Cutting Circles in Drywall

[jcrack_corn]

i'm not sure how it can get easier or mor accurate than a rotozip and circle attachment, and pack of fresh bits (about 100 dollar total investment)....

Make sure you get the circle tool very tightly locked down at the adjustment nut (they give a really big knob for this), and make sure you always have a fresh bit (change about every 8-10 circles cut in drywall) --->note, those bits are still good, but you want really fresh ones for circles because it cuts like butter so you dont risk opening up the tool if you are having to force the rotozip through the material (ending up with a spiral instead of circle)...when cutting plywood for outside speakers, change the bit every 2 or 3 circles....

Follow those steps and dont be cheap with bits and you can install lots of speakers in a short amount of time (i did 10, with wiring in 2-3 hours, with attic access)....most of the 2-3 hours was spent marking the drywall in the attic for proper spacing (here's a tip, use a 1/64th or 1/32nd drill bit and drill through drywall from above, then check the location (make sure it ended up in the part of the room you wanted, perspective is skewed from the attic sometimes)..if you need to adjust, the hole wont be visible from the floor and can be fixed with a dab of caulk and dab of paint on fingertip....)

 

[CollinR]

Follow those steps and dont be cheap with bits and you can install lots of speakers in a short amount of time (i did 10, with wiring in 2-3 hours, with attic access)....most of the 2-3 hours was spent marking the drywall in the attic for proper spacing (here's a tip, use a 1/64th or 1/32nd drill bit and drill through drywall from above, then check the location (make sure it ended up in the part of the room you wanted, perspective is skewed from the attic sometimes)..if you need to adjust, the hole wont be visible from the floor and can be fixed with a dab of caulk and dab of paint on fingertip....)

I do that backwards... Straightened metal coat hanger up from below.

Fix many with toothpaste.

 

[JeffCharger]

I can offer a "what NOT to do".....

Don't use a roto-zip without some kind of guidance (like the string or other device). I used mine to cut some holes for outlet boxes in wood panelling. Freehand is not the way to go. These roto-zips seem to have a mind of their own - and they move fast! My lines were a bit wiggley! Fortunately, switch covers cover a lot!

 

[Rustytek]

If you have attic access, use the rotozip/dremel from the top. You can also tape the plastic bag on the bottom to collect the dust. I used this method and it was very clean (except in the attic - sweep into the bag when done.)

 

[Ed Nelson]

So, as I just did this for the first time 2 weeks ago, here are my lessons learned:
1. Hand tools like hack-saws et al are safe and prevent accidents, but take a great deal of time and can be laborious
2. A rotozip is fantastic and cuts the time down to 2-3 mins, but is VERY unforgiving. 9 holes were good, one cause a bit of ceiling damage
3. The one hole, actually set the ground work for my biggest lesson learned which is:

No matter how well you center your speake wire between the beams, sheet rockers can mis-pull the wire through and cause you
to accidently run into a stud. As such, all future homes will leverage speaker frames and I'll have the sheet rockers cut the openings out.

 

[eufreka]

Follow those steps and dont be cheap with bits and you can install lots of speakers in a short amount of time (i did 10, with wiring in 2-3 hours, with attic access)....most of the 2-3 hours was spent marking the drywall in the attic for proper spacing (here's a tip, use a 1/64th or 1/32nd drill bit and drill through drywall from above, then check the location (make sure it ended up in the part of the room you wanted, perspective is skewed from the attic sometimes)..if you need to adjust, the hole wont be visible from the floor and can be fixed with a dab of caulk and dab of paint on fingertip....)

I do that backwards... Straightened metal coat hanger up from below.

Fix many with toothpaste. :huh:

The one great tip I ever got off a cable installer...

Use a length of coax...trim away the shielding to expose several inches of the copper wire...push it up through the drywall from below so just an inch or so of the shielded portion is left hanging from the ceiling...

Then go up in the attic and locate the protruding wire (usually it will push up any loose fiberglass insulation into the air)...if you don't like the location, just pull the wire on through and the shielding falls to the floor...9 times out of 10 people can't locate the hole in the ceiling even if you don't fill it.

This works well for locating stud walls top plates for drops...you can't really mess up the location from up in the attic...