Can light upgrades to LED

[MrSpock]

I'm starting to think about upgrading the 6 inch can lights in my home.  Some are 4 pin florescent and some are incandescent.  Over at superbrightLEDs.com I found a good looking retrofit can light, the DLD-WW13W.  Its a dimmable, instant on, warm white unit for $50.  If I replace all of them I have 50 to do, which is $2500.  This unit is super easy to retrofit an incandescent, but florescents look much harder due to the wiring.
 
I'm looking for recommendations on other units people have bought and recommend.  The only thing I don't like about this unit is the price and that the diffuser is not inset at all, almost flush with the ring.  I definitely want warm white, instant on, and dimmable.  I'd also like the diffuser to be inset by about 1 inch to avoid glare when looking up.  For a switch I'll probably be using the HAI/Leviton 35A00-1.
 
I also have 6 outside can lights in the patio and front porch.  The climate is very moderate here in San Diego, so maybe I can get away with an indoor unit.

 

[az1324]

Wow 110W equivalent?  Are you using 100W bulbs now?

 

[MrSpock]

The warm white is 960 lumens, probably closer to 90W.  Really only need 60W equivalent.    With that kind of wattage I'll be dimming it almost all the time.

 

[az1324]

Last week these were on sale for $10 but sold out pretty quickly.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-6-in-White-Recessed-LED-Trim-CER6730WH/203489880

 

[dgage]

I just put 4 of these up in my living room in j-boxes, which isn't a large room (16x13x8) but the lights were so bright at 600 lumens, I ended up setting up my Lutron RadioRa2 Dimmer to 40% as the default.  I put 8 similar ones but 6" in my kitchen last year and they are great and very bright, also purchased from Home Depot.
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Recessed-Soft-White-LED-Can-Disk-Light-E-CE-JB4-600L-27K-E26/203596702

 

[tmbrown97]

I'm in CA too and have the same mix of the fluorescent and incandescent cans...  Just about 2 weeks ago I decided to fix the kitchen...  Since these cans have a ballast up in there and they're missing the base with the screw socket, I had to convert the can.  
 
It ended up being pretty easy to drop the can out of the housing then reach up in to disconnect the electric and release the whip from the box - then I took that to Home Depot and matched it with other New Construction incandescent complete cans.  I then just took the same part from the new fixture (threw out the rest of the parts - felt pretty wasteful but they were only $10/each).  Reconnect the new can (bypassing the ballast at the same time inside the wiring box) then screw the new can back to the housing... All in all about a 10 minute job.  Then I used this bulb:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart-65W-Equivalent-Soft-White-2700K-6-in-Mid-Range-LED-Dimmable-LED-Downlight-ECO-FD6-625L-27K-E26/204412186
 
I found it with traditional CREE packaging, not the EcoSmart brand - but it seems to be the same thing.  They're definitely extremely bright - they dim well and have great color.
 
I have 2 more I need to do in my master suite...

 

[MrSpock]

The 6 inchers mentioned by AZ and W2P both look good.  Each has their advantages.  The CER6730WH is very easy to retrofit, but the diffuser is not inset.  The ECO-FD6-625L-27K-E26 is inset and probably retrofits my incandescents ok, but mechanically it looks to be very difficult to retrofit my florescents. 
 
Some of my florsecents are outdoor and are the ones I want to replace first (picture enclosed).  They are mounted in stucco ceilings and I suspect they have a ballast behind the can since there are 4 wires going to the bulb.  What does it take to change out the can or bypass the ballast?  Doing anything that hurts the stucco is a non-starter with the wife.
 
Thanks guys.
 
 

 

[tmbrown97]

Realistically you need to get to the other side of that can - so whether it's via attic access (mine were 1st floor so not possible) or by getting that can out.  Mine weren't encased in stucco like yours, but they were encased in drywall mud - so I just had to carefully break it away.  The same would be true of your stucco - you'd just want to only knick the edges enough to free the can but not screw up the stucco.  You can see the couple screws in your picture that attach the can to the big frame above it - once you free that can it'll drop straight down and be hanging by a whip to the electrical box that's part of the housing that'll be left behind when you pull the can out.
 
If you can get to the top of that can via any other method and get into the wiring, then you could just replace the whip and bypass the ballast from the electrical box - then just wire in the socket - you don't even attach the socket to anything with the bulb I linked to - you just leave it hanging a little and screw the bulb in, then just push the bulb straight up and it'll hook itself into place.
 
The only drawback with the bulb I listed is that it doesn't have a foam seal or anything - they do sell title 24 air seals for a couple bucks at HD, or many people said they just dab some white caulk around for an absolutely perfect seal (once every 10 years seems like to big deal) - I plan to just caulk the ones I'll put in wet locations but after they've been up there a couple weeks to ensure there are no defective bulbs.  They do say they're wet-location compliant even without the seal IIRC.

 

[MrSpock]

Hey thanks for the detailed info.  I have no attic access in any of my outdoor/stucco cans.  And I hate messing with stucco.  I think I'll need to get some advice from Home Depot or whomever on removal of that can from stucco.  If I screw it up I'll never hear the end of it and other automation tasks will be an uphill battle.

 

[kevkmartin]

Am I missing something here? If the cans are in place and working, why not just screw in LED flood lights and be done with it?

 

[dgage]

Am I missing something here? If the cans are in place and working, why not just screw in LED flood lights and be done with it?

You are.  Take a look at the picture a few posts above.  His are wired through a ballast so it isn't that simple.

 

[tmbrown97]

Any trim ring gives you about a good 1/2" or more of coverage specifically for those edges so there was no reason for the stucco to have gone to the edge of the can anyway except out of general sloppiness (I doubt it's providing a total seal)...   I suppose if it were me and I were overly concerned, I'd figure out a way to buckle/cut the can so I can basically cave it in to the middle reducing the size of the hole - then I'd use a grinder wheel that's meant to grind away concrete and I'd grind the hole big enough... or I'd use a dremel and some time and carefully grind away around the edge.
 
Good luck with HomeDepot - it may take a couple tries.  My neighbor found someone who seemed to understand the concept - I tried and all I got were blank stares - so I just went for it.  My neighbor still hasn't.