Gosund WiFi dimmer replacing firmware

I agree that the Martin Jerry switches don't look "modern".  They could even be called "clunky" with their square button design. They aren't fragile however and their buttons feel solid with good movement.
But the fact that they have the "dimmer" buttons which can be programmed into two other unique buttons in Tasmota is really nice and I've decided that function trumps form in this case.  It means the dimmer switch can have three unique regular switch functions (the main switch, the top dimmer switch and the bottom dimmer switch).  You can even program "long press" functionality to get a total of 6 unique switch functions with these switches.  I don't use long button presses because I think it adds complexity for the family to use - "remember to long press the bottom button to turn on the light" seems like a little much and to be honest, three switch functions are plenty, but it is available.  EDIT - actually I use the long button press to function as the dimmer.  So long pressing the switch (which ever of the three you want to dim) will cause the switch to ramp one way (if it's bright, then it will dim).  If you need to go the other direction, you just long press the button a second time and it will go the other way (if it is dim it will go bright).
Also, you don't have to program the switch to do this.  You can have the single switch function (along with a long press option) and have the dimmer buttons work the dimmer as expected.  You can also get the non-dimmer MJ switches that match the design of the dimmer switches to have a consistent look to all your switches. 
My recent experience with Gosund SW2:
HA: core-2021.12.7  (RPi4)
4x SW2: tasmota-scripting 9.2 with template and script from Blackadder (Sorry!  I hope I got that name right.) All working without complaint.
I upgraded to HA 2022.2.2 and none of the SW2s would come up in HA.
I reverted to the backup prior to 2022.2.2 (back to 2021.12.7)
SW2s came back online.
I chose one of the SW2s and upgraded to tasmota-scripting
Verified the template and script.  There was NO functionality with the switch, manual or through HA.  No click of the relay could be heard.  I could access the switch via the browser and play with the settings but there was no functionality with the light.
As HA wants to use Tasmota 9.2 or greater (sorry, I lost the source in all my research) I believe I need to upgrade my Tasmota in the switches.  The non-scripted .bin is version 9.0 and I've read that some of you are still using it.  I would like to try tasmota-scripting.bin that is newer than 9.2 and not as new as 10.1 but am not sure where to locate them.  The Tasmota site seems to only carry the latest version of 10+.
Once the SW2 became unfunctional, the WF (wife factor) took a hit.  I had to make an emergency purchase of a zigbee dimmer switch to verify it would work well and keep our network in-house without connecting to another country every time we used a device.  But now I've lost the ability to multi-click and other Tasmota features.  The new switched arrived yesterday and was installed.  (HOWEVER....The new switch does not match the style of the rest of the Gosund switches in the house, so the WF is a mixed bag.  Working light=good, wrong style=bad.  :: sigh :: )
I would like to upgrade to HA 2022.2.x.  Does anyone have a working HA 2022 with working SW2s?  If so, what configuration are you using the SW2s?
Thank you!
Here currently using:

HA Versioncore-2022.2.3
With old Firmware 9.X.  It is working fine in HA.
Switching to MJ dimmer switches soon.
What wall switch cover plates are you using for the Martin Jerry switches?  
Historically I have found deep Leviton plates (not jumbo sized).  I cannot find any lately.
Honestly I haven't paid attention to the switch cover plates.  For single switches, I've obviously used the plate that came with the switch.  It's nice that it has a "screwless" design.  However most of my switches are multigang, so I end up having to use a "decora" style switch plate.  I've just grabbed whatever plates were for sale at my local hardware store (Home Depot or Lowes typically).  I know they all have the screws showing, but other than that I haven't noticed any gaps or other design issues when using them.  
Thank you @sic0048.  Typically use standard type Decora wall switch covers and lately using Wago lever wire connectors.
90 + % of the switches in sandbox house are multigang and the MJ switches while sitting flush have a thick plastic face.  I have used a razor blade on the inside of the wall plate to provide more space but it doesn't always help.
I installed 4 of the Tasmota Treatlife combo fan / light switches  a while ago and had no issues with the Decora style covers. Cover plates are much thinner.   With these replaced the metal mudrings and replaced them with plastic mudrings and removed wire nuts and went to using Wago Lever wire connectors.

Never utilize the screwless cover plates as they are all different.
Programmed a couple of MJ dimmers yesterday.  First replacing the GoSund dimmers going baby steps...
About a month ago installed two MJ dimmers and they are doing fine except for the switch covers.
Using the little jig that I purchased from Digi-Blur.  Only thing is that I hold it in place while updating the firmware with my hands as the plastic clamp pushes down on the switches.
Taking the switch before installation to the local big box store to find a deep wall plate for it.
pete_c said:
Taking the switch before installation to the local big box store to find a deep wall plate for it.
Are you talking about the electrical box?
The MJ switches are pretty deep, but I have been able to use the old regular boxes for the vast majority of my switches (and my house is almost 40 years old, so it was constructed long before "deep" boxes were common).  I do have one box that I really need to replace with an extra deep box due to the fact that it is single gang and there are some extra wires coming into the box.  I even have the box already, but have been putting off that project for months now.  I really just need to buckle down and get it done.
Are you talking about the electrical box?
No here have standard single and double gang metal boxes with metal mud plates.
The plastic on the wall switch is thicker than normal and it makes the wall plate not sit flush to the wall.
Tinkering with new dimmer switch which looks like a standard dimmer.

They are being sold unlabeled new openbox for $13.00 USD.
Posted here are pictures of the board front and back side and where you JTAG it. First time I have seen this board.

I used Dupont test connections to JTAG it.

The dimmer switch is known as

1 - Virage Labs VirageDimmer Dimmer (KS-7012)
2 - Hidentech KS-7012 US Smart Lights Switch Dimmer

This is an older model of the dimmer switch. Newer model which is same model number has an LED numeric display in the middle.

It came new and in an unlabeled box.
Update:  16:27 C 
I cannot get any template to work correctly with current Tasmota bin file or posted Virage firmware.  Most likely this is due to the number of switches.  Toggle up and down, toggle, two bottom switches and two slider switches on the side and GPIO assignments and Tuya configuration.

Noticed that wireless keeps disconnecting. Read some where that I should have updated the switch and radio firmware first before going to Tasmota.
Wrote to Digiblur about the switch.  I have never seen one like this.
Update 30th of March, 2022
Updated switch with VirageDimmer firmware found here ==> VirageDimmer 3.2.1
Works now.  There is a HA plugin for the Virage world of automated switches / sensors.  Tried it and it works fine.
Template appears to be incorrect that is posted here ==> Template

Playing in console mode see:
16:17:07 CMD: Module
16:17:07 MQT: stat/VirageDimmer_732AE2/RESULT = {"Module":{"54":"VirageDimmer"}}

16:15:32 CMD: gpio all
16:15:32 MQT: stat/VirageDimmer_732AE2/RESULT = {"GPIO0":{"0":"None"},"GPIO1":{"2272":"Tuya Tx"},"GPIO2":{"0":"None"},"GPIO3":{"2304":"Tuya Rx"},"GPIO4":{"0":"None"},"GPIO5":{"0":"None"},"GPIO9":{"0":"None"},"GPIO10":{"0":"None"},"GPIO12":{"0":"None"},"GPIO13":{"0":"None"},"GPIO14":{"0":"None"},"GPIO15":{"0":"None"},"GPIO16":{"0":"None"},"GPIO17":{"0":"None"}}}

16:29:05 CMD: Status0
16:29:05 MQT: stat/VirageDimmer_732AE2/STATUS = {"Status":{"Module":54,"DeviceName":"VirageDimmer","FriendlyName":["VirageDimmer"],"Topic":"VirageDimmer_732AE2","ButtonTopic":"0","Power":0,"PowerOnState":3,"LedState":1,"LedMask":"FFFF","SaveData":1,"SaveState":1,"SwitchTopic":"0","SwitchMode":[0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0],"ButtonRetain":0,"SwitchRetain":0,"SensorRetain":0,"PowerRetain":0}}

16:32:02 CMD: Template 0
16:32:02 MQT: stat/VirageDimmer_732AE2/RESULT = {"NAME":"VirageDimmer","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,1,1,0,0,1,1,1,1,1,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":54}
Update 30th of March, 2022 2000 c
configured the TuyaMCU for dimming and configured dimming values on the generic (no label) KS-7012.
Read TuyaMCU Configuration
and watch
[youtube] [/youtube]
Steps to do in console for this switch are:
1 - weblog4
2 - TuyaMCU 21,2 - reboot
3- dimming state - manually on dimmer bring up dimming to max and watch Tuya values.  Same for minimum.
I used 

DimmerRange 30,255

Test it and watch the LEDs...
dimmer 20
dimmer 100

Switched over to the Virage Dimmers.  Note these are generic Tuya dimmers...
Gosund Dimmer ===> MJ Dimmer ==> Generic Tuya Dimmer (you can find these now for $10 each in a generic dimmer package).
Helping an automation peer switch over to using Tasmota upgraded devices and Home Assistant.
1 - upgrading Treatlife combo fan / light switches - involves a take apart to JTAG
2 - upgrading tiny Tuya wall modules (4 painless updates) - did 4 of these in 30 minutes.
3 - upgrading new Tuya generic dimmers - involves a take apart to JTAG
Building a new RPi with an HA image on it for peer.
Integration to his alarm panel and Google home devices
He has purchased and configure managed L2/L3 switches and put the wireless (non upgraded) stuff on a separate iOT VLAN.
Using Tasmota he doesn't have to put the Tasmota firmware upgraded switches on a separate VLAN.
Where are you sourcing those Virage switches?  I know you can buy them direct from the company, but they seem to be pretty expensive ($35 CAD) doing it that way.