Basic ELK-M1 Install Help

I am impressed with the completeness of the ELK-M1 kits that are sent out. All these parts and
jumpers! Not sure what all these are for or where they go. Since I have never installed an M1
before, I have some basic questions that are obvious to those who have put one in. Im dealing with a retro here so some issues are due to the limitations working in a finished house.

I managed to mount the can where the old security system was removed, I mounted and wired in my
keypad and speaker. I also obtained the ELK-SWG clips and have mounted the M1EXP in the can. Now I'm sorting out the wires to the zone contacts. Here are my questions:
  1. Keypad: I only have the one M1KP2 keypad. Do I install this keypad "as shipped"? In other words, I don't add jumpers or need to make any other modification to the keypad, only wire 4 wires to the connector terminals on the ELK-M1.
  2. What is the purpose or an example of using the programable zone option on the keypad?
  3. Contact Zones: It appears most of my zones are normally closed (NC) contacts, with a few normally open (NO). From the skematic, I assume I can wire the NO wires directly to the ELK-M1. But for the NC, do I need to put in a resistor in series? How do most accomplish this? Do I sodder a resistor to the end of one wire right at the ELK patch panel?
  4. LED Indicators: My old system had two exterior key switches with armed/off (red/green) LED indicators. Is there a patch on the ELK M1 that can light-up these LEDs?
 
1. Depends on the data bus configuration and branches.

2. Allows you to tie a door or similar item into the keypad to eliminate a wire run, convenience item.

3. If you're not installing EOLR's then modify the programming appropriately for the ZT and input, either NC or NO. No resistors necessary, unless installing fire.

4. You can do it via the triggers, provided you're not exceeding the current rating, otherwise you will need to install a relay board or standalone low current trigger relays for the LED's. Operation is done via rules. The keyswiches can be tied in for arm/disarm if desired as well.
 
If you are doing a new hardwared install including contacts, relative to (3) do use EOL resistors, you will eventually be glad you did, and they came free with the panel. If you do not have ready access to the contacts (specifically the last contact in each chain) then as mentioned you can just program them not to be used. They help make sure your wiring is correct, do a search for "EOL Resistors" and you will find lots of discussion, but short version is they allow the panel to detect a short or cut wire, e.g. you do a remodel and put a staple through alarm wire.
 
I strongly suggest you view the install videos (google for them, some at Worthington), and read the manual thoroughly.

Installers charge a lot, because there is a lot to learn. It's not rocket surgery, but it will take time. Become an expert, or hire one.

Your family and neighbors will appreciate your hard work.
 
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