Deadbolt status - door contact instead of plunger?

[dgage]

I've seen several discussions about verifying that a deadbolt is set and the very good suggestion to use a plunger in the hole where the deadbolt goes. But I have also read that plungers, being mechanical, aren't as reliable as a normal door contact. So my question is, can the "wired" end of a door contact be used instead of a plunger and when the deadbolt is set, being metal, it would actually close the circuit? There may be some tweaking of the distance (tolerance) needed but was just wondering if anyone has tried it or whether they see any issues with this. Thanks.

David

 

[gatchel]

Using the deadbolt to make the circuit would be problematic at best (IMHO)... I have heard of people using micro switches and other similar mechanical switches. It usually requires a bit of fabrication and mechanical ability to make it look clean and functional.

 

[RAM]

I have a recessed magnetic door switch embedded in the recess where my deadbolt goes in to. It is connected to a DS10A transmitter. I recessed and cemented a thin rare earth magnet in the end of the deadbolt. Thus I have a non-contect, but very reliable way of monitoring my back door deadbolt status. There's a How-To with pictures on it on the Homesee message board at http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=135018

 

[drvnbysound]

I have a recessed magnetic door switch embedded in the recess where my deadbolt goes in to. It is connected to a DS10A transmitter. I recessed and cemented a thin rare earth magnet in the end of the deadbolt. Thus I have a non-contect, but very reliable way of monitoring my back door deadbolt status. There's a How-To with pictures on it on the Homesee message board at http://board.homesee...ad.php?t=135018

Do you mind sharing the pictures here? I'm not able to view the pictures unless I have an account there... w/ no intention to purchase Homeseer, I really have no reason to register for an account there...

 

[dgage]

I'm attaching the pictures so I hope RAM doesn't mind. I registered just so I could see the photos.

And RAM, that is exactly what I was thinking about doing, well, except for the part about needing the rare earth magnet but makes sense. Thanks for sharing!

So I'm assuming that it has worked without issue.

David

 

[RAM]

I'm attaching the pictures so I hope RAM doesn't mind. I registered just so I could see the photos.
And RAM, that is exactly what I was thinking about doing, well, except for the part about needing the rare earth magnet but makes sense. Thanks for sharing!
So I'm assuming that it has worked without issue.
David

It has been working fine for over 3 years now. I don't think I've even had to replace the DS10A batteries yet.

 

[Del91574]

Keep in mind, you need to know what your deadbolt material is. If it's steel, installing a magnet in it without an insulator is going to be problematic, as the steel compresses the magnetic field, rare earth or not.

 

[tmbrown97]

The contact switch needs a magnet to activate it - so being near metal doesn't do anything... that doesn't "pull" the contact closed... hence the reason you need to embed a magnet in the end of the deadbolt to do what the other end of the recessed contact normally would (house a magnet).

 

[Del91574]

The reed will pull in with the magnet, however if you've ever witnessed an install where someone installed magnets straight into a steel door, it'll work, however at some point, there's going to be an issue at some point, it's the nature of the beast and a common issue, even for some pros.

The correct statement is if the magnet is installed in a ferrous material, the magnetic field is significantly compressed, so while it may work to begin with, it's more a matter of time thing.I've seen where they'll either stop working or there will be falsing problems. That's why they make the 3/4 and 1" recessed magnets and donuts for standard magnets, not to mention the spacers for surface contacts.

It's not because the magnet "draws" to the steel or is weakened by that, it's the steel compresses the magnetic field, same as if you have a sloppy door with recessed contacts, you can increase the gap/pull of the magnets by installing two of them with poles oriented the same way.

GE/UTC has a pretty good application book out there with all sorts of tips/items that are commonly overlooked, although some of the GBD's and similar in it are somewhat dated.

 

[RAM]

All I know is that I'm at 3+ years and it still works fine for me. I don't think I've even had to replace the DS10A's batteries yet.

 

[Photon]

I don't have the depth needed to install either a plunger switch or a reed switch at the end of the deadbolt. I installed a hinged piece of aluminum sheet so that the bolt swings the hinged piece to the top as it enters the pocket. A magnet on the hinged piece closes a reed switch mounted in the top of the bolt pocket in the door jam.

 

[dgage]

Photon - that is very clever and effective I'm sure. Thanks for sharing that alternative...I like it.

 

[Del91574]

Photon, probably could've used a roller plunger and let the bolt push that up also.

 

[tmbrown97]

Photon, probably could've used a roller plunger and let the bolt push that up also.

Now that's not a half-bad idea! I wonder how hard it'd be to squeeze a Micra Plunger into one the jamb :blink: