Anyone have ideas for dealing with tons of wall warts in security cabinet

Good point on the fuse vs PTC issue. Agreed, the PD9 is not the best design in all applications. Sometimes a real fuse is required especially if the current draw is greater than 400ma.

The PD9 is great in the situation where you have numerous device of low current and using the same voltage. The PD9 can operate between 6 and 30 volts AC or DC. Motion detectors and glass break detectors are excellent candidates for the PD9 because they all use 12vdc and have a typical current draw of less than 50ma. Plus the PD9 offers a clean way of terminating the power leads of these external devices. Instead of 'wire-wrapping' them together. In the greater percentage of the time, my voltage requirement for external devices has been 12vdc. I have run across other voltages a few times. And yes this is problem with all those power supplies, aka bricks.

Now an audio amp that needs 2A is out-of-the-range of the PD9 and probably needs its own power supply.

And now I am seeing more devices that have a 5vdc brick. So a separate 5 volt distribution system would be nice. But I really do not have a need for that, right now that is.

OnQ/Legrand/Grayfox had a great solution to power distribution in their structured wiring enclosure modules. Most of their modules operated at 12vdc. Some at 15v. They had a power distribution module(s) with short low-voltage jumpers that would go to the individual modules.

As far as 110vac distribution, I also include a AC strip like the Channel Vision C-0702 or similar in my installation. Plus have the electrician install an AC outlet in the bottom of the Leviton can. Most of the time I will also install a separate 14 enclosure just for the AC power cords/bricks/plugs.

The best advice at this point is put in an enclosure that is twice the size of what you think you may need, or twice the number of enclosures.
 
I think Channel Vision had the cheapie power strip.

In the case of a 15V output, usually, although not a recommended practice for most, a supply like those from Altronix, has a trimpot on them to compensate for cabling or tighter voltage requirements, very easy to adjust into the suitable range. In the case of a 5V, the same can be done if you have a suitable 6V supply. Not as elegant as a OEM solution for the voltage with jumpers out of the box, but it is effective, reliable and very easy to accomplish.
 
Ehh, my current power strip works better for the wall-warts that I have; the way the Channel Vision's receptacles are turned I'd only be able to put maybe 2 of them on there. I currently have 3 installed. There just isn't QUITE enough spacing between each outlet, to add any more. As is, I have one used, skip one, another used, etc. Was hoping for something better... ohh well.
 
I bought the Channel Vision C-0702, but found it useless. There's a plastic housing bump at one end that prevents a wall wart from seating all the way and the outlets are spaced very closely together. At most, you can plug in two wall warts. Stay away -- it's not for wall warts. I'm sure it's fine if you need 110 VAC distribution.

I'm installing a Leviton surge protected outlet at the bottom of my Open House H336 can and am then plugging in a Furman PlugLock Outlet Strip. The Furman is commonly used by musicians who, like security folk, have lots of troublesome wall warts. The Furman was designed specifically with wide outlet spacing to accommodate wallwarts and has hold-down clamps to make sure they don't come out of the socket.

DV016_Jpg_Large_421950.jpg
 
I use an 8 camera power supply to distribute the 12 vdc to different components. It is very clean and each 12 v leg is protected. As for other voltages, the few wall warts on a power strip works fine.
 
I bought the Channel Vision C-0702, but found it useless. There's a plastic housing bump at one end that prevents a wall wart from seating all the way and the outlets are spaced very closely together. At most, you can plug in two wall warts. Stay away -- it's not for wall warts. I'm sure it's fine if you need 110 VAC distribution.

I'm installing a Leviton surge protected outlet at the bottom of my Open House H336 can and am then plugging in a Furman PlugLock Outlet Strip. The Furman is commonly used by musicians who, like security folk, have lots of troublesome wall warts. The Furman was designed specifically with wide outlet spacing to accommodate wallwarts and has hold-down clamps to make sure they don't come out of the socket.

DV016_Jpg_Large_421950.jpg

SteveInNorCal,

I have never seen that Furman power strip before. I like it. It looks like the spacing between the outlets is just right. And I like the angle-bracket-hold-down thingy . Another feature I like is the right angle mounting flanges on the ends so you can mount it in the enclosure from the front of the unit. I hate those power strips that have two holes on the back side where you have to get the spacing just right and you have to screw in the 2 mounting screws with just the right amount of clearance from the surface, and if you don't get the clearance right you have to try it again. I think you get the picture.

With a mounting hole spacing of 11.6 inches, it looks like it will fit OK in a 14 inch enclosure. I think I'll try one on my next installation.


I use an 8 camera power supply to distribute the 12 vdc to different components. It is very clean and each 12 v leg is protected. As for other voltages, the few wall warts on a power strip works fine.

Bucko,

Using a camera power supply is a great idea when you need 12vdc with individual fused outputs. But they are rather large. But if the absolute requirement is for fused supply, then it is what it is.
I always use the ELK PD9 even if there is no requirement for fused or PTC output. If a cable leaves the enclosure that carries 12v, it goes through the PD9. Plus the PD9 is small enough to fit in the corner of the enclosure.

jaybird47
 
SteveInNorCal,

I have never seen that Furman power strip before. I like it. It looks like the spacing between the outlets is just right. And I like the angle-bracket-hold-down thingy . Another feature I like is the right angle mounting flanges on the ends so you can mount it in the enclosure from the front of the unit. I hate those power strips that have two holes on the back side where you have to get the spacing just right and you have to screw in the 2 mounting screws with just the right amount of clearance from the surface, and if you don't get the clearance right you have to try it again. I think you get the picture.

With a mounting hole spacing of 11.6 inches, it looks like it will fit OK in a 14 inch enclosure. I think I'll try one on my next installation.




Bucko,

Using a camera power supply is a great idea when you need 12vdc with individual fused outputs. But they are rather large. But if the absolute requirement is for fused supply, then it is what it is.
I always use the ELK PD9 even if there is no requirement for fused or PTC output. If a cable leaves the enclosure that carries 12v, it goes through the PD9. Plus the PD9 is small enough to fit in the corner of the enclosure.

jaybird47

How noisy are these power supplies? I would be hooking a mixer and amp into them, and don't want to introduce any buzzing/hissing.
 
@jaybird47

I have a server room so space is not a problem. My equipment is all wall mounted and I do not use enclosures. The cam power works well, and I also have 2 P212S's as well.
 
Signal15:
I have not had a problem with noise. But then buzzing/hissing is related to design and load. Use a good product and don't overload it.

bucko:
Oh if space was never an issue, I would like to mount a lot of equipment on the wall. But 9.5 times out of 10, space is an issue and that is why the enclosure was introduced.
My main concern is when it is not designed well from the beginning and the end result is trying to cram 10 pounds of @#%$ into a 4 pound box.
 
Work2Play has the right idea with the ELK PD-9. I ALWAYS include a PD-9 with my installations. Sometimes multiple PD-9s. It helps in making for a neat installation of the 12vdc powered devices.
Plus with its PTC it is cheap insurance. I connect glass break detectors, motion detectors, any external device that needs 12vdc to the PD-9. Then if any installer takes his wire cutters to cut the cable, the PTC opens the circuit and prevents the power supply from shorting out.

JB, what do you use to provide DC power to the PD-9? Elk recommends:
  • Elk-624 - 12 VDC, 1.0 A. Regulated power supply (PCB)/battery charger
  • Elk-P1216 - 12 VDC, 1.5 A. Wall wart switching PS
  • Elk-P412 - 12 VDC, 4.0 A. Switching PS and battery charger in a 12 inch can
 
How noisy are these power supplies? I would be hooking a mixer and amp into them, and don't want to introduce any buzzing/hissing.

The Furman power strip is heavily used by musicians and they are very fussy about hum and buzz. I just ordered one tonight...will let you know.
 
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