Ceiling fan and light control

swaggy

Active Member
I have two rooms that will be getting a combination ceiling fan/light installed soon and I am trying to figure out how to tie them into my OmniPro II. I already use a Leviton VRF01 in another room to control a ceiling fan only from the OPII and it works well. I am aware of dual rocker switches out there (Lutron, SA, etc..) but none that can be integrated into HA (at least not that I could find). The VRF01 is a fan only solution so need something for separate light control other than expanding to a two-gang box and installing a separate switch.

I just came across a Zwave appliance module from Aeon Labs:
http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=4816

There's also a review of it here:
http://www.myhomeserver.com/?page_id=576

This looks like something that might do the trick, assuming it will fit into a single gang box along with a VRF01 (which is somewhat bulky). What do you think?
 
Replying to my own thread

Thinking about this some more, even if this device does allow me to control the light independently of the fan, there would still be no local switch for it unless I expand and add the second switch in a box which is something I wanted to avoid doing in the first place.

Back to searching....
 
I am willing to sacrifice fan speed control for an all in one solution, what do you have in mind?
 
If you have separate wires going from the switch box to the fan, then a Simply Automated US2240 will work. It can handle two loads in a single gang box. In my house all the ceiling lights were wired with an extra wire for a future fan.

If not, the only good way I know of to accomplish it is to change the wiring slightly so that there's a smart switch in the wall that doesn't directly control the load at the light/fan - but instead sends links of some sort; the wiring to the light/fan would be converted to always-on, and you'd put fixture-mount devices up in the fixture for light and fan control from there.
 
You can use an inline module to control the fan and use a regular 240 with a dual rocker faceplate to send the link to the fan and control the light.

I use this setup to control my shower light and fan separately.

You can wire an 1140 in a box just like an in line module. It actually costs less and gives you better protection (like thermal) and load handling.
The 1140 will fit inside a square handy box with the GFCI cover. You could also use a 140 or 240 and won't need a switch plate once it's programmed.
 
If you have separate wires going from the switch box to the fan, then a Simply Automated US2240 will work. It can handle two loads in a single gang box. In my house all the ceiling lights were wired with an extra wire for a future fan.
I do have extra wire to the ceiling box so I like this idea. The only concern is looks like each load on this switch is rated for 550W, would that be enough for the fan?

You can wire an 1140 in a box just like an in line module. It actually costs less and gives you better protection (like thermal) and load handling.
The 1140 will fit inside a square handy box with the GFCI cover. You could also use a 140 or 240 and won't need a switch plate once it's programmed.

To wire the 1140 as an inline module, I would need to expand the box at the switch side? Unless you are suggesting to install it near the ceiling box?

Thanks for all the replies everyone.
 
I do have extra wire to the ceiling box so I like this idea. The only concern is looks like each load on this switch is rated for 550W, would that be enough for the fan?
If you have the wiring there, this is hands down the best way to go.

The specs aren't as easy to find as I'd have expected, but I found the manual for a 52" Hampton Bay fan (Home Depot special) and it uses 11, 32, or 66 watts depending on the speed (L/M/H). For the lights, anything manufactured after January 1st 2009, the max allowable wattage is 190W. Even prior to that, a fixture with 3-4 bulbs, max 60W each, you're talking a max of 240W anyways.

The Simply Automated switches can be set to either dim or to "snap". You can't use "Dim" on a motor load, but "Snap!" is just fine. I have them controlling a couple ceiling fans and bathroom/laundry exhaust fans. Along that topic, I use them on LED's, CFL's, Incandescents, Fans, etc - and I have no glitches whatsoever. None of the flickering/flashing, or other quirks. I even have one running my fireplace (see sig).

AND - as long as you follow the normal HLC standards, it should be fully compatible with the traditional HAI HLC protocol.
 
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