WiFi Smart Ceiling Fan Control and Dimmer Light to Tasmota

Home Assistant does have a Tuya plugin which may work with your switches.  Homeseer also has a Tuya Plugin.  
I have not tried them as I have converted all of my WiFi switches to Tasmota or Espurna and off the cloud.
In the beginning of using WiFi switches (SonOff) I did try the cloud apps and typically when first booting them up and connecting them to the cloud the cloud apps did update the firmware to the devices.  It was always a hit or miss and multiple attempts to update.
Off the main topic....
I personally am not tethered and have never been tethered to my cell phones or any social media and not dependant on any cloud apps for my day to day activities.
That is me.
In the last few years only access my security, automation, CCTV via VPN clients to my VPN server.  (L2TP/IPSEC and OpenVPN).
Just finishing up installation of this combo switch in to a 4 X 4 double gang box with an already installed multiple paddle UPB switch.
1 - carefully trimmed drywall around current double gang metal mudplate and removed it.
2 - installed a plastic double gang mudplate
3 - replaced all wire nut connections with Wago Lever nuts
4 - this box was installed by a mickey mouse electrician.  Electrician drilled a hole through the adjacent stud to hold the switch in place.  That said there is a conduit end in the middle of the 4 X 4 box which makes positioning of two automated switches in the box difficult.  There are two conduits attached to the top of the box.  I tried to push in the middle conduit out a bit with a chistle but could not.  I positioned the two automated switches a bit to the right of the conduit entrance and they fit very tightly.  I do not like the offset and might try again to push the conduit over some.
5 - got the two switches flush mounted and using a Leviton commercial dual gang style cover plate.
I got my pi working and my switch wired up.  Now  I just need to start the process - I will have to follow and see how it works!

The fit is too tight for the cover.  Going to try pushing the conduit out a touch.
The UPB switch is not as deep as the combo light fan switch so I tucked the multiple Wago Lever nuts behind, above and below the UPB switch.  
The UPB double paddle is connected to 2 LED office lamps  (outlets are 1/2 switched at the wall switch) and one is a link to a UPB light module with is connected to a dimmable 12VDC LED transformer on the top of the office bookshelves (floor to almost ceiling shelves) with LED strips.
Will post pics shortly.
I don't think my switch is compatible.  Very disappointing.  Pics here to confirm.
What MFG and model number is the switch?

Remove the ribbon cable carefully.
Power up the board with 3.3VDC and you can update it soldering to RX, TX, Ground, GPIO 0 or use the jig above. It takes all of 5 minutes to do this.
Yes it will be difficult and a PITA.  
DigiBlur has a list of switches that have worked with Tuya-Convert.
Here in house #2 went to using Gosund dimmers which I updated OTA.  Not sure much about using touch to dim the switch.  They are working well with Tasmota.
I did one Gosund regular switch with Espurna.  Rest I installed were Gosund dimmers.
There is a template repository site that I use.  It obviously has the templates available to use, but it also will say if a particular device can be flashed with Tuya Convert (until the devices are shipped with a new firmware that blocks the exploit) and which  devices have to have a serial connection to be flashed.  This information is located in the upper right corner of the screen when you load in a particular device.  Use the search function to find the device you are looking for.
I guess this was a bad experiment for me.  It filled a niche but long term I want to integrate these switches in a total system - not being able to access them is a problem...
I certainly won't remove them, flash them and reinstall.  Thats not viable for me.  The next step will be to replace :(
Here to bring a bit of closure to this post I finished installing newest combo fan switch.
The issue here was one conduit end pushing on the UPB switch and off setting the two switches to the right.
The next steps were to incorporate the combo switch to Home Assistant and Homeseer.
Homeseer was a tad easier than Home Assistant.
This is what I used for the MQTT yaml configuration in Home Assistant.


  - platform: mqtt
    name: "Bedroom Fan"
    state_topic: "stat/treatfan/POWER1"
    command_topic: "cmnd/treatfan/POWER1"
    speed_state_topic: "stat/treatfan/speed"
    speed_command_topic: "cmnd/treatfan/tuyasend4"
    availability_topic: "tele/treatfan/LWT"
    payload_available: "Online"
    payload_not_available: "Offline"    
    payload_on: "ON"
    payload_off: "OFF"
    payload_low_speed: "3,1"
    payload_medium_speed: "3,2"
    payload_high_speed: "3,3"
      - low
      - medium
      - high
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "Bedroom Light"
    state_topic: "stat/treatfan/RESULT"
    value_template: "{{ value_json.POWER2 }}"
    command_topic: "cmnd/treatfan/POWER2"
    availability_topic: "tele/treatfan/LWT"
    brightness_state_topic: "stat/treatfan/RESULT"
    brightness_command_topic: "cmnd/treatfan/Dimmer"
    brightness_scale: 100
    brightness_value_template: "{{ value_json.Dimmer }}"
    payload_on: "ON"
    payload_off: "OFF"
    payload_available: "Online"
    payload_not_available: "Offline"

Working on another wall box which is connected to one ceiling fan and two cans.  Before opening the box thinking this was going to be a simple endeavor.
It is not.  The ceilling fan and two cans are mounted high (> 20 feet).  There is no light kit on the fan.  The multiple wires in the conduit indicate that the light portion of the fan is wired.  The only real way to check though is to look at the wires at the top of the fan base.
Coming in to the box are hot, neutral and a blue wire which I know is connected to the switched single gang outlets switched at another wall switch.
A few of the leads are patch taped.  Might disconnect all of the wires and using a VOM trace them.  


Initial steps ==>

1 - disconnecting can light switch and tracing wires with VOM
2 - disconnecting fan switch and tracing all wires with VOM
3 - removing all wire nuts and replacing with Wago Lever nuts
4 - removing double gang metal mudplate and replacing it with a plastic mud plate

Removed two switches (Fan and cans)

Traced wires and labeled them. It is simpler than it originally looked like.

The blue load wire comes from a wall switch on the opposite side of the room and connects to 6 double gang outlets in the room. I've redone the outlets that I do not want switched.

Day #2
Removing all wire nuts, shortening wires a tag and installing Wago lever nuts.  Note shut off the breaker for this circuit before proceeding if you are uncomfortable doing this or hire an electrician.