Caddx NX-702 with M1 Gold?

[smoov]

I posted this in the Hello World forum, but it might get more notice here:

I have an Elk M1 Gold system and am looking at the Caddx NX-702 - Quik Bridge non-supervised 2-channel receiver for a quick and cheap way of adding wireless for the two doors I can't hard wire. I haven't found anyone using this receiver with the M1, so if anyone has any info on that unit that would be helpful.

I'll be using either Caddx NX-651 - Standard crystal door/window sensors
or Caddx NX-453 - Slim line door/window sensors

I realize there is a specific Elk product for this, ELK-M1XRF2G, but is there any reason why the NX-702 won't work?

Also, looking to add one of the ELK-SL1C strobes, but am unsure how to wire it up to the panel. In the location I want to place it, there is an extra existing 4 conductor, 22 GA, same wire I used for wiring motion and glass breaks. Is that wire suitable?

Thanks!

 

[Steve]

I think Spanky may need to answer this for sure. I know you can use either the Caddx 548 or the Elk Receiver. But in any case I don't think I would use a non supervised system for security. If the sensors are more for HA purposes than it would be ok, but it's one thing to use wireless for security but I would at least used a supervised system so you always know the sensors and batteries are good.

 

[Spanky]

The quick bridge will attach to a zone input on the M1. Supervision is limited, but it will trigger an alarm input into a M1 hardwire zone input.

Supervision includes knowing about missing transmitters, low transmitter battery, and missing or dead RF receivers.

For full supervision, use the GE NX-548e or the ELK M1XRF2G. If using the GE receiver, you will need to load M1 software version 4.5.8 or later. The M1 now comes reloaded with software version 5.1.8 or later which supports the ELK RF receiver.

 

[smoov]

Thanks Spanky.

I think I'll let the NX-702 ride for a while. It is on the main entry/exit door in a retail space, with chime on. We will know right away if it doesn't work. Also, I will plan on replacing it with a more appropriate receiver when I make my next order.

Any wisdom on wiring up the Elk Strobe to the M1? I tried to find any product detail or install instructions, but haven't found any info, other than they are two wire, like a siren.

Thanks!

 

[tmbrown97]

The strobe is a basic 12V strobe - depending on how you have things hooked up and what you hooked up, you have a couple of options...

If you have Output 2 set to voltage AND your current siren + the strobe won't exceed the 1Amp rating of that output. If you're running a speaker on out2, that's not going to work -

Otherwise you need to pick any form of relay (Either Output 3, or something off an M1RB or output relay expander, or even a standalone relay off the M1's voltage outs - whatever you have available, to act as a relay to basically connect the strobe to 12V on trigger. You'll need to power the relay, so either using an external power adapter, power from the M1 if it has room without over-drawing any circuits, or you can even tap off the battery directly (use a fues though) - and use that to power the strobe.

If you need more help with that, give us a little more info on your setup, like what's on Outputs 2 and 3 and if you have any output expanders or anything attached to outputs 7-16, and we'll give you the best info we have.

 

[smoov]

I have 2 PIR's and 2 GB's and the NX-702 on 12VDC Outputs (left side), nothing on Outputs 7-16. Elk-73 on Output 1, nothing on Output 2 or 3. Output 2 has a 2.2k resistor across it.

I was thinking of running the strobe on Output 2, set to voltage, but wasn't sure about which wire to use. I have a 4 conductor solid core, I think 24 GA, wire existing to the location I want the strobe, but can run more if needed.

Thanks again.

 

[tmbrown97]

I think out of habit I'd probably run 18/2 - there's calculators all over the place to validate - but I'd bet 24 would be fine - and if you have 4 conductor, you can combine them if needed (2 wires each to + and -). That should work fine... The only concern might be the supervisory circuit - it maintains a tiny bit of voltage to the output even when off. You could also work around that with a relay if it mattered (Spanky?).

Why no siren on Out2 - you're not using any external sirens? And do you have a resistor on there now to stop the trouble message?

 

[Spanky]

I recomment using Output 3's relay and write a Rule:

Whenever an alarm triggers
Then turn on Output 3

Whenever system is disarmed
Then turnoff Output 3.

Wording is not exact and general. When the alarm triggers the strobe will turn on until the control is disarmed. If you want the strobe to turn off automatically add a time period to the "Then turn on Output 3 for some number of seconds".

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Spanky's suggestion is a good one as it will enable the strobe on an alarm and not turn it off after the siren times out. This way your wife will know that the house had an alarm condition when coming home via viewing the stobe flashing and may elect not to enter or perform other precautionary measures. It really doesn't matter if a stobe is flashing all day/night (not like a siren ).

 

[smoov]

Thanks guys, that is exactly what I wanted to do. Have the strobe run continuously until disarmed. This is for a small retail store, but I will do the same for my home M1 when I eventually get around to installing it. Also going to automate turning on all the lights on alarm and disarm, etc. Fun stuff.

-Ken