make it too expensive ;) )
 
why not just use a cigarette lighter DC adapter to power the relay to do a quick trial? no snipping of wires, etc. if that works, then you can solder a 2nd cigarette lighter socket to the back of the original one, hide it up inside your dash (or wherever the original socket is) along w/ the DC adapter, relay & ds10a?
 
damage said:
the old door/window sensors check in every 97 mins or so. the ds10a checks in about every 3266 seconds or 54 mins. opened one up when i got home last night. there's no 555 timer (that'd make it too expensive :P )
Can you get to a set of contacts that, when shorted and opened, sends a signal to the W800 unit?

EDIT: Never mind, I just looked at a DSA-10 picture and didn't realize the wires were brought external to the magnet sensor.

I am ordering a W800 and DSA-10 as we speak :) ;)
 
BraveSirRobbin said:
Can you get to a set of contacts that, when shorted and opened, sends a signal to the W800 unit?
there is a "test" button that will cause the ds10a to send an open signal when pressed & a close signal when released. i'm sure the contacts can be reached on the back of the pcb.
 
BraveSirRobbin said:
damage said:
the old door/window sensors check in every 97 mins or so. the ds10a checks in about every 3266 seconds or 54 mins. opened one up when i got home last night. there's no 555 timer (that'd make it too expensive :P )
Can you get to a set of contacts that, when shorted and opened, sends a signal to the W800 unit?

EDIT: Never mind, I just looked at a DSA-10 picture and didn't realize the wires were brought external to the magnet sensor.

I am ordering a W800 and DSA-10 as we speak :P ;)
I was just typing a response and then saw that you edited your post.

So instead of what I was going to post, I'll say "Took you long enough." :)
 
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